danielr34

Does this still occur if you leave the drivers door open?

Having done well over 4000 vehicles in my career in this industry I have never blown an airbag or damaged any vehicles components as a result of my test equipment. Over the last few years I rarely use any test equipment for majority of vehicles because all correct connection points are embedded in my memory. Just ask half of Sydney auto electricians and car audio stores, who constantly call me asking for help over the phone when they are stuck on an install. This is all I do 6 days a week.

Forgot to mention that many people talk about hiding the alarm module in hard to get to places, well that is a good practice and will help protect the vehicle against 85% of car thieves. The other fact is most car thieves are 85% brain dead (thats why they steal cars) and would not know how to bypass an alarm if the alarm module dropped and fell on their head! I have seen this first hand. I can bypass a car alarm and start your car and the module can stay exactly where it is, I don't need to find it. We have other ways to reduce the chance of theft which are far more affective than hiding the module alone. We can spend a full day fitting an alarm system and remove the entire dash but who has the money to pay for that. Usually people are crying out for lower prices.

So Johnny, if I look for any wiring that has been heatshrunk then this will help me identify where you have been working, because in my 17 years I can't recall ever seeing much heatshrink being used by any vehicle manufacturer in their wiring looms. When they use heatshrink it is small amounts and can only be found once your remove the origninal manufacturer "electrical tape" (e.g Nissan S15 main harness from ignition has a section where main igntion wire splits into 2 wires, can only be seen when you take off factory tape and conduit). Which is what I use. Question: How do you use heatshrink when connecting indicators, doors, boot, 12V, which should be a t junction connection? Also when using the blowtorch or lighter or heat pen for the heat shrink how do you prevent a fire starting when most connections are in tight awkward and hard to get to places? Just how many cars have you worked on? Ricky, if you have a problem with the installation you should contact the installer and have them sort it out for you, it is their obligation to do so as part of their Duty of Care. Also you should not be so quick to judge the Pros and put them all into the same category. Since 1993 when I first started in the industry I have seen and met many "Pro" installers from all over Sydney and seen their work, yet their is only a handfull (less then 10) of them I would trust with my own car. One of them is Chris Rogers who hasn't lived in Sydney for many years. Speaking of Chris, I know he has probably seen this thread and is having a laugh right about now.......How are you mate? Can we finally put an end to this thread and get on with our lives people.....

Cool and you can have some peace of mind for the security and safety of your car, while keeping the insurance company happy! Have a good weekend people!

Not worth the hassle looking for for as they were never very reliable anyway.

If your looking to insure your car for theft, make sure you buy an approved product that meets the Australian/New Zealand Standards. Most insurers will have a list of approved products. I have seen too many people buy the cheap Ebay alarms and realise later they are not covered for theft with that product. Its not neccessarily the alarm that needs to "look easy" if you don't know the vehicle your working on this is where the installation can come to a halt. This is where experience comes into play. Cheers

My diode protected L.E.D Test light has never caused an issue of any kind Carbon. Sorry, I now realise that I have to be very specific in everything I say. I don't use 5 dollar test lights bud. lol

Easy depends on who your asking..... if thats your Skyline in the pic, very nice! Be careful and if your asking questions such as "Is it easy?" then I cannot help but show some concern for your neat Skyline. Lets just say that an in-expeirenced installation can result in car theft by an in-experienced car thief. I get countless calls to go out and rectify DIY installs each year, usually on the side of the road where the car stalled. Cheers and good luck. P.S If you don't own a test light and a soldering iron then don't even attempt the job.

Yes of course you can track your own vehicle. 2 main types of tracking available are a self monitoring system such as the Mongoose VT404 which is affordable and only other costs after installation are sms costs between you and the car. The other type is usually more expensive and has annual monitoring or subscription costs but offers alot more in terms of datalogging the vehicles events throughout the day and also realtime tracking. Prices vary from state to state.

Ok this is a Dynamco/Cyclops alarm immobiliser system, judging by the remote. Check this page to find your remote and alarm model. http://www.dynamco.com.au/remote_compatibility_chart.php Your welcome....

The Ignition door lock feature or Antihijack feature where doors lock on ignition is not really that affective against car jacking and there are Antihijack systems that will shut your engine down after you have safely exited the vehicle and they have driven off with your car. The Autowatch alarms have this feature built in to their software already. Insurance companies stipulate the "Auto Arming Immobilisers" not 'Auto Arming Alarm". Not to keen on the auto arming alarm feature and in case you leave the keys in the car and the door swings shut and then locks you out. In the last 15 or so years I have only had one customer request this feature.

