bobba

Pics for reference: The other two upper arms aren't attached at the moment, but come with it.

Hey guys, I have a bunch of stuff for sale: R32 GTR rear cradle - no diff, shafts, hubs, etc. Just the cradle, and the upper control arms. $150 or nearest offer! R32 GTS-t (Turbo Manual) following parts: Rear side shafts $80 for the pair Rear hubs and surrounds $60 for the pair Diff (Viscous centre is rooted, diff itself works well and is quiet) $50 R32 GTS-t Lower Control Arms $30 for the pair R32 GTS-t Rear original springs with 18 months old Pedders Comfort Gas struts - still in good nick $150 for the pair, or nearest offer! I am in Croydon, Vic. Pick up only! Thanks!

All done! Was a bit more work than we realised but it sorted itself out in the end. A few things we noticed: The GTR hubs have the handbrake crap on them, while the GTS-t ones didn't. So we had to use the GTR surround thingys (the things that the hubs bolt into)... meaning we had to use GTR struts (different bottom end) and lower control arms (bigger ball joint mount thingys) We also had to change the back cover of the diff from the GTS-t one, because they have four holes that are closer together than the GTR's two. I still have no definitive answer as to whether changing the diff yokes means bearing preload etc, but when we did the GTS-t yoke up onto the GTR diff it got tight. So we just didn't do it up as much and all seems fine. The GTR diff is a bloody marvel. I'll never bother with the useless viscous LSD's, there is just no comparison! We changed the cradle bushes at the same time, and getting the old ones out was the biggest prick of a job ever. We ended up using an oxy torch to light them on fire. It WAS worth it in the end - the rear end feels 100 times better. I just need to do the control arm ones now, to get rid of the stupid axle tramp going round left corners! Thanks again for everyone's help and input, and hopefully others can benefit from the outcome! Bobby.

Thanks very much for the advice - I gave Nathan a call, he was a top bloke, gave me lots of advice. I'm going to give it a go this Saturday, I'll let you know how it goes!

Hey, I want to change the silly looking rubber inlet pipe, that goes from the AFM to the turbo. I have the stock air box in (cut out underneath), and want to keep it. Are there metal replacements? Better rubber ones? If it was metal I should be able to get some good cooler spool, yeah? I have ebayed and googled but can't find anything - except those blue silicone ones - any opinions on them anyone? Thanks in advance for any help. Bobby.

Hey guys, After a bit of advice... I want to put an R32 GTR diff into my GTS-t. I looked at changing the whole cradle but don't want to do all that, and have the wheels poking out the guards! I've heard the front yoke can be interchanged with the GTS-t diff, but what about the side stubs? I *think* there are a different number of splines between the two. I know the connection to the half shafts is different. I have a whole GTR rear cradle to play with. My questions are: Can custom ones be made? Can I cut and weld them to make what I want? The half shafts from the GTR are longer - can they be shortened and put in? Is there an easier way to do this? Any other advice? I have no faith in the GTS-t diff, I've been through two and from what I've heard the viscous LSD's are shit. Thanks in advance for any replies. You guys are worth your weight in gold. Bobby.

Is there a way around this?

Thanks for the reply mate, I have the GTR hubs, but not the calipers or rotors. The GTS-T rotors and calipers should fit, shouldn't they? I apparently can swap the diff yoke from mine onto the GTR one... do you know if this is correct? I appreciate your help

Hey guys, I've come across a complete R32 GTR rear cradle (everything but the brakes) and want to know if I can put the diff into my R32 GTS-T. My diff is on the way out (2nd one!!) and I'm fed up with it single spinning! Does anybody know the process for this - do I need to change stub axles, half shafts, etc? I've already looked around this forum and using Google and couldn't get any real info for the R32 GTS-T. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Bobby.

No, it cannot raise the factory limiter, which will still kick in.

