12DFY

Good reading would be near 160psi, youre engine is getting a little tired but will still be good for a while yet.....

Hey mate, because you have upgraded your exhaust the car will actually boost more, the problem you mention sounds like youre spark plug gap needs to be reduced to cater for the increase in air going through youre motor. Drop plug gaps down to about 0.8mm, should solve youre problems. Bigger exhaust = more air out, which means more air has to go in

Could be your injector?? Check if your spark plug is actually firing. Take it out, coil and all and earth spark plug on to engine and actually physically check if it firing. (preferably unhook injectors at this time as well as fuel mist could be bad in this test). Glad to hear your compression is ok! PHEW!!!

Dog did not make it. Feel bad as it was some poor persons family pet. Car is insured and we will get rent a car after seven days apparently. Are the owners of the dog liable for the excess for the insurance??? What are youre thoughts on the matter??

And on the other end of the scale it could be as simple as a stuck valve etc. But I am on the Gold coast, if you were down this way I would happily compression test for you. When the previous problem I stated occured it was not like a complete misfire, but was definately audible at cruising speed and idle.. Car did not feel down on power too much on full noise???

Just a problem I had in the past. I had a similar misfire at low RPM but when it was revved the speed of the engine hid the misfire. It was still there but it was not audible. I ended up doing a compression test and found one of my cylinders was only about half the others (SH#T). After further investigation was found that no4 piston land(between rings) had cracked. And when i pulled out the piston part of the land fell out with it?? Hope it isnt this bad for you but definately worth the compression test. Compression testing will rule out valves, head gasket and bottom end! (worth doing for piece of mind).

I am over 25 just, and I had a Non-Turbo sedan for many years leading up to now. I agree any car can get to high speeds and kill. But I am not just talking skylines but all high performance cars, the high performance car is usually purchased by young people purely because of their power, and they are not ready for it. When i was 18 I only knew how to drive with me foot flat to the floor, and my VH trimatic commodore was just not powerfull enough to get me in any type of low speed trouble (drift etc). Now I could go back with my 220kw @wheels skyline and try the same type of thing, and it would only end up with a fatality. This whole thing has nothing to do with primarily imports as such but all high performance cars! My only question is HOW do they police such an issue. A 4cyl car nowadays can be high performance so where do they draw the line and how?

I am in full support of these power restrictions, as Mud stated "its about time." High powered vehicles many years ago were not really affordable to young drivers. But now with cars like skylines being cheap it has unleashed a dangerous weapon upon the streets. Not having a go at young drivers but to be honest, if i had my skyline at 18, I would be most likely not be here today. An element of maturity needs to be exercised with these vehicles and sorry young drivers you are not mature enough for the responsibility.

Hello fellow skyliners!! Give you some background on my current problem. I have two R33 GTST sedans, my one is currently undergoing painting (stripped into hundreds of bits) in Narrabri courtesy of a spray painter friend. Now that is all going well and good still, but am not expecting car back for a few weeks yet. Which leads me to my wifes 33, reliable as, still in perfect operating condition and has never had a problem in three years. Now the problem begins when you have a family with two kids etc. One car is hard enough for the moment but as murphy's law states, "what can go wrong, will go wrong." First I was putting new 17" mags on her car this morning but there was a stuff up with delivery and they were a no show. Annoyed a bit by that but what can you do. Sure enough driving home today from Currumbin sanctuary (had a good day mind you) we were travelling along Clagiraba road heading home to Canungra, came over a hill doing the speed limit, and as we were about five metres away from somebodies drive way there two dogs came running straight out on the road infront of the car. Crunch, nothing i could do (dogs were Rottwheeler and boxer). I cleaned up the boxer!! It did not die straight out (and still dont know as the owners rushed him to vet). We stopped and ran in too there farm house and let them know what happened. Owners were cool etc. After chatting to the owners I decided to check my poor skyline. Damage is as follows; Two broken headlights, one totalled Bumper wrecked, Lucky it has no FMIC Bumper support bent Wrecked Grille Bonnet dented quite bad just above corner of Grille All just replaceable parts bar the bonnet. The big problem is we now have no car AT ALL????????? Hope the dog pulls through!!!!!!!!!