A brand name would be helpful or at least a photo of the remote. It seems as though the "lock/unlock via ignition" feature has been turned on somehow. If this is the case,it can be easily programmed off, but would need to know the brand of alarm. If there is an aftermarket turbo timer that is seperate to the alarm system, this may explain why the door locks, lock themselves when you turn off the key. They are supposed to unlock only when the key is turned off. which they do, but there is a microsecond of time where the alarm sees the ignition drop out and when the turbo timer kicks in and supplies power to the ignition circuit (to keep the engine running) it is probably at this point where the alarm sees this power supply and then proceeds to lock the doors, which in turn explains the issue where the doors unlock after the timer, time out (the alarm sees the ignition drop out again and unlocks the doors) SOLUTION: turn off the auto lock/unlock feature in the alarm. Some alarm manufacturers call this feature "Antihijack" or "ignition door lock" Cheers,

The reciever is in the drivers door. Remove the drivers door trim you will see 2 modules. The keyless entry module is the one with the antenna. I would recommend an aftermarket keyless entry module that comes with its own remotes or an alarm system which will do the same thing and will at least protect your car at the same time. If your not sure what your doing it is better to ask for more info rather than risk blowing something. Cheers,

The orange wire that they may have been referring to is from the actual head unit and not the car. It seems to me that they may have connected the earth wire (black) from the head unit, to the vehicles illumination wire. This is a common mistake as this wires shows ground (-) when testing it with a test light, but then goes to positive (+) when the parklights are turned on. For safe practice you should connect the earth wire directly to chassis.

Call me, I may be able to help you over the phone to disarm your alarm

Yes good choice

Actually they cannot follow the wires back to the alarm module with the Sanji model. The wires on the keypad just go to +power and -earth and the communication link between the keypad and the keypad immobiliser module is done via these wires. They are from South Africa and so they have already thought of that about 5 years ago. Autowatch have a new version keypad immobiliser which incorporates a numeric remote control which you enter your pin number into and press send, which disarms the miniature immobiliser. The actual immobiliser is so small it can be concealed within a wiring harness.

Cutting the wires may not be the best way to test it. The 378001 Digital Back up battery siren will not trigger if the alarm is disarmed, not only that but if you cut through the siren cable you may short it out and cause more damage. Usually if a siren faulty you can trigger the alarm and with the siren in your hand and still wired in, shake it around and hit it with your hand. If it rattles then its RS. If it starts to work when hitting it while the alarm has been triggered and cuts off again, then there may just be broken connection inside the siren or the internal batteries have exploded and the siren is RS. If everything looks ok then check that it has 12v+ and 12V- at the siren end. You can replace the siren with a normal analogue back up battery siren (key switch on it), which you can probably purchase for around $40 but you would need to program the alarm for "negative siren output" instead of digital siren output which it is now.

Hey, Not too keen on the Viper brand, I need to see it working here in Australia in a number of cars for at least 5 years without a single problem or fault before I put my name behind that brand. As for the Cyclops brand made by Dynamco Pty Ltd, are an Australian company and been in the vehicle security industry for as long as I can remember to me would be a better option. The main things you should look to consider when buying a car alarm for your imported vehicle are: Australian Standards Approved products (to satisfy insurance company guidelines) The brand of product of course (Autowatch, Cyclops, Mongoose recommended) The Price including installation and warranty length/terms Product reliability And the most important is the quality of the overall installation of the product along with the after sales service. Just my opinion, cheers,

Sorry never heard of it before, must not have been a good brand if you can't find any info.

I would not fix the scratches, instead I would make him pay for the costs to have it repaired by a professional or replace the parts with new or as new as possible parts. It is classified as "duty of care", where, while he had possession of the vehicle, it is his duty to care for it and be responsible for any damaged that may occur to it for the duration he has the vehicle. If you fix the damage yourself and then said him the bill, you will not have much luck getting your money back. Take high resolution photos of all scratches fisrtly, then try to resolve the matter with the installer, he has the right to assess the damage and get it fixed for you, at his expense first. If he believes he is not responsible, then I would contact consumer affairs or the Dept of Fair Trading and take the matter further. You are the customer so you have your rights to dispute this matter further and the interests are in your favour.

We would need to know where your place is first.

how old is your battery? you may have a couple of damaged cells. Monitor the voltage while cranking to see what it drops down to. Connect a second battery with jumper leads to see if there is a differance.

If its a Mongoose M80 I then it may be related to the state of the door circuit, call me for further explanation, it will save me writing up a 2 page explanation.