siksII

Seat and rails brand new condition, zero wear. Seats are replica, rails are genuine with manuals, suit R32-34. Seats are too narrow for me hence the sale. Price Drivers and passenger rails - $450 together (These are $320 each new) Drivers seat only - $300 (these are around $550 each or $800/set new) Ill make a good deal with anyone willing to take all 3 items Location: Sydney Pick up only for seat I can post the rails at buyers expense. Contact: PM or call 0402 465 128 any time.

Would like a pair with no stains or tears. PM or sms 0402 465 128 Thank you!

Penrite SIN - $21 for 500ml. I used to use RBF600 and haven't noticed a difference, temp ratings are close but price is less.

Agreed, that would be extremely embarrassing haha. Any of the hawk track pads I have used work perfect from cold. They are more aggressive than say DS2500s, they sound like they are angle grinding the disks when cold

You will tend to do that anyway since the noise from most track pads is so bad you try and avoid braking in general haha.

Its mainly due to b - harshness when not up to temp.

No probs, I have not used the A1RM myself but there is heaps of feedback on them on here. For track only pads I have used Hawk HT-10, DTC-60 and DTC-70, world of difference compared to street/track pads like the DS2500. 2500s are a good compromise pad which can still take a decent amount of abuse but nothing compared to a track pad. In case you go for Hawks, I get them from here http://www.hawkpadsdirect.com/ since last I checked they are heaps cheaper than any local supplier.

DS2500 is good for a street car that sometimes get used on the track. Sounds like you are using your car on track and for hard driving most of the time so I would recommend going with a track only pad rather than something like DS2500.

I have been using Hawk DTC-60 on front of my GTS-T and HT-10 on the rear for a while now. They wear slowly, never really fade and work from cold but they are designed as a track only pad.. really bad dust, noise etc. You can get them cheap from http://www.hawkpadsdirect.com/ so for the money i think they are hard to beat. Only thing is they are super super aggressive so take some getting used to. Personally I would suggest a pad thats easier to modulate (they will generally say something like "less initial bite") esp if you arent used to really high friction pads. If you dont mind spending more $$ then some of the project mu or endless track only pads would be my first choice.

I bought it to replace the clutch i already have which works fine but is annoying to use... Before I ended up installing I did a power upgrade so left the existing clutch in since this new one probably wont hold the new power (250+rwkw)

Offers?

Pads start wearing that quickly when they get too hot. Use a higher heat rated pad and you will get a few track days out of one set.

Hey mate, I am running DTC-60 front and HT-10 rear as you cant get the DTCs for the rear (last i checked). For a track only car this combination works, it is slightly overkill and you will probably need some time to get used to how aggressive they are ie initial bite is very strong. What tyres are you going to run on the track? If if you are not used to braking on the track and are not using R compound or slicks then I would recommend against these pads.

Haha nah I run one of the grippiest street tyres you can get, with my power I can usually get full traction even in first on a good surface... Federal 595 RSR. You just wait till till they overheat a little on the track then flick it sideways and paint all you like I run full boost, 251rwkw around 17psi. Did you go to the SAU track day on Saturday?

I use DTC-60s front and HT-10 rear for street and track. They will punish your rotors a bit and can be ridiculously noisy with street use but its too hard to accept the crap performance of street pads once you try these. I was previously using DS2500s and didnt want to go back to them after using the DTCs. Im on to my second set now. I did some express bedding in before the NSCC track day on Sunday and they completely caught fire haha!!! Even when on fire they were working 100% I have not tried race brakes however you might want to compare prices with http://www.hawkpadsdirect.com/ I get mine sent EMS for $260, last I checked in Sydney a couple of years ago another brake shop quoted me $430 hence choosing to buy from overseas.

Good to hear your result Birds. I still need to post my updated dyno result. Its funny how before there weren't results for the ss1pu, I posted mine and everyone is acting like there is something majorly wrong with the car when it initially made 242kw.. Meanwhile now we have: Birds 252kw Kasko 250kw Myself 251kw And that now appears to be accepted as normal. Gotta love forum e-mechanics On another note, I took my car to Wakefield park on Sunday...I think I may have had a bad batch of fuel since it was pinging on the freeway during the drive down however I put in a new batch of fuel then 'tested'' it after which it didnt ping at all so decided to take it to the track. Only did 4 sessions and was taking it easy since I didnt want to risk the car but the turbo is pretty nice on the track. Good power to use out of corners, more top end would be nice but whereas the car felt super underpowered on the track with the stock turbo, it now feels... i wouldnt say fast, but normal. The turbo is torquey enough to lay long black lines out of corners in 3rd gear if you wish, nice to see them getting longer and longer in the rear view

Yeah fair enough - you could use a spacer on one side to even the looks out

I have noticed this in many GTST's GTRs, 180sx, s14/s15 etc, I wouldn't worry about it, probably normal.

