geordie

It seems alot of the pictures that have been posted earlier in this thread (ie: pages 5 etc) are no longer working, could a admin person check this out?? PLZ??

The exhaust will make a snappy vibrating noise in N/A's and it has been layed down to a charicteristic of the engine, something along the lines of the cams, should be most prominaent around 2500-2900ish. I had a problem with mine a little while back where the engine would cut out and react like it was hitting redline fuel cut, but would do it as low as 3500rpm, esp the hotter the engine became, this turned out to be the exhaust cam sensor. Which is a mitsubishi part (Mitsu sabotage!!) i wasnt happy because the very same time it stop working, was the same time my car was sitting on the dyno, i was very pissed off. My car hit top of 96kw @ wheels, but due to the sensor cutting out at 4000rpm, and anyone with an N/A knows this is where the real power only starts to build up, i had another good 2500-2800 rpm left to pump out my power figure, i was not a happy boy.

Also is there a GTS/T version of the do luck, sorry for going OT a touch

I've heard gains of upto 8-9kw @ wheels can be made, but thats from the grape vine, you would need to verify with someone in the know.

Thats wrong, brakes are N/A spec, single pot calipers, smaller rotors and a 4 stud hub. So unless the car has been upgraded then the brakes are no different to other N/A skylines. The diff is also different, turbo's came with LSD. Un sure to suspension specs but i am going to asume that the spring etc aren't the same as a turbo spec vehicle. Could be wrong, the weight difference in the models would be fairly similar (1380kg for mine, which is the GTS25) Apparently the intake manifold on the R32 Rb25de is the same as the Rb20det... Basicly, look at the caliper, the 4pot models are larger and have nissan written on them. Hope this helped.....

You can get a R32 GTS25, i know this, coz i drive one! They aren't the most common model, mine is Auto, but the gearbox is quite happy to be slapped down to 3rd or 2nd manually, and does it relatively quickly. Mines a 92model...the engine is different to that in the R33 as it doesnt have the varible valve timing. They go reasonably quick, mine went to quick for me one night and im now trying to bring it back to life.........painful process, but im getting there. Might even get to drive it next week after being off road for 4months (ooohh the excitement!!!)

I have Pm'd you both. Cheers

Need for a R32 GTS: *drivers side guard - straight of cause *drivers side mirror - whole electric folding unit. PM me if you have either. Cheers Geordie

Coil packs, they are running along the top of your head, pull off the intake, pull of the plastic cover on the head (allen keys if i remeber) and there you will see the row of 6 coilpacks and the distributer sitting at the back, which is bolted to the top of the plastic cover - Have fun when you wanna change them, set aside at least an hour.

My exhaust history - standard exhaust had the very noise you are speaking of noise at 2800-3100rpm, but being stock was fairly quiet, then fitted rice cannon, which acted like a huge amplifier and the noise was massively loud , eventually i was pulled over and defected, went to the exhaust shop had a 2.5inch sytem fitted with the largest resonator they could fit, but keptthe cannon muffler, i now get a slightly hollow pipe noise but still sounds decent, the snappy high noise is there but much more muffled and contributes alot to the pipe noise. Personly, it scares ppl cause they think you have some crazy mods or something ???? but yeah, basicly... Moral of the story - i think its something to do with the cams as mentioned above cause i cant get rid of it, muffle it as much as you can and live with it...sorry buddy

If your going for the 3ltr bottom end your going to need to shave the block or something, to raise compression. Because once fitting the rb25 head it lowers compression to 8.9:1(from memory) stock is 10:1(from memory again). These figures are well documented in the turbo section of the forum for the 3ltr conversion. Also give you many pointers should you wish to undergo this conversion your self. That said, this lowering in compression would be good if you wanted to undergo the forced induction route (ie: Supercharger). As the N/A's compresion ratio is to great for a simple bolt on turbo job (as most of you prolly already know)

Once you have it in i would be real keen to see some pics Phantom, Cheers

Extractors, a lightened flywheel allows you to rev up quicker thus getting you into the power band quicker, could help to cut your ET. Induction + a partion to avoid engine heat being sucked in..........

