siksII

Ferodo DS2500 or DS performance is hard to beat for a crossover pad in case you have not tried them.

Still for sale, been in storage for a while now!

You should calculate the oil pressure assuming normal oil temp.. What oil temp does it usually run once its hot? The oil is much thicker when cold hence pressure it higher (and flow is less)

I guess any mistake was possible in the previous build - that does sound likely. Motor is running again, quick turnaround. Builder used standard size acl race bearings along with the new crank - they measured up perfect with 1.5 thou clearance on the mains. Just doing done final stuff before I pick it up this weekend.

So what main bearing clearances are people generally running? I hear 2 thou is common? What is the factory spec?

Im picking up a brand new R33 crank (long nose) same as what was in the motor already.

The way the standard oil pump drive is, that small amount of marking is normal, maybe it looks worse in the photos than it really is. Yep everything will be checked before putting it back together including the tunnel. I know what you mean about the bearing grades but I dont have time to try and find a perfect one, I have already arranged to buy a brand new crank. So given the big ends were relatively better compared to the mains, you agree it would have been caused by a mistake with the main bearings? It shouldnt have been surge since its got all the usual oil mods, takes around 9L/oil per change too.

Thanks Scott, when buying a car like this of course there is a fair bit of risk involved, im not suprised at having some issues but since we cant be 100% sure of the cause, just asking for thoughts. The motor and entire car is a good quality build so you would hope not to hit these issues but shit happens Im picking up a new crank on the weekend, apart from bearings and crank the motor looks good so it should be back together very soon. The line at the back of the head is really an extra breather rather than an oil drain (contrary to popular belief)

So after looking for a well set up gtr for years I finally snapped this one up in March: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/420966-1993-r32-track-ready-600hp/ It was pretty much what I wanted: -top shelf suspension -no rust -good interior -600hp -all the mods I was after, circuit ready but still streetable Before i got it, i spoke to the tuner and got compression/dyno tested along with detailed inspection by a workshop just to be safe, all came out well, engine ran great and car was one of the best the workshop had ever seen. In the 5 of so months I had it I have done the following: -fitted the twin 12 inch thermos -removed them -fitted a gktech fan -removed the fake brides and replaced with r33 gtr seats -chassis setup adjustments -General maintenance - fluid changes etc After finally getting the handling, tyres and brakes to where I wanted them, I was going to take it Wakefield for the first time this saturday..so thought I better take it for a good drive last Sunday night to iron out any issues before the track.. In short... -Heard strange vibration at 3500-4500rpm but very minimal, ignored for approx 3 minutes -Looked at oil temp, 110, thats higher than normal -Clutched in and watched oil pressure, it dropped below minimum so turned it straight off and rollled to a stop -Towed it to workshop -Workshop tested oil pressure, its very low. So i went to check out the motor since its pulled apart already: -crank main journals ruined -big end bearings are ok -oil pump is good (some strange marking but this couldnt have happened during operation) -no bearing material has escaped around the engine since the first stop is the oil filter -its very unlikely oil surge caused this -usually when oil surge happens the big ends go first but they are in much better condition than the mains -this indicates the mains were probably the wrong size to start with, got chewed out, caused low oil pressure which then damaged the big ends -i was very lucky not to spin a bearing in typical rb26 style, stopped it just in time the main bearings are so worn that they got squashed into a U shape I guess this is the risk you take buying a built car. Thoughts? Do you agree or disagree with wrong bearing clearances being the cause? Motor was running 2000kms old 10w-60 Castrol TWS Pics for your enjoyment

I am after an rb26 crank (r32-34 is fine) and the brackets that go from the turbos to the block. PM or contact on 0402 465 128 is fine. Location - ideally NSW. Thank you!

I have the complete kits including a brand new unused thermo switch since i used ECU fan controller. The electric fans have been used for about 2 months in total and are in brand new condition. 2x http://www.daviescraig.com.au/Thermatic_Fans-DCSL12_INCH_FAN_KIT__12_VOLT___PART_No__0062-details.aspx 1x http://www.daviescraig.com.au/Controller___Switches-MECHANICAL_THERMAL_SWITCH__12V___24V____PART_No__0401-details.aspx Plus relays and wiring so you can bolt this straight onto your car. The new cost just for the fans and thermo switch is $360 plus cost of the dual relays and wiring. Im after $250ono for the lot, Pickup in Sydney would be ideal.

