danielr34

If you want to watch DVD's while driving, just connect the handbrake wire directly to ground. (the black wire from the headunit will be the easiest spot) Cheers,

Could have a seized door actuator, if so you will more than likely twist or break your key if you go via the key barrel. Have seen it many times on aftermarket cheap door actuators. You need to detatch the actuator off the locking rod to free up the lock, this is not too easy when you can't open the door! You risk damaging the door trim to do so, try to get at least a stubby phillips head screwdriver inside the door trim to try to loosen the grub screws on the central locking clamp which is holding the 2 rods together, on an R32 they should be running parallel to the road an approx in line with the lock. The main problem is there are 3 screws along the bottom of the door trim which won't allow much movement. Take out the panel with the window switches and try to access the rod from there, even if you can cut the rod with sidecutters will work, but make sure to cut theright rod. Good luck!

See you on Friday, if you are the one who rang me today.

You have answered your own question. Battery power is the most important thing for big bass, your amplifier is going into protect because your battery voltage is dropping below the minimum recquired for the amp to run ie approximately below 10.8V for most amps. Upgrade your battery or install a second battery for maximum results. Battery sugestions: Alco Batteries (thats what I use) Yellow Top Batteries Red top Batteries Odyssey Batteries Look for CCA level (cold cranking amps) 12V 400CCA or higher. P.S It's all about the "BASS!"

Hi Daniel, I'm hearing good things about your installs through the Industry here in Sydney. Keep up the good work mate.

People, The turbo timer software must be turned on (read programming instructions) then (if wired correctly) if the turbo timer is running the alarm must be armed by holding down the arm button for 2-3 sec, this will tell the alarm to arm and also will inhibit the shock sensor until a few seconds after ignition falls away (engine turns off). Also if you found the right door wire, while the alarm is armed with the engine still running, if a door is opened the engine should stall and the alarm should trigger. REMEMBER: turbo timer running = press and hold arm button turbo timer off = press arm button once (like normal) Cheers P.S CH 2 is second channel output which is designed for electric boot release. (not needed in most except for later model V35's and Stagea's) unless you fit an electric DC solonoid in your boot. P.S.S the boot wire is labelled and the bonnet trigger is one of the short wires on the loom labelled -trigger P.S.S.S my only concern with people doing their own installs is for the reputation of car alarms in general. See it may not matter to you bob if your install isn't the best, but if everyone's first install isn't the best that creates problems for us "nobs". You see eventually you will sell your car and it may see another 1 to 5 other owners in its time and it is at this time when these not so good installs start to play up and who has to go out and rescue someone who is stranded because their car won't start...me, I get at least 5 calls a week with people begging me to stop what I'm doing (working) and rush out to go and remove the alarm and by-pass the immobilisers so they can get to work or get home from work. Most of these people will NEVER by a car alarm again because of their experience. That my 2 cents and I'm finished with this thread.

no worries that is a common mistake. Enjoy your ride!

Also check that your dimmer is plugged in. They are normally fitted here in AU at the time of compliance as many imports do not have a dimmer circuit, most of them are done dodgelly. If the dimmer is not plugged in there is an open circuit on the dash lights. Also tell me if the outside park lights are come on and if you here any clicking under the dash when your turn on park lights.

Don't want to sound like a nob "in the industry" but just try to keep the information you share about "security products" on a PM level, so as to not tell the entire world how to do it, especiially in your own vehicle. Even car thieves can sign up with SAU. Cheers and good luck with your personal installs. P.S If you have spent 2 hours looking for your indicator wires, take a risk and spend $2 on a phone call to me and I may tell you the colour codes and where to find them. Leon

lol, the time it took you to write this novel I probably would have finished the entire install...only people "in the industry" would agree, I'm guessing.

Hi, I still think there is a fuse blown, when checking your fuses did you have the park lights on? You need to turn them on first to check for dash light fuses that is the only time they will make your test light turn on. Try this then get back to me... Leon

Dont forget the bonnet switch, I have seen some alarms that have only one input trigger (cheap and nasty ones) and it could be connected to the door circuit. Cheers

sounds like a fire extinguisher may be needed for this installation...lol products are not warranted for for installation errors be careful!

