siksII

i need a retune, and lately i have been driving around with ignition correction of 4-5degrees advance with next to nothing knock, including heavy load upto the redline. it seems like a lot and im not that game to keep advancing until i get it tuned. Is there any risks other than knocking if i keep advancing it? And how much have you guys advanced the timing from a base map without knocking?

I have had a previous setup with tweeters in the kickpanels and it was no good when anyone sat in the passenger seat(all the time) I would like to point out that your comprehension of the whole topic is incorrect. I said you get what you pay for, and therefore the sound is not good, in relation to other spits, (unless u go find some cheaper ones). You say the point is that the kevlars are good for the money. I disagree, and as metioned above, think they are right for the money. Especially seeing that you have limited experience of them, whereas i listen to a pair all the time in my own car with a range of material, i dont even think you are qualified to make a good judgement. mate, you obivously like arguing, like myself, but have now made some nasty comments, im not a keyboard warrior, so none of them from me. You obviously know it all, and are an audio expert, and i obviously have no idea.

dont get second hand shocks they might be stuffed and it costs money to get them tested properly. best bet is to buy bilsteins from the group buy at the moment, i have bilsteins in my car with whiteline shocks and they are excellent. i used to have hks coil overs. stay away from pillowball tops (ie. the ones than usually come with teins) they wear quickly and start making some knocking noises.

they are H1

He is not making money on the whiteline groupbuy, so no, he does not have a financial interest to bag these products. If he was making lots of money from this the sale would be in the sponsor section, not the groupbuy section. You have an add in your signature for your business, and i have seen you sell bulk stuff in the FS section before, also i guess you know that a lot of guys who read this forum also visit nissansilvia, on which you sell a lot of stuff, now those guys would think twice about buying these products if they did not know otherwise beforehand. Anyway, why not get some bush style adjusters to sell alongside of the the arms, i need a set in the future

i run them off a 2*80 jaycar amp, from line level outputs from the headunit, i have fiddled with settings on the amp and although i prefer not to i have ended up turning the treble down from the headunit. the tweeters are installed above the doortrim, on the plastic triangle that sits begind the mirror mounting. and in case u are confused they are in my car at the moment, not in the past, and i installed them only about 3 or 4 months ago, they are the updated model. mate i know what blind abx tests are and i will bet you i could differentiate between a set of jaycar kevlars in a home bookshelf enclosure and low end bookshelf. Its funny you mention paradigm, as i actually have a set of paradigm titans, which is all u need to compare with the jaycars, no need for higher models. I have also heard the jaycars in their home bookshelf enclosure kit. if u lent me a set of the jaycar bookshelf speakers, i or anyone could do a blind abx test and i am SURE nearly everyone who can hear would pick the paradigms as better sounding, both using the standard crossover as to compare apples with apples. i believe in low cost stuff if it is good, which is why i bought the paradigms. i would have got a set of jaycar bookshelves if they were anywhere near as good. im am starting to think there is part of your ears missing, maybe u are one of those who likes "a really disgusting, shrill, harsh, ear-piercing pain-inducing top end. you need to work in a hi-fi store!!! "

i think the title would apply to more than 99% of people reading it. so maybe for you it is not accurate in case you have a track car, but i think everyone else is fine with it. Maybe you are unhappy about this because you sell adjustable arms and it is affecting your business?

djhatton, i understand what your saying, and i disagree with most of it, so we will leave it at that mine are installed in the stock position but not onto the flimsy plastic mounts, they are installed onto 12mm mdf which is installed onto the door. i was going to sound deaden but ran out of money. if u think the jaycars perform admirably in the midbass department compared to more expensive speakers u need to have a close listen to some other gear. the treble is not just bright, it is reasonably HARSH and no one likes that.

pics or ban

you can buy them off nengun last time i looked.

powerfc, exhaust and 1bar of boost will definetly get u into the low 12s, cam gears are not necessary. a close friends car has only these 3 modifications (standard clutch still) and it has run a 12.3 with room for improvement. And that was a 33gtr, a 32 is lighter so should be easier to get a low 12. so powerfc = 1000 exhaust =1500 tune = 600 around 3000 is enough money. get the powerfc from the forum, any exhaust shop can do the exhaust, and the tune is your personal choice.

Ah ok its good that they sorted it our for you. I have not heard of any problems from anyone else, so i guess you got unlucky! in relation to cowie165, if you think they kevlars are good, you REALLY need to hear some other speakers. Go into a hifi store, and have a listen. U wont get anything for the price of the jaycars, but then again, you wont hear anything as bad either I would say their sound matches their money (cheap), although this may be improved with a different crossover (cut down the tweeters more than u can with the standard xover) personally i think they top end kills the sound, u wont get much midbass out of any cheapish splits, as with the jaycars, but u can at least hope for decent treble which they dont have..

And through fast corners (90km/h and over) it feels as if they tyre has rolled onto its sidewall when u turn in, and it feels like you have driven over a slippery patch of road If you follow a hicas equipped car u can actually see it unsettle the car, a friend described my car as looking like it had driven over a patch of sand whenever turned into high speed sweepers... it really detracts from a good drive it puts me off heaps. i dont see how it could help anyone! i need a hicas lock bar..

saw eric (ecl) tonight at uts, had a chat

last time i was there i got a 15 minute speech about how japan is too small a place to be able to rack up more than a few thousand kms each year, YEAH RIGHT! anyway my point is, you should not assume your kms are genuine, meaning changing at least the timing belt right away, and not waiting another 50,000kms.

sorry double post

take it to a suspension place they can physically measure your wheel alignment regardless of the steering wheel position, and tell u if something is bent or out. in sydney, heasmans can do this.

thats what i was thinking. seeing that the turbo would be on full boost before nearing the redline, it should make the noise whenever its on full boost. i would say it is noise from the engine, not the turbo.

are u sure your wheel alignment is correcT? the steering wheel would not be off centre unless someone has removed it and put it back on wrongly, but if your wheel alignment is off the wheel will not be straight when u are going straight.

i found a red GT badge(like on the side of r33s) IN the door cavity of my old r33. i had pulled off the door trim to find out what the rattle was!

when they stop working not before.

how much was the reciever dryer?

mine stopped working a while ago too, but i have not had time to check wiring and test it. i have heard a few guys have problems with them, i also want to know how to fix them if they are stuffed.

What r31nismoid said, if you shift at the end of your powerband(which i cant ell u wont be the redline if u have the stock turbo) u will be faster. also im assuming all your races have been on the street, and therefore mean nothing, go to the dragstrip and try it out, i have Also i should have explained about the revving thing. the tacho is not correct. true engine revs can be seen on the powerfc handcontroller, if you have one, and this is what i am talking about. the faster the car is revving up the more incorrect it seems, ie in lower gears the tacho does not keep up with the revs up the top, which is why when is shows 7000 it is in reality lower, which is why u can rev it into the red zone and it looks like u are revving at like 7300 or something.

well thats dedication! i bet the ass of your car sits a lot lower now! also i feel really sorry for your bootlid, it really neads some sound deadening!