The timing of my car at idle is more around the 30-35 degrees and drops down to about 15 degrees under load? Weird. I have had dodgy Ignitor before and it just plain out melted??? Could always try swapping with a mates for a bit and see. Rule it out at least! Have you conducted a compression test on the motor at all? Even though a problem in this area is most likeky going to be a permanent misfire, however they do weird things. Yet again Rule it out at least. Check timing etc as well Same with the CAS, swap with mate and find out, cant hurt to cross more things off youre list of problems. Good luck with it!

Hey all, if anyone has a r33 speed sender unit they could spare let me know. Thanks

Diff ratio's are also different. Still LSD and all, can get around this by calibrating your speedo. Everything else is exactly the same (apart form what was prviously stated about computer.

Not necessarily machined that often to have them undersize, Clutch faces some harsh punishment in many cases and develop hard spots on the surface which can be difficult to machine and require a larger cut to be taken. Obviously this is normal, but in some instances those hard spots change the metal properties and can lead to some surface cracking on the flywheel, this needs large cuts to get them out and like anything, before you know it "UNDERSIZE." Dont it shit ya when you mis-align the clutch spline. We have all been there before. As you stated 5 hours on axle stands, what the hell can you do to waste 11hrs, better check the clutch it may have been polished or something

Thatsdead right. Flywheel just like your brake discs, they are made to be machined within certain specifications, once the flywheel has become undersize then it can not be machined(or rather should not be). 11 hours labour is complete crap anyhow!!!!!!!!!

G'day all, moved down here from Townsville at the start of the year and since the cooler weather has started, my car has began to get detonation quite bad. Which is unusual because as far as I know cooler air helps prevent it? Only changes that I have done in past six months after tune was polish inlet etc. So the bottom line is I need to get it retuned properly and would like to hear about peoples experiences on the gold coast. ECU is Wolf3d V4 plus (and yes in hindsight I would never buy another wolf3d, been a pain in the arse). Let us know who and where please!! Need it done soon as Rev limit is down to 5000rpm so i dont get carried away, and it hurts.

Should be able to make it. Just fixed snapped exhaust camshaft and am currently putting engine together. So if all is well, I am there!!! Springwood it is!

Sweet will gladly pick it up mate, I work in Brisbane on Thursday and Friday. I could happily pinch the one out of my wifes 33 but unfortunately I do not appreciate hospital food. Have the other car so Im sure I will be able to pick it up!!!! Your a life saver mate!

Cam shaft itself mate, Your address is in Auckland so will be unable to pick it up as I live at the Gold Coast Australia. Am more than happy to pay postage and all that good stuff. Funny enough I have an R33 paper weight without it! Dont really want to go aftermarket cams as I would be looking at $800+ and on top of that a retune. So will fix you up accordingly!

No mate, the cam broke on re-assembly. I needed to drill out two broken cam journal studs which required removal of cams etc. When tightening down the cam it apparently decided to snap. I discovered this after it was assembled and would not start. I rebuilt the engine a year ago myself and have had cams out heaps of times. Its not like i didnt know what i am doing or anything its just one of those things hey. Timing was done correctly and everything. Still i was quite annoyed with myself when i discovered what had happened!!!!

Thanks for the reply mate, replacing it again with another stock one is probably my preferred option as i will not need to get retune etc etc etc. What are you willing to part with your stock cam for?

I have an auto R33 GTS instrument cluster. Replaced it with a GTR item. It just laying around so am happy to just give it away. Live in Gold Coast hinterland area

Somehow my exhaust cam decided to part company with the other half of it. Needless to say I need another to take its place. Has someone got one laying around after fitting aftyermarket cams etc?

Hey team. After much swearing and cursing I have come to discover the reason my car wont start is due to a snapped exhaust cam! How it has happened I have no idea!!! Any how my problem has now come in that I have no idea in what to put in its place? Any suggestions please, I am prepared to change both cams but am not sure of which will best suit the car? Mods are S2 RB25 DET (210kw@wheels) Modified inlet plenum Forged pistons (2.6litre now rather than 2.5) FMIC Stock R33 S2 Turbo 600hp Bosch fuel pump Wolf3d V4 plus ECU Turbosmart E-boost EBC What to do???????????????????? Need help on prices, brands, which ones are best suited etc, etc

To get it calibrated you need to get it onto a dyno and get the readings for 60 80 100 km/h on the dyno. Note the dyno speed compared to gauge speed. Take instrument cluster to a boffin/instrument type electronics person and they will know what to do. I skipped this step as I just put the same ratio diff as a GTR in me car.

I have done it on R33 sedan, fits straight in. Need to calibrate speedo as diff ratio on GTR is different