siksII

awesome, at least u got it sorted quickly!

there will be a BIG difference if the car is warm, try it and see.

hey mate, so how much did u turn the ratio up to get a steady 1.3bar? also last night the boost was most definetly turned UP not down, it must have been for some other reason (like wrxhoons car) that it was not running full boost...

i will probably be there too

it will be tuned for jap fuel it will probably ping so be careful and change it asap

Ive been ok, but wayyyy too much work so busy as well, have not really been out on cruises lately either. about 900 is what i expected, in addition to r&r i think you should steer clear of places that want $500 to r&r the gearbox, this should be no more than $300. what is wrong with the box anyway? cant handle crunches ?

u cant service them, but you can bleed them, im not sure how but if you search someone has posted how to before i read it a while ago.

mine is sticky taped into the stock bracket. (33 gtst)

they are ALL clunky/crunch into second dont worry.

hey matt long time no see, i cant help you but am interested in how much this costs, what are the quotes you have got so far? what do they include? (synchros bearing etc??)

well unless it was complied a long time ago i would say nissan. i have a cat on my car that was fitted about 6 years ago and it still looks new, which is why i think that would be the original one since it looks old.

i dont see why you would want to insure it for more than 19k, seeing that most 95gtsts sell for less than that, and there is no hard value u can put on them ie. redbook. hence the question who much did u get it for.. and if u did get get it for more im pretty sure u would have to have some proof that u did pay more for it, ie stamp duty when u bought the car.

well how much did u buy the car for? and do u have evidence that you bought it for that much, ie. wrote it down for paying stamp duty when you bought the car?

i doubt it would be worn like that, but anyway as an example i had a compression test done for a friends car one gauge read 160psi across first few cylinders before getting jammed, grabbed another working compression gauge it read 140psi across the cylinders.

comfortable, as much power as practical, not too hard edged (NVH) but good road handling, dont care too much about track, as long as it can handle the occasional track thrashing

i will be watching this sunday, and ill be going to the race in the EC who else is coming?

yeah i doubt the diff would be that much of a problem. best to save money for other stuff that might break. either way, cubes, for you info you can get 1.5 or 2way kaaz lsds brand new to your door for $1150 with 2 bottles of oil, so i think 8-900 for a second hand is a bit on the dearer side http://www.nissansilvia.com/forums/index.p...c=76985&hl=diff

u can get a second hand 1.5 way for a few hundered bucks ring importers/compliancers..

yeah your car is a very clean one, one of the best ive seen, i see what u mean, lots of extra power compared to before cant be bad! i guess when u get your car back you will have plenty of fun frying your current tyres before u get some new ones

what exact model of tyres do u have? if it spins third trust me mass, they cant be good i got some new toyo t1rs, and although i dont have much power they are like night and day compared to my old tyres. you dont really believe the odo do you

In my gtst, i have hit the limiter several times since i have owned it, with a regular power fc. A few things i have noticed. 1. Its not accurate, as others have noted, i have my limit set at 6900, and i have seen ~7100 as peak rpm 2. It has NEVER showed a higher than normal ping reading after hitting the limiter, my ping readings are very low, usually around 10. 3. The only odd thing i have noticed when hitting the limiter is plenty of popping(rich pops) and i dont understand how that happens when there is meant to be no fuel. (i dont know what my afrs are, i need a retune its very rich)

it means u have a series 1 r33, and the compressor wheel is steel, but the wheel in the exhaust is still ceramic. the difference is the wheel in the intake of later r33 and r34s was nylon.

as long as its quite even chances are its fine, the actual value can be low/high depending on lots of factors such as battery, engine hot/cold etc. leak down will confirm as blind_elk suggests

tempe is in sydney

direzzas (dz101s) are decent tyres for the power u have, it will be your suspension that u should fix..