Amaru

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Item has been sold Due to changing what I am doing with my car again, I have a manifold for sale to suit RB26DETT. It is an XS Power stainless steel manifold, T4 flanged so it will suit a variety of turbos including Garrett T04Z etc. Has 6 bolt wastegate flange so will suit a range of wastegates including most Tial ones. Has been bolted to the car, but never used. Want $150 for it for quick sale, will post anywhere but buyer pays postage.

Picked mine up from Sydney, made it back to Canberra and around 3 minutes from home a turbo blew. Got it back for take 2, a few hours later and the gearbox blew. What a great way to start GTR ownership... at least it prepared me

For those that missed the pictures in another thread, spotted by some other SAU members on the weekend... http://www.bnr32.org/ztune.html Please note these are not my pics but other SAU members. I just thought I would collectively pool them in one spot

I think Wakefield Park do some open session drift days... jump on their website to find out (I could be completely wrong haha). Good to see friday nights are alive again... I will come out when I get my car back, which should be soon. Havent really driven it since October last year, withdrawl symptoms are working overtime at the moment.

I managed to never get a fine while on my P's until the last night I was on them where I managed to cop about $600 in fines and 3 demerit points... doh!

If you really have as built an engine as you say you do, ditch the twin idea and put on a T51R-SPL. Friends car which is a 2.7L litre is on full song by 5000rpm and on standard pump fuel with no additives, no nos etc is making 560kw at all four wheels. If you are really against the single idea you could go a set of Trust TD06-20G's. Once again, another friends car that turned out 520rwkw on pretty low boost on standard pump fuel. Response was worse than the T51R-SPL though.

Im in ACT and use primarily BP Ultimate. I know BP and Shell comes from the same place for ACT residents however on several occasions I have seen that on BP the knock never goes above 15. Without fail, every time I fill up with Optimax and drive it exactly the same as I do on the BP, the knock hits 60. Maybe its just the store I was getting the Shell from...

Im pretty sure Ed at Integra Automotive has some new ones there. If not he can get them fairly quickly. They are expensive though...

You have obviously never been in a GTR with a stroked motor and big single. Good friend of mine owns a 2.7L with a T51-SPL. You keep it in the meat of the revs and its as responsive as my car was with 2530's. The meat of the revs being 4500+rpm, which isnt hard to stay above when you have a 10,500rpm rev limit... and thats with a T51R. A T04Z would be much more responsive. A mines crate engine wont get you a car that goes as quick around a track like theres does. There are some trick bits on the car (carbon driveshaft, changed diff ratios) that make it that quick. And the stroker motor and T04Z would cost less than the $25,000 odd mines want for their engine.

The 2.7L will rev to 10,000+rpm on pump fuel which is why the T04Z goes so well on it. I guess you could say it effectively moves your midrange up a few thousand rpm, as changing at 10,000rpm wont make you fall as far back down in the rev range as changing at 8 will

If I were building something with that power at the wheels with that budget I would probably do something as follows: N1 block JUN 2.7L stroker kit (crank, rods, pistons) JUN oil pump 9 litre enlarged and baffled sump (CRD in Australia could help you out with that and send one over) JUN 272 degree 11.35mm lift camshafts JUN titanium bits for head (buy this and the cams as a package) JUN cam gears Tomei gasket kit and head oil feed restrictor HKS T04Z turbine kit (turbo, manifold, wastegate) HKS Type R intercooler HKS Type S oil cooler HKS duel entry fuel rail Sard 800cc injectors Sard type RJ fuel pressure regulator Bosch 044 pump in tank going to surge tank, with twin 044's pumping from surge tank ECU of your choise Youre then going to need some form of gearbox/clutch combination. I am a big fan of the OS Giken OS88 6 speed sequential box, but this might push your budget a bit (the box itself is $16,000 AUD or so) but then again if youre doing alot of the work yourself you will save greatly on labour costs. Id also drill and tap an extra oil drain from the back of the head to the sump, as reccomended many times on this forum. But that above combination would be an awesome street package in my opinion and run some impress 1/4 mile times too. It would easily put out over 400kw at the treads.

Should catch up for a night on the town if you end up going Beer Baron

Quite aware of how shit and cheap the RS-V04's were and that I was probably paying too much, but at that time I didnt have a problem with any of that. My problem is the fact I paid for them and told they were in stock, drove 600kms round-trip to get them and they werent there. Then to try and replace them with Zeix's and say that they didnt have to provide a refund as Zeix were comparable tyres is a joke. Then get sworn at when I was adamant I wanted a refund... thats the part I have a problem with.

