Orphan

Hey guys, I couldn't find anything via search but does anyone know the general safe maximum bore you can run on an RB30 block without sleeving it?

Hey Mark, Do you mind if I come over and say Hi and have a look at your car if I see you there again? I work at the James St Markets right next door.

I kinda have to agree with the car being too smart for itself, give it another 15 years and cars will probably have too much electronics to even really work on yourself without a degree in electrical engineering haha. Chris is your 34 blue? I remember seeing a blue 34 gtr heading north along gympie road from the city quite a while ago. EDIT: Chris I just checked out your companies website, are you any good with soldering? The instrument cluster in my soarer needs 2-3 capacitiers replaced and I'm definately nothing flash at soldering not to mention I've never desoldered before. If you don't do this sort of work do you know of anyone In Brisbane north side that has reasonable prices? I can supply parts if needed as it will probably be a bit easier that way.

lmao poor R8.

I suppose when you have an R35 you have better things to do than be on a forum haha. Thanks for the reply. I kinda want to check one out in person. Might just ask the guy if I can have a look inside though I imagine he will say no because he thinks im some random sticky handed kid haha.

I think the standard body work looks fine besides the front bar. A new wing will most definately change downforce characteristics if the design size and angles are changed. I doubt a aftermarket rear bar would negatively affect performance in any way as long as the diffuser is still set up how it was suppose to. The front bar I think could impact performance and downforce a little. I think its a bit bleh from the front but side on it looks ok. If the standard opening is big enough for the radiator and intercoolers then I wouldn't want to move to something bigger as your just creating more drag. Nissan have really went all out on designing this car and there are very few improvements that can be made within the limits of what they have built. I doubt that any aftermarket aero accessories will really help besides a bigger wing if its a race vehicle. The engine side of things can always be upgraded though, I was sad to hear haltech aus killed an engine with only 400kw, I have seen articles about several different 600hp+ R35's with no mention of aftermarket pistons and rods which leaves me scratching my head. If you have the money to get an R35 I guess you have the money to spend 20k on building the engine if it strikes your fancy.

Lol do they ever top the oil back up or do they just take more and more out every track day you go to until your engine siezes? Its so stupid that they can get away charging rediculous prices for the exact same stuff that is done to any car for a lot less. I have been servicing my car for quite a few years now and it costs me 1/3 that of what most places want to do simple tasks. Here is a question, do JRM R35's get no support in aus? Like if you need any factory work done will they refuse your car because it was imported?

Hey, I was just wondering if the owner of a red R35 who has been at Campos Cafe the last two weekends is a member on here? Car looks great in red, glad you gave it some when you left, made my day haha.

Thanks for the info. I'll be ordering a book called maximum boost soon which covers everything in detail so i've heard and even has joyess calculations.

Sure was. Lol i'll get a propper car one day. Where abouts in canberra are you?

I have regular 595's on mine at the moment. They are pretty good not that I have had that many other tires to compare to. I have gotten pretty good life out of my rears with over 25,000km's and still loads of tred but my front have worn down pretty fast they are at about 60%. This is regular street driving mind you. 235's on the front and 255's on the rear. How much are the 255/40R17 RS-R's out of curiosity?

INVRTD yours is the white R33 right? Saw that last night.

Hey sorry for the slow reply. CeJay, you didn't happen to be out at the national museum last night did you? The guy with the blue 32 4 door? And Pav34 no link is coming up on my end so maybe PM it to me?

Hey Guys, Just need a cheap set of 17's that will take 235's up the front and 255's so 8" and 9" staggered would be ideal. Its for a soarer so need 5 stud 114.3's I think it is. Offset of +38 or 40 would be good but +50 is the standard from memory. Brakes are tiny anyways so shouldn't have any clearance issues. Thanks. BTW I know I don't have a skyline but I wouldn't mind catching up with some of you guys just to get to know a few more people. Use to be a pretty big nissan fan then the uni thing hit and I didn't have any cash so got my soarer cheap. Let me know if something is happening.

Thanks guys. Will do. Have about 150kg of scrap L and square laying around my dads place when we stripped down the trailer and rebuilt most of it so that will be a good start I think. Doing an exhaust would be pretty easy right? Its about the only think I could do on my car any time soon as its a stock v8. Either just take out the resinators and ad some good mufflers on the end or do a 2.5" cat back for it. Will just use mild steel for cheapness + ease as I'd have no idea how to weld stainless + kinda pointless for my ap. Will just spray the outside with that anti coroding stuff so it won't just rust away in 20mins, I suppose not much water if any will get on it while parked etc and when your driving they are hot so it will just sizzle off right? For a 2.5" cat back is there an adapter I can buy to go from the standard like 1.75-2" whatever it is up to the 2.5? Would an exhaust shop be the best place to get the cat back pipes bent? Don't think they'd wanna help out that much as its not them doing it haha. I have access to a hoist for free as well so getting the measurements and installing is no issue. Also what thickness mild steel pipe would you use for an exhaust? Would it have to be thicker then the stainless which is like 1.5mm?