So here is the latest from the tuner, I have not driven it since ill be picking it up in the morning. -Wastegate was not opening due to not being able to move freely in its bush, it was jammed up, this is a problem with the turbo itself -They pulled the dump pipe and moved the flap back and forth by hand which freed it up -Original wastegate actuator seemed sticky, not opening and closing freely as mentioned before. Changed to new 15psi actuator-Its now running 17psi max, reaches this around 3400 rpm -Makes power much more easily and freely due to the wastegate fix, power curve has moved to earlier in rev range -Makes 10rwkw more, now 251 kw at 6500rpm whereas before it made 242 at 6900rpm Im still using the 595 RSR tyres since I could not get a hold of a set of normal tyres to try with, and this dyno is definitely not a high reading one so im sure with usual tyres and another dyno it could read 260rwkw.. I guess its not too far off what I expected. Car is also running cooler due to some cooling system maintenance stuff that was done, shouldnt see the temps go up as much anymore. I will upload dyno graphs and what its like to drive after I pick up the car tomorrow. All in all, the car makes more power on lower boost, more easily, without the turbo heating up like crazy due to the faulty wastegate flap and runs cooler so cant complain

Powerfc. Yes, the gauge did show the boost going way over 20psi however I figured the gauge was showing wrong since its only a 20psi gauge so it was maxxed out (when it was tuned it was hitting 21psi from the actuator only and now it will hit 24 with no other changes) However... I must say that during the only big 300km testing drive I did I pretty much never looked at the gauge, had my eyes glued on the road. Sometimes it felt like the car was down on power but I cant say if that was in my head or not. Since the car started missing gradually more and more after the tune I think the extra boost would be contributing. On my long drive, it did stop missing for periods and then would start again which makes me think it was running inconsistent boost. Yes, something is failing, the actuator - it has failed as I mentioned! lol. The car is not tuned for the high boost it sometimes hits hence yes, it probably is leaning out!

Update. So within one week I found the following issues: -The plastic pipe inside the air con drain pipe has melted nearly shut so it now leaks into the cabin -I heat wrapped the dump now so hopefully doesnt get worse and will somehow repair the air con drain hole -It started missing between 4500 and 5000rpm and the miss has gotten worse Driving wise.. Took it for a 300km solid run of open/tight twisties and found the following: -Water temp now gets near 100 degrees where before it would get to mid-high 80s max on the same road -The turbo is getting crazy hot, not sure if its normal but after a decent run and then letting the car cool for at least 5 mins (cruising at say 80-100km/h) i popped the bonnet and the entire exhaust side of the engine was glowing since the turbo was glowing so bright. The dump pipe was not glowing so im assuming the exhaust wasnt getting very hot which indicates to me it wasnt being restrictive.. but I have never seen a turbo glow that bright. Even all the turbo bolts and studs were glowing! -The car was pinging now and then -Even with the new power, my chassis setup can easily handle it, you can still wring the car out pretty hard even with 240+rwkw and it feels like more power would be better Troubleshooting (the actuator failed!) So.... dropped it back to the tuner today to get it re tuned with the lower pressure actuator, and he found that the actuator that the ss1pu came with had already failed. It was getting randomly jammed open/shut hence the car was sometimes running too much boost when it shouldnt. This would explain the random pinging. He also found that the wastegate flap seems to be fouling or is jammed since it can only open about 5mm and said this is not normal. He has removed the dump pipe to investigate.

This is 100% brand new Price $400 ono pick up or postage is fine. This is the genuine kit in the Pink Exedy box with throw out bearing Part number NSK-7056HD Compatible with: R31 (RB20DET), R32 (RB20DE & RB20DET), R33 (RB25DE & RB25DET) & R34 (RB20DE & RB25DE) Pm or reply here please.

Agreed. Honestly, most people I have met (in person) who are concerned with stock response blah blah have never been in a laggier but fast car.. once they experience that they forget about off boost and at low rpm issues. Same with with NA is best crowd - ive lost count of how many of those people i have taken for a ride after which they shut up about NA and suddenly want to buy a new turbo car lol

Yep, normal SS1PU This is true with the SS1PU compared to stock - I noticed on the freeway in 5th gear more than anything - light throttle and 10psi gives you better acceleration than flooring it on 10psi with the stock turbo.

Good to hear you got it fitted. Wouldnt using the stock comp housing make this different to the actual SS1PU? If we are to directly compare this turbo is definitely more laggy and not as responsive as stock below 3000rpm (not that i personally care about stock drivability) However - I must say because the way it sounds, spools etc imo it feels nicer than the stocker at those low rpms and is still very drivable