We have a self monitoring GPS Tracking system which works via sms commands and has 2 modes, one mode will trigger off an alarm and send you the GPS coordinates of your vehicle as well as speed (if applicable), the other mode will work as a track only which will send coordinates every hour via sms (more commonly used for fleet monitoring). These modes can be interchanged as easily as an sms. There are no annual fees or charges just the cost of the text messages. We also have a self monitoring GSM Paging system which will also send you an sms when alarm is triggered or when battery voltage is low and with this sytem you can unlock doors via sms and do a remote fuel shutdown via sms. This can also be used to track if using a Telstra or Optus sim card you can track the location of the sim card (Note not as accurate as GPS but approximately within 100m to 200m. Both these systems cost half the price you would pay for most other tracking product and have no monitoring fees! As for Quiktrak I don't think they were ever on a profit they always needed funding and it was just a matter of time. Cheers, Leon

lol... I couldn't have said it better myself Chris.

Hi, If you have had a short cicuit the first thing I would check would be for main power supply to the back of the ignition switch, all fuses need to be tested with ignition and immobiliser disarmed, all fusible links need to be checked particularly mains, ignition mains, battery and since it is a Viper alarm check to see if the immobilser relay is energizing (clicking) with ignition on and not falling away during crank or if unsure just bypass it for the time being, I mean its not like this single immobiliser is going to save your car on its own anyway, lol, if you still get no crank just reply in this thread or email me on my business email, telephone is another option. Cheers and Good Luck, Leon

Hi, What your showing us is an image of your key which has a built torch this is not the remote for your cebtral locking. Chances are it doesn't have keyless entry but it is something which can be added as an aftermarket accessory. Is there a switch on the drivers door armrest which locks/unlocks the doors? And is there an L.E.D on the actual lock plunger that goes up and down when you lock/unlock? Do the locks go up and down quite fast? Or are they quite slow, this will determine if you have electric central locking or vacuum central locking as this is quite common in these VW's. To solve or answer your questiobs more accurately just pm me your phone number and best time/s tocall and I can assist you further. Leon

Use a test light (if possible) to find the illumnation wire (this will show +12V when you turn the headlights on) then insulate it and dont use it. If it is joined together with the earth wires you will blow fuses all day. Dont even use the earth wires from the aol head unit you are better off earthing to the body (chassis) of the car this will also help reduce the chances of engine noise. NOTE the illumination wire will show an earth when the headlights are off then goes +12V when you turn them on. If you still have problems go to my website and get my phone number I will be available till quite late. Good luck. Leon

That would be a Dynamco remote find it here www.dynamco.com.au in the remotes section. Cheers

Two choices, one is to run 2 sets of 2core into the divers door and pick up both doors directly from the back of the switches in the armrest or run 1 set of 2core into the drivers door (to pick up the drivers door) and the passenger door you can get in the D/S kick panel up high where it comes in from the drivers door (not my choice as it is very tight and hard to access). The first choice is much easier and dont forget there is a small grommit in the A pillar hiding behind the main bigger one that has the bolt in it. The small grommit will fit 2 2cores and the central locking wires easily.

check with another multimeter (in case your one is out) or use the same multimeter on another car to see the difference. Also read the details on the battery to see what voltage it says, I have never seen a 16V battery. If it is 16V tell me as I could use one or two of them for my SPL project.

Nissan Australia might not be very helpful but try your luck, if not then Japan is your other choice but expect a 3 month wait and a price that is equivalent to a brand new alarm system which comes with 2 remotes. Dont forget you still need to get the new factory remote programmed........nightmare!

No it does not meet the requirements to be Australian Standards, in fact I do not know of any imports that meet these standards,in NSW at least, even the 03' 04' V35's need an aftermarket Australian Standards immobiliser just to get compliance. Cheers

lol

Yes that is the overall loudest, but the record for each year gets reset at the beginning of each year. By the time we get to AutoSalon Final Battle in December we dont see why we can't get 165 or higher, remembering ICEAGE 2 was not fully completed when we got 161.5db and that was using Standard off the shelf Crossfire XT 15's. This is a good starting point.