Amaru

The hole isnt the same size, as a small example the feed for the oil squirter is "O" big and the actual hole it squirts out of is only "o" big. Will try and get a picture this afternoon.

Most of what you are saying makes sense. All of a sudden one day, oil pressure dropped around 1bar at idle (at idle used to sit on 2bar and go to 4bar under hard acceleration, now it sits on 1bar at idle and goes to 2bar under hard acceleration) and the car has a 'knocking' sound to it, which ive asked the engine builder/mechanic to check multiple times and they say its nothing out of the ordinary - i have been worried about it though the whole engine runs -ALOT- louder than any other RB26's I know (it has a constant tapping noise, but it sounds like a faint knocking noise). With the sump off I looked up into the cylinders and can see the cutout for the squirters, and they are installed the correct way around.

Doesnt look like I will be making it for a while

The pistons were installed the correct way around, and I can see the cut, but they still seem to have hit. When winding the engine by hand all the clearances seemed ok and they didnt hit, however I was told at high rpm they might have just breifly touched and thats what caused them to snap off. Ah well looks like another rebuild on the cards

My thoughts exactly. I was told Arias were not the best forged piston you could buy, but were still of pretty good quality for price. All of them have snapped off except for cylinder #1. Will try and get some photos tomorrow but any advice in the meantime would be appreciated.

Will do, I dont have pictures of the whole process, just pictures showing the engine still in the car without sump. Its still a fairly heft process and will cost a pretty penny, but should be a few hundred less than full engine removal. Will post tomorrow when I can get pictures onto computer.

Just wondering if anyone else has had this problem or could tell me which of the two things happened. Ill give the scenario out first. Engine was rebuild around 12 months ago, using standard (shot peened and polished) rods, Arias 20 thou overbore forged pistons. We had the sump off the car today (I also have pictures to show it can be done relatively easy without removing the engine, and also cheaper labour than removing the engine - R32 GTR) for various reasons, and there was some metal in the sump. After getting the metal pieces out, it was obvious all the oil squirters in the cylinders have snapped off. They appear pretty flimsy and look like theyve just been clipped by the piston and come off. The two scenarios I have been given are, Arias stuffed up making them and they're a fraction too big, or the engine builder got the clearances wrong. When everything was installed, they turned the engine by hand, and everything cleared, my mechanic is telling me this wouldve happened at high rpm. Now to my options. My mechanic wants to install "modified" oil squirters that sit a little bit lower and shouldnt get clipped by the pistons, but my thinking is if everything should have been ok to start with, this shouldnt have even happened. Other options are to completely strip and rebuild the engine (as its still under warranty -- just!). Just after some general feedback as to wether this is a common problem, or what I should do? Any info would be appreciated.

Damn a genuine aussie delivered gtr... one of the rarest of the rare Welcome mate, look forward to catching up with you some time. Otherwise if youre ever out driving around civic on friday nights anywhere you can usually find me (white gtr, white 3 spoke enkeis) at one of the service stations in braddon, come past and say hi. Wouldnt mind also getting a look at the transfer case cooler only you aussie delivered gtr and N1 boys got

Ok cool, will hopefully see you guys there then Ill be in a white 32 gtr with white 3 spoke enkei wheels stalling all over the place (getting used to new clutch :Oops: ) Just curious, are you guys voting before you leave, or can one vote in Goulburn somewhere (never voted before either).

im always down for a meet and greet... as long as my cars working...

Just curious if anyone from SAU will be heading down for the open track day this Saturday? If so wouldnt mind meeting up with some of you, and if any of you guys coming are repeat visitors, getting some tips as it will be first time out.

After reading all 6 pages of this thread, Rezz is spot on the money. To own a high powered car you need to be mature. Everyone talking about experiance and how young drivers lack it, just remember, this whole event shouldnt have happened in the first place. Melbourne has dragways and circuits, if youre the owner of a high power car, make a MATURE decision to use those facilities instead of endangering your own and other peoples lives racing on the streets. Living in Canberra, its hard to believe how many people in Melbourne take the resources availible to them (dragways and circuits) for granted and still prefer to street race. Up here, we dont have a dragway or a circuit to use, yet the only serious skyline accident in the past 12 months was when someone slid one into a pole, and that was due to oil being on the road. For anyone who participates in street drags in Melbourne, get off the road you f'ing dickhead and use the facilities the government and private companies built for you to use. After all that however, I do have some sympathy for the people who lost their lives in this accident, such a tragic waste to see young people pass away. As for the driver, he deserves everything he gets. He made the decision to do high-speeds on public streets, he has to live with all the consequences, including hopefully being prosecuted to the fullest extent of the law (i think manslaughter rings a bell?)

Mine is similar, its a 92 build car but seems to have 94 R32 or R33 running gear in it. A quick possible check is, on the left hand side of the engine bay (looking at the car from front on) look down where the oil filter is. The early (pre 94 R32's) have alot of hydraulic lines and HICAS pump stuffed in there, whereas the 94 R32's and R33's dont (or so ive been told - they have an electronic hicas pump under the car). I cant confirm the accuracy of this information, but it seems to fly as another genuine 1994 model I checked also didnt have the hicas pump and lines there, but an earlier 91 model did.

Im not sure on the GTS models but on the GTR it can be done without removing the engine, however at the end of the day it will cost you around the same in labour. Involves pulling the gearbox off, removing the front cross member while holding the engine in place with an engine stand, quite alot of work.

Yeah my apologies people, I did intend to come down but my car is still off the road and I had no other means of transport We'll have to have another cruise sometime with lots of notice for a biggg turnout.

it wasnt planned to end up like this

Unfortunately wont be able to make it due to no car

The GTR if it breaks will send you broke... awesome cars though

My car has a brand new thermostat in it, I dont think thats the problem. From what I have been told, the temperature is meant to hold around 82 - 85 degrees. Naturally of course, if you stop this is going to go up as theres no airflow through the radiator. However, I am just wondering what temp the fan is meant to kick in at?

When you download $300 of excess data im sure your dad will be more than willing to pay the extra $30

Does anyone know what temp the fan is meant to kick in at? On my power fc, normal driving usually sits around 85 degrees, however after stopping for fuel it can go up to 100 - 105. I dont hear the fan while idling, but when the temp gets hot, when I start driving off you can hear it (the car sounds like a truck).

pine island/point hut

Ahh it could be the mysterious R32 GTS(t?) with the gtr looking body and v-spec sticker. Ive seen this a few times on Monaro Highway.

To save starting another thread, id also be interested to know, I have HKS GT2530's with stock camshafts and camgears. This week Tomei 260 in/ex camshafts are being put in and tomei cam gears. I have heard people say dont adjust the Tomei stuff as you wont get power, is this true? If not, whats the most common adjustment to bring boost on as early as possible and have nice low to mid range torque.

If its a (non-dampened) multi-plate clutch then yes they will rattle alot when youve got the clutch in. They will also make a quick rattle/shriek when starting the car usually.