Amaru

Im going for bottom end... it just isnt too bad yet Theres a thread on here recently of someone whos car was driven with a stuffed bearing, check it out. Specifically looks at the pictures for the end result

Im pretty sure rare spares are the only people in ACT that stock it.

removed

Dont bet on it. Have seen quite gruesome accidents twice when a tool has overtaken round a blind corner and wiped out a bike rider or two. One was a fatal accident. If you are going down that way, if you get stuck behind a slow truck wait it out till you get to the top, turn around and try again. Taking 5 minutes extra to get to the top is nothing compared to overtaking around a blind corner/double lines and killing someone coming the other way.

Pro Engines - www.proengines.com.au Has built multiple RB's that support well over 500hp

Get a personal loan not a car loan, they dont care what you use the money for then.

Got compression test results?

The car was tuned correctly when it first was built (when it did alot of km's as well being a daily driver then). The problem crept up when I added on parts that would alter the AFR's and never got it retuned properly, just patch up jobs here and there, and as an end result it ran stupidly rich on boost. The AFR's on boost were low 11's, and for one small part of the map dipped into the high 10's. Aside from that, cruise was never worse than 14.0:1. Im going to stop being a slacker and get it properly tuned (map wiped and start from scratch) when its back together. Ferni, dont run octane booster, it does the same thing

Low 11's

They are availible to the public, however they are nowhere near as aggressive cam profiles as the test units (e.g. on that R34). As for ECU, HKS Fcon V Pro is your friend... well, as long as you can find someone to tune it

AFR's were stupidly rich when running on boost, hence all the carbon. It needed a rebuild 30000k's ago because a valve guide had broken and scored the cylinder bore slightly (hence the reason for the overbore too). No cracking, no problem with oil cooling lines, all a-ok. The rebuild was fairly cheap, cant remember the exact price, but it wasnt alot. The reason its apart again is to fit a crank collar and new oil pump to it, then its all being slapped back together again with a fresh set of rings (and minus the carbon on the pistons). I noticed you have a 94 model GTR, in which case every one I have seen came fitted with an R33 crank from factory, so the crank collar shouldnt be a problem for you.

Run in was 500km on mineral oil never using more than 25% throttle, then it drank nothing but Motul 300V Chrono. Fronm 500km to 1000kms used 50% throttle and put some more load on the engine, did another oil change at 1000, did another 1000kms going easy on it, changed the oil and flgoged the guts out of it Its apart to get the crank collar fixed... the recent thread on here of the conrod exiting out the side of the block worried me enough to spend the cash to get it done

No, im saying any pre 1994 R32 GTR owner should fit a crank collar or R33 GTR crank. That oil pump didnt have much life left in it before it would have let go... even a wee bit too much throttle at cold oil temp could have been enough to see it go bang. The crank collar extends the drive on the crankshaft into the oil pump so its not a problem anymore. The 1994 R32's and all R33 and R34's came with a longer drive for the oil pump from the factory.

Well you can read all about it on these forums and make up your own mind. The one part that adds credability I guess is the fact its driving around on manufacturer plates. http://forums.nicoclub.com/zerothread?id=158192

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...howtopic=106291 <-- Pictures of the internals of said engine here. Yeah whoops, my bad... I think this smilie sums up my facial expression at the time it happened

And the oil pump with red circles around the wear points...

Well I believe good deeds should go rewarded, and also once people have their engines built they never usually have them apart again. So I thought I would post some pics of the internals of my engine. The engine was rebuilt in mid 2003 and has since covered a touch over 30,000kms running between 300 and 350rwkw. As like most GTR drivers I look after my car, but to put it honestly, I also flog the guts out of it alot of the time too (any GTR owner who says they dont is a liar!) so I was curious as to what condition the internals would be in once stripped down being driven hard alot with that much power on a relatively stockish engine. The rebuild included a slight overbore (20 thou) due to some mild scoring on the bore, Arias forged pistons, standard conrods shot peened with ARP2000 rod bolts, new main and conrod bearings, bit of head porting and polishing. Just your basic bare bones rebuild I guess with a bit of added strength. I have attatched some pictures of the cylinder bore, main bearings, conrod bearings and piston. The worst part of the engine was the piston which is covered in carbon due to running rich, but besides that the engine still looks almost like brand new. Hone marks still visible on the bore with no scoring, main bearings still look nice and fresh, same with rod bearings. The only thing that appears to have copped a flogging was the oil pump (no crank collar), which is showing some signs of wear. I will post up a pic so people know what the problem actually is/looks like. Anyway, nothing really overly exciting in this thread, just thought some people may be curious as to what such an engine would look like on the inside after a decent amount of km's. A big thanks goes to Greg and Warren at Pro Engines (www.proengines.com.au) who originally built the engine, which has stood the test of time quite well indicating it was an excellent rebuild (I was expecting a lot more carnage to have gone on internally). If you need a rebuild, see these guys!

Yes it would definately be worth putting in sump baffles while its all apart. Pro Engines (www.proengines.com.au) can provide you with a JUN copy, without the attatched JUN price tag. Its for the standard capacity sump, has huge metal trapdoors on light hinges to keep as much oil as possible around the pickup, very well designed and quite a few cars using them without any problems.

Im leaning towards the PAR, simply for value for money reasons. It looks like a very strong box, and they guarantee it up to 750bhp. It costs less than $5000 for them to rebuild the box with new gearset and a freshen up of the box (new bearings etc). Have seen one installed in a GTR, the owner said driving it was very similar to the stock box. The only real downfall is they are -very- noisy 1st through 3rd.

So how was the trip to Dubai? You were there just a couple of months ago werent you? Theres a thread on here at the recently reopened dragway in Dubai with pictures of Ferrari Enzo's and the like... your car can be spotted in the background. How much did the U-Haul trailer cost to get it to Dubai as im looking at going soon?

Im yet to find someone to beat me for the sheer amount of black crap on the back of their car I wash it and its filthy again within 1 day though

NAman, take it to Autotech in Fyshwick, they charge something like $60 from memory for a dyno run with AFR print out. I might look into holding a SAU-ACT dyno day there soon too if theres enough interest.

I dont think anyone in Canberra really does remapping of the stock ecu's. In saying that though, I have vague memories of that car being chipped anyway (in which case, it cant be remapped)... I could be wrong through.

The O-rings cost less than $1 each from places like Pirtek.

If he recieves the summons it will be because he has been charged with a criminal offence (driving while unlicensed). For the judge to impose an extra suspension, the court has to find you guilty of the offence (a judge cant impose a sentance on an innocent person, and thats how our courts work, innocent until proven guilty), which means you will have a criminal conviction against your name. You can try and pull the i had to work excuse, but from first hand experience in ACT, it doesnt work well with the judges anymore. You caused the initial suspension, its not the courts or anyone elses fault you couldnt get to work (and public transport extends beyond busses and trains to include taxis... and taxis run all the time). Basically I would be expecting at a minimum an extra 6 months suspension and a reasonable sized fine.