Chris - 10k is enough. My car(when purchased)- 92mdl, GTS25, Stock appart form 17" rims, Immaculate interior and exterior, 69800kms, 12mths redgo(sticker wasnt even on the car when i purchased) - $9400, only downside is it was auto, but the 2.5ltr in the r32 more than makes up for this........ Only advice - look around everywhere, i hit the tradingpost webby every thursday morning, and eventually i found this car. I was originally in the hunt for a early model silvia k's or 180sx but this car caught my eye, and there just seems to be more stigma in owning a line .....good luck on your search. As for insurance im on a monthly payment scheme, comprehensive is going to knock your back pocket severely so i didnt go for it. But i got a pretty decent deal *3rd party property + *10k fire and theft Works to be about a $45 monthly payment, no biggie. So if you thinnk you have the control to not drive like a nut, then this policy is ok. Downside is, if you get hit by someone who isnt 3rd party property insured....bad luck, hit a kangaroo..bad luck...get hit by a drunk driver, insured or not, their company will avoid them like the plague.....bad luck again........but its a risk i take, i got some small damage on my car from a car park, but to get it repaired even if i was comprehensivly insured would be cheaper outa my own pocket, because the excess on making a claim would be greater than the repair bill....... P.S - Welcome to the forums

Your gunna have to travel mate, unfortunately country NSW is not going to be the easiest place to source one, even in Wagga, best bet is to head on down to Sydney with the tradingpost under your arm one weekend, bet you'll come home with something.

Well im still considering this option and thought i would bring a new lease of life to the thread...........got the compression problem solved........series 2 vl commodore bottom end, not only do you get the extra capacity its a fairly straight forward swap and brings compression down to 8.9:1. This conversion has been covered extensively in the turbo section of the forum, so anyone interested, its about a 35pg thread. Very interesting, its for a turbo set up, but the core idea could easly be applied to this idea..........

Attachment didnt work on previous post........will try again, this pic is before the exhaust, so picture a large stainless cannon with 5" tip sitting in underneath there

Well i got a 92mdl R32 GTS25, got full stereo and catback exhaust, 17" mags, and a panel filter(big whoop) dont know what i would sell it for, gotta get some slight panel damage repaired but after that prolly part with it for 13k or so.........pretty rare combination of the r32 and rb25de.......but i aint parting with it, i got some plans for my baby...........one day

Yeah mate thats what i got, R32 gts25, put on 2.5" cat back zorst, panel filter, and it came with 17's

OK, auto goes ok, but i will look at a conversion in the future. Overdrive is a option on the stick there is a button which gives you the top gear, with out it for example on a high way your 100km cruising speed will be at about 1000more rpm 3000 rather than 2000. Two modes, snow and power. Snow limits your changes to a max of 4000rpm and most often less, and you start of in second gear (ie very slugish when tackling round aobuts) Power mode allows the car to rev out to red line, and if you have it in normal and realy put the foot down quick it automaticly pops into power mode for you. I picked my car up for $9400, in perfect condition, with 12months redgo. It was absolutely stock, factory radio etc etc, bar some 17" wheels. It had 69800kms when i got it, it was a total bargain, and beleive the fella who sold it to me realy underpriced the car, its only downside was the auto box. But it had the 2.5ltr engine so i thought that was a good compromise. Hope that helps. Ps i manual change the auto box quite alot and it seems to of been built for this coz it allows you to do it freely, with a simple push/pull it jumps into place with no worries, i use it for slowing down mostly then when stopped put it back into drive, coz the box changes for optimum performance on its own.

HPI had a silvia from japan with the same very conversion, it was a very tidy article. I would stick with the sr and doing the internals as sujested above, simple because yeah the Initial engine cost is massive, you could buy all the aftermarket parts for the price of the engine then use the money you would spend on the install on the sr rebuild. Once done you get a fresh 0km engine (the rb26dett wont be that), and you dont mess up the the realy good weight balance of the sr20 equiped car.

And the compression is to high.........power=more boost=more boost=dead n/a head gasket/mass detonation/new engine...

Lol, well my tank is smaller i think, but i am lucky to get 300-350 on a tank (bout $45)city/town run about, but will get 600 easy on straight highway driving only.

Let a company like prestige motorsport worry bout all that for you if you choose to import, i got the R32 gts25, its a nice car, my auto box holds it back but thats to change in the future. Got the 2.5ltr goodness and the lighter shell, more room in a r33, bigger backseat etc, more spacious, but the r32 just looks mean and ready to go.

I thought that the vl rb30 block or sump was unable to be put into the gtr cause of the driveline?? thus why anyone who wants the 3ltr bottom end in the gtr goes for the 25k os giken ones.....any comments??