siksII

An update on the Hankook RS2s.. I have done a fair few hard kms on them now and have a really good feel for them. After driving on a fair few wet roads since last time i think they are pretty crap in the rain. Not crap compared to a rubbish tyre like a falken 326, but crap when compared with a good all weather tyre like a Toyo T1-R or a Dunlop sp sport maxx. On damp roads they are very good, if the road is actually wet then caution is required. That said, they are predictable and the low level of wet grip in some ways makes them easier to handle. Now for the good news, dry road grip! In terms of cornering they are excellent, sidewalls feel stiff, and when they do lose traction they do so reasonably progressively. Another good point is that thye take a beating very well. With other tyres I have owned, after a hard drive the tread would tend to get hot/melt and look nasty. With the Hankooks even after long hard driving they still look perfect, no tearing or melting of the tread A weird thing i have noticed is that the straight line acceleration grip is not comparable with cornering grip. They seem to have masses of grip in cornering which makes you expect a lot of grip in a straight line... and although they hold my power fine i can tell they wont hold much more. In conclusion, i highly recommend these tyres.. Considering they are really a dry weather tyre halfway between a road tyre and r compound they do their job well, especially for the price!

If you are putting them on a skyline and you dont want your speedo to be out the closest match to stock (205/55/16 225/50/16) is 255/40/17 245/40 is close as well but 245/45 is by memory 3.3% too fast. I currently have 245/45 but have always in the past had 255/40, i think this is a better size than the 245s which have a taller sidewall but get slightly stretched across the rim. I believe stock r33gtr is 245/40 but most owners just replace with 245/45 due to availability. 265s usually bulge out a bit on 9inch rims, doesnt look good IMO and probably allows for a bit more sidewall flex. Read the tyre thread for opinions on tyres. With that budget you can get top of the range street tyres so it just depends on what compromise you want.

Thats reassuring i guess.. Not sure if it means anything but it has never powered speakers, always had it hooked up to an amp for speakers and sub via RCAs just like it still is. It isnt directly connected to any speakers. The only sound that comes out of it is the nasty constant humming noise, this happens in every mode and regardless of volume. Before i pull it out i plan on connecting up my ipod(or something!) with a 3.5mm--->2rca cable to my amp to see if the amps and speakers play music normally, if they do then i was going to assume that it is head unit related. Would that be an ok test?

Thanks for replying.. from memory the unit cost me around $350ish and i know that electrical repairs arent cheap so if its stuffed i would really have to weigh up whether it is worth the hassle and $$ of getting it repaired

Sorry in advance for hijacking the thread, but speaking of blown headunits.. I have a Pioneer 5750, maybe 18months old.. I was driving around a roundabout with music playing and suddenly i heard a loud pop and from then onwards all i can hear is a nasty humming sound that pops and crackles... no music at all, but the HU responds and displays everything as usual. When i disconnect the RCAs from the HU to the amp the humming stops, so i am quite sure it is head unit related. I hope its wiring but i don't think it will be as i installed the unit myself, i soldered and heat shrunk all the wiring, no electrical tape anywhere. Before i pull it out to have a fiddle/check, any advice? Is it most likely stuffed?

Well according to plenty of UOAs from plenty of people using Delvac 1 in their petrol engines there is only evidence that it protects the engine very well. There is no evidence of more wear on any part of the engine compared with other good quality full synth engine oils. In some ways the Devlac 1 is regarded as a better formulation than M1 5w-50 due to less viscosity modifier(more base stock) and better additives. I dont think the generalisation that you shouldn't run diesel oils in a petrol engine applies when talking about Delvac 1, and I don't see how the opinion of race engine builders applies when considering the lubrication requirements for a factory built road driven engine with long drain intervals. Caution is not required, results show otherwise

Delvac 1 which is what i have referred to is a fully synthetic oil. There is a cheaper version of Delvac which is not fully synthetic. Mobil 1 is approx $70/5L, Delvac 1 is $50-60/5L, so i dont think that makes is terrible value for money. Im sure the points you have made are valid but you are generalising. Delvac one has a HT/HS of 4.1, Mobil 1 has s HT/HS of 4.2, they are not significantly different in their level of protection. Edit: When i say Mobil i mean the 5w-50.

Ill start by saying that in the US where Delvac 1 (fully synthetic 5w-40) is readily available, it is a very popular choice for enthusiasts, and it has always given good UOA results. I use it in my Skyline and have not noticed any adverse effects compared to the petrol engine oil i was using before although I have not done any UOA so i cant say for sure, but for the price is is a great engine oil. Now to quote Mobil themselves : " Question: Mobil 1 vs. Mobil Delvac 1® for a Gasoline Engine I have read on the Internet that Mobil Delvac 1 oils may provide better performance in high-performance passenger-car engines than regular Mobil 1, since they meet CF-4 specs. What about using Delvac in gasoline engines, especially high-performance engines? -- "Tribological", Richmond, VA Answer: Mobil 1 formulas will deliver everything you need for your gasoline engine. In fact, during development, tests are run in both gasoline and diesel engines to demonstrate the superior performance of Mobil 1. Mobil Delvac 1, which is designed for heavy-duty diesels, meets most diesel engine oil specifications, and also meets API SL certification. And because Delvac 1 operates in a different environment – diesel engines run longer, generate soot and run hotter, it contains different types and amounts of additives than Mobil 1. Even so, Delvac 1 still meets API SL certification for gasoline engines, and because of its high performance, we would expect it to do a good job of protecting your gasoline engine. If you use your gasoline vehicle in "heavy-duty" service, Delvac 1 will provide many benefits compared to conventional oils. When compared to Mobil 1 performance, those benefits may not be as obvious, and in fact, Mobil 1 would be expected to outperform Delvac 1 in many gasoline applications. " http://www.mobiloil.com/USA-English/MotorO...ine_Engine.aspx