Thanks for all the replies and info everyone! After having the bee*r for 6 months I think I have only hit it while driving a few times (apart from intentionally revving it to scare people a few times when I first got it - the novelty of which has worn off, especially due to the stories of dead engines, oil pumps and whatever else!) I figure if I rarely hit it (It's a just-in-case deal now, so I don't accidentally do like 9000rpm and kill my engine) I should be safe... does that sound right to you guys? I have it set to 7500rpm which is pretty near the end of the power band so it's not excessively easy to 'accidentally' hit it... My other option is to reinstate the factory limiter as URAS suggested... the factory chip had one but this new chip doesn't - does anybody know if there is an easy way to 'program' the rev limiter back in? I have a consult cable if that helps... Thanks again!!

U got it backwards mate...

I bought it 4 years ago, dead stock, mint condition. I put the chip in. Everyone else, I found the problem, an aftermarket dump pipe I had installed had a bolt hole in it for a different kind of turbo that hadn't been closed up. The car was running rich due to the leak being before the 02 sensor, which made the bee*r much louder. It's a lot better on the 1st setting now, doesn't sound like it's gonna blow up, as well as the car being faster with a better fuel tune.

Hey guys, Thanks for the feedback. I'm aware they are supposed to make all the noise, but if position 1 sounds like this then position 9 must blow the back half of the car off. I just thought it could be a bit tamer than this. And, as I said, it's chipped and does not have a factory rev limit anymore, so I consider this a safer option than doing 9500rpm by accident! Lol at the maccas / kebab shop. Cheers, Bobby.

ROFL!!!!!

Hey guys, I've chipped my R32 RB20DET and it got rid of the rev limiter. So I got a bee*r powerbuilder (spark cut) and am trying to use that instead. It's a nice unit and works as described, but even on the least 'loud' setting - ie position 1 on the dial, it makes a hell of a bang from the exhaust... Which I'm guessing isn't very nice to the engine / turbo / cat / whatever else. Is there something wrong? Does anyone else have one and it's the same? I'm sure not putting the setting up any further! I'm not sure whether they are just like this, or whether the chipped ECU confuses it etc, so any help / info would really be appreciated. Thanks in advance for any replies Bobby.

I agree, I've done the same for careless driving in court. Vic Legal Aid is free anyway, so it doesn't hurt. Just tell them you had no intention of doing what you did and you shat yourself and it was scary and you've learned your lesson, and they will probably go easy on you. I got 3 points and 150 fine, after doing something pretty stupid.

Thanks mate. The 'English' instructions were a joke with the japanese wire colours!

Hey guys, Chipped my ECU now don't have a rev limiter. I can buy a new Bee *R Rev Limiter on eBay for $280 + Postage, but was wondering if anybody has a s/h one for sale for cheaper? Thanks in advance for any replies! Bobby.

Hey all, In my case this problem was solved by taking apart my ECU, and resoldering all the joints for the connectors to the loom. This isn't a job for the amateur, you are dealing with a very sensitive precision device here... In my opinion, the manufacturer was fairly stingy on the amount of solder used for these important connectors and they are susceptible to cracking thus causing bad or intermittent connections, or altering the amount of resistance measured in the case of sensors. Since doing this a few months ago, my car has not repeated this annoying 'rich+retard' mode.

The car doesn't have to be moving for the pedal to make the calipers press... I lubricated the slides - all fixed! no more noise!

just the back wheels. lol. more seriously, especially in the wet it is amazing how you can be lighting it up and it will limit how sideways the car will go. it feels like someone is pushing you straight from the side. hicas may have a negiative aspect in particular circumstances but as someone who often drives my car pretty hard i say keep it, its more help than hindrance. yes, i've been in an r33 that felt all funny through corners like the hicas was packing up... it was some bushes at the rear can't remember which ones.

Mine does it too (R32 GTS-T)... Always has, never bothered looking into it. A mate assumed it was something taking up a bit of slack somewhere along the braking system.

Update - I can get a castor rod and control arm for $150 Is this a good price? Is it likely to be these that are damaged from hitting a gutter? Thanks... Anyone...

back..... i did try that. got no relevant results.