Hey mate, Red stuff is probably too much for street only. If you dont drive the car hard on the street then I would say go for a less aggressive pad. I have had bad experience with red stuff so generally wouldn't recommend EBC but for street only purposes im sure they would do the job. For a street only driven car I would bother with getting pmu pads from japan, there is decent cheaper alternatives locally like EBC, Ferodo, QFM etc.

Plan failed, cant get the right pads from Japan and dont want to pay $430 locally so im looking into other options. In case anyone needs new pads, Nengun is doing an awesome deal: http://www.nengun.com/project-mu/brake-pad-campaign Buy a front set get a rear set free until mid June.

So i went ahead and ordered a set of Endless N35s which are meant to be slightly less aggressive and more progressive than the PC35 however handle the same heat (around 800 deg). Should have them in around 3 weeks.

I went for a drive in my mates car with the PC35s but wasnt able to get them hot (light car, big brakes, urban driving!) they felt very aggressive when cold and squealed heaps, very similar to the DTC-60s I used to have on my old car. I have driven another car with the PC35s and they felt great but not sure if its comparable since that was mid engine. Interestingly, I also tried another car yesterday which had DS2500 (same as mine now) and they felt way more aggressive, im pretty sure my current 2500s are stuffed since they feel nothing like they should. I overheated DS2500s in the past and they still worked fine but fell off off the backing plate in fiery chunks so I cant imagine what has happened to this set lol.

No problem! Given your brakes have been bled a few times I doubt mistakes would have been made every time. Im sure the HC+ will fix the problem but I have heard those pads squeal badly, hence why I would rather just go for a full race pad rather than a street/track pad that squeals anyway Btw in case you are used to non ABS Nissan brakes, all the ABS equipped cars do feel heaps spongier in general. Because your new pads will have heaps more bite it will cover this up a bit. Im going to try out the PC35s on a mates car tomorrow before making up my mind.

Hey mate, In short, the pads are your problem and new ones will change the feel and stopping power. Bendix ultimate should never be fitted to a car as heavy and powerful as yours I have DS2500s on my 32r and even they have the same issue to a lesser extent than you. On my old car I became accustomed to using race pads at all times, once you get used to race pads it feels like you cant stop when switching back. At the moment im choosing between Ferodo DS Uno (replacement for DS3000) or some Endless PC35. If the were the same price I would choose Endless for sure, but the DS Uno are $269 and PC35 around $420 from local shops in my pad shape.

Hi Charles, Not interested in these tyres but in case this helps - I have used many different road and trackday style tyres including two set of RSRs. Overall, the RSRs are one of the best wet weather tyres I have driven on. I even used them on a wet track day once and could easily drive past anyone whether they were on semis or road tyres, they are super predictable and have great grip in the wet, unless you buy some high end road tyres these will be better in the wet and no comparison in the dry

Pics of the passenger side rail, it looks brand new. If someone wants the seat as well ill sell both seat and rail for $300 or make an offer. it can be used on drivers or passenger side (the bride seats are all the same, just different rails). As mentioned above the recline mechanism doesn't lock and I don't know if you can fix it or not, as it is right now you cannot use the seat unless is it fixed somehow.

Just installed R33 GTR seats in my R32 GTR to find out the seat belt buckles are too wide to plug in. Not sure which model to get the buckle from, are R32 larger than R33 or do I just have larger buckles than usual? I checked the belts, they are Australian so must have been changed during compliance.

I installed some R33 GTR seats and the male side of the seat belt buckle is too large to fit into the female side. Im guessing the R33 ones are a different size or maybe my seat belt bucks are different. Anyone have a set of seat belt buckles? Ideally in Sydney.

Found a set, thank you.

Drivers seat and rail sold. Passenger side seat rail is still for sale $220 brand new condition. Passenger seat is not for sale since the recliner adjustment mechanism doesnt lock properly.

I have some for sale, brand new condition: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/423441-syd-bride-gias-iii-carbon-and-bride-low-max-rails/#entry6814198

Check this out: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/423441-syd-bride-gias-iii-carbon-and-bride-low-max-rails/#entry6814198