I have had a good drive on the Hankook RS-2s now, in the dry and torrential rain. Dry grip is very good, however i am still not sure if they are fully scrubbed in yet, the tread itself feels quite stiff and even after hard driving where the tread on most tyres would get torn up a bit they look like new. Either way, the grip so far is very good and predictable, they are similar in dry grip to toyo t1-rs but i think they will improve with more use. In the wet they are good, they dont aquaplane even on flooded roads, and they hold second gear (186rwkw) but they are not as good as the t1-rs i had on before which were genuinely grippy in the rain. Sidewalls are nice and stiff, which helps to make them predictable in wet and dry. I think ill have to drive on the them a bit more before a final verdict.

With my T1-Rs although they seemed great even driving out of the tyre shop, i made sure they were run in and it did happen overnight. A good 400km round trip on one of my favorite roads the day after i got them left no doubts

In my experience it depends on the tyres, with my last set of T1-Rs they performed as good as they ever would pretty much instantly.. with my last set of Dunlop SP Sport Maxxs it was not long before they were grippy, less than 50km.. i just got a set of hankook Z212 RS-2s, when i first got them it was like driving on oil, i have now driven about 280km on them and they have improved but i still dont trust them. I predict they will probably become good with 100km of hard driving or 200-300km of normal driving.

Justjap advertises rb25 boxes for $3200 so i assume you could get them even cheaper shopping around direct from Nissan. http://justjap.com/parts_ngearbox.htm

Contact T187 on this forum http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...?showuser=28720 He should be able to point you towards some very well priced semi slicks

Yeah 165 each, i cant give a definitive answer on them now, i have not scrubbed them in properly yet, but so far they feel like they will be very good and the sidewalls feel nice and stiff. I will write up a review once i 'test' them properly I read up a lot before i purchased, and the general consensus seems to be that they are similar to a Falken RT-615; slightly better in the wet, slightly worse in the dry and a bit less prone to overheating. There is a Grassroots magazine review floating around the net which compares the Hankooks and other street/track tyres, its a good read if you are interested.

I don't need to help the cruise control in my r33 by booting it into hills, it maintains speed just fine, maybe gains a bit down hills, but not much. I believe it improves safety as when i have the cruise it takes a lot longer for me to get fatigued, which in the end leads to lapses in concentration. It should not be used on country back roads when things can pop out at you, but on a dual carriageway freeway i dont see negatives to using it.

just a heads up for Sydney people, Hankook has a special on 245/45/17 Z212 RS2s, normally around $230+, i got a set for $165. You should be able to get this price from any Hankook dealer since its a special from the supplier, i got mine from Jax in Kensington (Anzac Parade)

I just bought some tyres yesterday that i needed to be stored. I dont have a place that will stay cool which is unfortunate, i cling wrapped them and put them in the shed. Its a shame it gets hot in there. So if you cant find a large plastic bag to keep them in, use cling wrap

I cant believe i missed this thread, i know its late........but can i come?

adsl2+, exchange is 1 block away.

Have a look here, im not sure if the prices are below retail but i assume they are at least a little bit.. http://stores.ebay.com.au/TasAutosport_Whe...6QQftidZ2QQtZkm

Ive did that course a few years ago, and spectated about 1 year ago while a friend did a course at the same venue.. If you have a parent insured with aami it is free if you are under 21 (thats how i got it free) Its a good course to do, especially if you have not been to any sort of skidpan or track event before, but dont expect an adrenaline rush of a day They focus on the basics and at low speed, most exercises are done easy below 60km/h. Braking, emergency maneuvers and some cornering but you cant fool around Either way i recommend it and it will probably be an eye opener. This course run by Murcotts is very similar, $277 but they have had specials in the past where it is $99 http://www.murcott.com.au/defensivedrivinglevel1.php

I called them for a quote, left my phone number and was told i would get a call back later that afternoon.. It has been days since then and still no call. Had that experience with Famous Classic a couple of times too, and i have a policy with them. Guess you cant expect too much from smaller companies!

Young drivers may be quicker thinking, but this quicker thinking by no means always results in the RIGHT decision! Yeah right, have you seen them all drive at 10/10ths? Fair call about car control, but have you ever really pushed your car? Or are you talking about the street? We should be able to control them better?? Typical overconfident driver. Have you been to any sort of driving course with professionals to see how good at 'control' you really are?

my gf has one, i have only used castrol magnatec and mobil synth s 10w-40 both changed 5-7000kms and i have found that the hydraulic lifters are quieter with the mobil synth s oil, but tend to get noisy at the end of the oil change interval again, so try a different oil.

Sure will! Most people will think you are an idiot hoon no matter what if you are driving an import/modified looking/p-plates on car type of vehicle in Sydney so i sure do put my foot down and enjoy having a squirt whenever i can, and just smile back at the disapproving fools that pull up next to me and give me nasty looks. It sounds bad, but i figure things will only get worse, the population is getting older and more conservative when it comes to road use, so i think its a lost cause trying to set a good example to the tailgating idiots who cant stay in their lanes which makes up most of the drivers in Sydney CBD. Attitudes are a problem, and they sure wont be changed with few more restrictions in place. Skylinecoupe, i don't really understand what the point of your post is, but if you think restrictions and that road safety board and their rushed too late "OMG we have to save lives so lets fast track" decisions are the way to save lives you are the naive one.