Amaru

They can and do happen, but it usually takes a few people to dob you in before US do anything about it (e.g. send you a reinspection notice). Maybe theres a few people in your street that dont like your car and banded together to dob you in?? Usuaully you have to have a reinspection, but they have to make it conveniant for you. Upon request they will actually come to your house/work and inspect it, so theres an option. Just raise it up and quieten the exhaust down some how for the inspection, not much else you can do.

Its a 5 minute job to pull the front propshaft from the Stagea which will let it run on a 2WD dyno Damn... my car wont be ready in time

Next to none of the coolers for the GTR come with piping, you just get the cooler. They range from $1500 - $3000 depending where you get them from, then a complete piping kit is usually around $1000 - $1500 on top from the big manufacturers (HKS, Trust etc). Just grab a second hand HKS Type R/Trust R-SPL etc from one of the local parts importers, save yourself alot of money and use the stock piping.

Dyno days are usually held at Autotech on in Fyshwick (Alfa Romeo service place next to powatone), they have a 2WD dyno dynamics dyno. Hasnt been one for a while, and I doubt there will be as people dont tend to run them through summer. When it starts cooling down again in 2006 I dare say there would be a couple more.

Just to tack on to the end of this thread, does anyone have any experience with the Garrett T04Z with the 0.96 exhaust? I assume power would be very similar to wrxkilla's T04R dyno graph from a few weeks back, and same sort of lag/response? Talking about a 2.6L too, not a 3L

It would cost more than its worth, not to mention the car would run like an absolute pig as the ECU is tuned for the car running with a turbo. Insurance wont be cheaper either, its still a GTSt and will be considered a turbo model.

New intake piping to remove the intercooler, new exhaust manifold, new exhaust to mate up to the manifold. Its not really worth it. Buy a non turbo, then when you want to take the step up to the turbo, by the turbo model

You could have 1kw and if the clutch is stuffed it will do what you are describing. Its something in the driveline between the engine and wheels thats slipping (hence the engine speed going faster than the car actually is), and the only real part in there that can cause these symptoms is a clutch.

They are 280hp at the flywheel, not the wheels from factory. Stock examples with exhaust, pods and a bit of extra boost usually run around 180-190kw depending on overall condition of the engine.

Wasnt out cause I was working... and will be for many more friday nights it seems, doh

You will be seeing yourself tomorrow, since its on Sunday

Take it to Ed at Integra. From what I have seen, these warranties are practically useless and a waste of money. Before you do anything, chuck another set of spark plugs in it. Its a 30 minute job, and the plugs (BCPR6ES) will cost you about $15 - $30 depending where you get them from. Could just be a set of shite plugs that are cleaning themselves up when driving hard and foul straight away again at idle/low revs.

Strange... the set that came out of my engine were the same as standard ones Saying that though, wouldnt it just be cheaper then to get an adjustable pulley for the exhaust side to retard it a bit to same as the N1 spec?

Spotted skygtrline cruising no front bar styles past homeworld yesterday about 1pm.

Well I now work at Southern Cross Ten, so .. I dont know... If you want TV be nice or ill bring the whole thing crashing down??

The RON is resistance to pre-ignition (detonation). The higher the RON, the more boost/ignition timing you can run in the car, and the more the fuel can cope with higher combustion temperatures. Have heard problems with some S13 and S14's not liking this fuel very much and running very erratically on stock ecu, same with pre MY01 WRX's. I dont think I would chance it unless I had a lambda meter shoved up the exhaust to see how exactly the car is running, and if you are running aftermarket management id fill it up, drive it very gently to the tuners and get it retuned.

They are the same as standard GTR cams.

Ethanol has a higher oxygen content in it than your normal fuel, which will lean the car out. I have seen examples of cars tuned for 98RON at 11.8:1 AFR's and when filled up with E10 they leaned out pretty badly (this is also evidenced in the HPI GTR special that came out a few weeks ago). Octane rating has nothing to do with it, its simply the fact the fuel has alot more oxygen in it than normal, and for the car to run properly on it, the ECU needs a retune. Wether the stock ECU can compensate for such a rise or not, I have no idea, but I dare say that may be why Nissan reccomend against using it.

I wont be going anymore due to said radiator explosion events in other thread. Have a good day everyone

Well one minor problem, my radiator decided to explode somewhat last night, but it will be fixed before the big day

What colour and what wheels?

Well for those that saw my car pissing water out everywhere, busted radiator outlet doh time for a new radiator.

And this is a prime example of why when you run a bearing its worth stripping the engine down to find out how much other damage has happened Good luck with the engine

I put wetterwater in my GTR, and the temp reading on the PFC did actually drop ~3-5 degrees on average. I was pretty skeptical the stuff would work, but a redline rep was at the shop i buy my oils from and gave me a bottle for free to try out (granted, i was buying about $400 worth of diff and gearbox oils).

For real? Walking around I assume? Where abouts where you? Wouldve said hi if i saw you.