tigermm

You're both right! It depends if you have a proper closed loop boost controller which actually measures boost pressure, or a factory type setup which is made to give a certain pressure when the stock restrictions like exhaust and IC are in place. So on a factory car he is right, removing restrictions makes the whole system work better and you get a boost increase. On a car with a proper EBC you are right, the boost is being measured and digitally controlled without any regard to restrictions, so it should stay pegged at whatever its set to no matter what you change around it.

GCG XTR N1 Turbo's VGC $1300 Are these still available? Did you ever run them? How close to the stockers are they as far as response and spool up goes? They would be going on a stock R33 as a replacement for the stockers so I dont want too much lag. Guessing they should do 300rwkw no prob? And would you be ok with sending to nz?

PM'd, but forgot to ask, what sorta rpm did they get to 1 bar boost? They would be going on a pretty stock R33 so i dont want too much more lag than factory. Did you ever dyno your car with them on?

Cheers guys. I searched for trackday prep/preparation and track day prep/preparation. Didnt even think to just look for prepare, duh.

Well dude, your stock ecu could have a daughter board in it, therefore be tuned, I dunno. Thats why I specified untuned rather than just factory ecu. Also I dont have cam gears, front pipes, or a couple of grand worth of turbos. I was a bit worried I was down on power when you said it should be 250. Given this Im thinking 222kw is probably ok for a stock car with just the catback. What I really wanted to know is if my engine is making normal healthy GTR power. Adriano, I was thinking the exact same thing. even if the turbo did start chewing the housing it would stop pretty damn quick, and yeah the ali would be thru the whole engine most likely. Its weird cause I have never heard of other skylines doing this and they all have ceramic wheels. Maybe its that GTR manifolds are a lot shorter? I ran my GTS4 with a GTt turbo at 15psi for years and never had an issue. Even managed a 12.995 1/4 with it at 18psi It would be interesting to know how many of the turbos that fail are on cars with aftermarket BOVs which are adjusted to build more pressure before they open. I was reading that thread which was linked earlier and one guy said his failed when he changed gear, and another said his was after a drag run. Both are times when the throttle has been snapped shut so there would be a lot of pressure built up on the intake side, and still a lot of gas flow and inertia on the exhaust side. That would mean a sudden spike in the torque being applied to the turbo shaft and it might be why the wheel drops off. My GTS4 always had the stock BOV on it.

Is that on an untuned car with just a cat back exhaust?

Sweet, so mine seems ok then assuming its running 14psi. I think the ecu is stock, doesnt have any stickers or anything on it. Its running 11:1 afr by the time the boost peaks and goes down to 10:1 from there to the redline. Can the timing be advanced from stock?

Yeah thats right, 18psi with the restrictor out. No other boost control system. What size is the hole in the restrictor meant to be? Its weird tho, the dyno graph starts with boost already at 2psi at 40kmh in 3rd, so Im wondering if his sensor is a bit out and its actually running 14psi. Will have to get my own gauge and double check it. How come one turbo dying takes out the motor?

Finally got my R on the dyno today. All i have done is 3" cat back with a cat removal pipe (yay nz) It came up with 222 at the rears on 16psi. Now I know thats not really stock boost but it still has the restrictor in it and removing it only got me 2 psi and 8kw. Is it normal for boost to be this high with just the exhaust fitted?

Well the 10 min job of dropping the front driveshaft turned into an hour long mission! 1 bolt was done up so tight it had warped the threads and another was so badly rounded I had to use vice grips on it. Honestly, the guy who had this car before me was the worlds most retarded mechanic. Even if everything goes nicely I reckon this is a good half hour job unless you have a hoist.

Yeah I think I will just drop the shaft. I read in the engine manual I have that you can put it into 2wd mode by unplugging the atessa bleed connector under the dash and pumping the brakes 5 times within 10 sec. Havnt tried it but Im guessing this will end up the same as pulling the fuse, with preload?

Cheers guys. I had a bit of a search around before I asked but couldnt find much (except the oil control thread and Im not gonna pull the engine to put an extra oil drain on it!) I have the stock turbos so stock boost it is. How much should I overfill the oil? I have read it should be up to the hump in the dipstick but is that when hot or cold?

Ok, I know that youre not meant to run the 33s and 34s on a 2wd dyno without dropping the front shaft, my question is how well are the drive flanges held into the transfer case and front diff? I want to remove the driveshaft at home then drive 50 odd km to the dyno place, will it be ok like this?

Im looking at running my R round a track in a couple of weeks, what are the basic things to do before I go? I have read about overfilling the oil for the day, but how much? Got good brake pads and fluid. Will check tranny level. Anything else? Will the stock turbos be ok with the restrictor removed or should I put it back for the day?

Years ago my 180SX did this in a petrol station, fine when I left it to pay, wouldnt run when i can back out. Once I towed it home I found the engine temp sensor connection was so corroded it was effectively unplugged, making the ecu think it was really cold and needed lots of fuel. I guess the PFC still uses the stock sensor, might be an easy fix.