Just bought my tickets for the Melbourne F1 as they went on sale this morning (ring Ticketek, cant book on the net without a code). In the Senna stand on the far right hand side at the front, so can see the last 2 corners and down pit straight, woo! Anyone else heading down to see first hand what Webber can do in a soft-drink can with wheels?

As to the letter of the law, it must go over Dickson. People have however been successful in getting it registered by taking it to an authorised inspection station and then taking the report into a canberra connect shopfront. However you can get caught doing this, and RTA also do audits on registrations and if they see your import as being registered without going over Dickson, you will recieve a random reinspection letter in the mail where they will go harder on you for circumventing the system. It can take 12 - 18 months to get said random reinspection letter. My advice is to just take it to Dickson.

Rang up asking for pricing and availibility on some Falken RS-V04 tyres. Guy on the phone told me they had one set left in stock for that size and if I wanted them I could pay over the phone with credit card. So I transferred just enough into my visa debit account (I dont trust over the phone cc sales), rang back and paid for them and said I would be up the next day to collect them (I live in Canberra). Drive up there the next day, arrive and low and behold they dont have the tyres there and the guy tells me they havent had those tyres in stock for at least 2 months. Asked for a refund on the spot, guy said he would trade them for a set of Falken Zeix tyres for the same price (changing semi-slicks to shit road tyres, thats fair...). I politely said no and I would appreciate a refund. Thats when things went down the crapper and I got abused and told they didnt have to provide a refund if they could provide a similar tyre for the same price. After explaining that I was told on the phone they had the tyres I wanted, driving 3 hours to find out they didnt, being offered a bottom of the range road tyre as a replacement for a semi-slick and being far from impressed, I got my refund, sworn at and told never to come back again. No worries guys, I have no intention of ever returning to enjoy your special version of customer service!

There was a discussion about this recently. To the letter of the law it must go to Dickson, but some staff at the motor registry/canberra connect arent really aware of this rule which is why they say take it to any authorised inspection station.

I thought the only requirement was a collapsable steering column which Nissan built in factory (as every other car does). Could be wrong though I do remember going over Dickson though and horn button was removed to confirm the wheel had been bolted on properly.

Hide the PFC hand controller and remove the pictures from the forum. Aftermarket ECU's are a big no-no... sometimes they will get you for it, other times they wont. Steering wheel will be fine as long as its secure and it wasnt an airbag model and has had the airbag removed.

Dont buy crappy tools and you wont have a problem Supercheap sell one set of decent tools, its the superworks gold or platinum or something, they retail for well over $200 though for a basic socket set. Deep impact sockets and stuidly large breaker bars do wonders as well for removing those stubborn bolts. Id say keep at it, but make sure you have a decent floor/trolley jack that can lift the car up quite high (or chuck it on car stands)... makes the job so much easier with a large amount of space under the car for you to move around in.

A handful have made it out of Japan into the UK. They get all the cool cars over there... a few Z-Tunes running around, some 400R's running around, JUN hyper lemon, Top Secret demo car etc. Has no relevance whatsoever to any in Australia though... dont even know why I posted this

Ditched my aircon, but was more of a neccessity to fit the intercooler in nicely. Could have moved it but I never used it anyway (I dont even think it worked) so out it came!

Pretty sure I know the car you are talking about. I have encountered it many a times before on the parkway driving like a tosser... usually involves being in the left hand land yet two of his wheels are over the middle line... makes it next to impossible to overtake him unless you are game to squeeze between him and the concrete wall. Will talk to some friends who know him and make sure he is aware of how crapola his driving is. But im going to sum it up, I really dislike people driving around mid to late 90's 318i's thinking they are the hottest shit on the planet. Hello? You are driving the base model that was built to enable the masses access to a "luxury" car. While your car might have the same badge on it of the company that does make some nice cars, yours is not one of them. Its the VN executive of the commodore world, theres nothing luxury about it and it doesnt make you look like you have lots of money.

Apollo Rd used to be great before the bushfires. After the fires the edges of the road has curled up and the trucks heading out that way have torn the road up quite a bit compared to what it used to be. Really wish they would fix it up to its former glory. Still a great drive, just be careful as everyone else said or it will end in disaster (and with no mobile reception its a long way to walk if you prang your car).