siksII

The compressor side looks larger than the standard trust housing (And the trust housing has Trust logo etc..) although it could be due to the polishing.. Do you have any details about the compressor housing? Thanks again

Hey mate How old is the hi flow? Approximately how many kms? Do you have a receipt for it? Thanks.

Hey mate, A few questions: -Does this fit an R33 -Are these items from a genuine Trust turbo kit? ie is the turbo and manifold trust branded? -Do you have water/oil lines -Do you have any other parts from the kit such as the dump and intake piping? -When did it come on boost and full boost on your RB25? Thanks!

Hi Johnny, we cannot use R32 rotors with R33 disks for the reasons you mentioned.

I have 17x8 +32 on the front and they look heaps sunken now with the extra camber. Considering spacers. None of the stock bushes in the front end are offset but the only one you can get it the upper control arm kit which gives an extra - or + 0.5

Ill remeasure mine when I get home if you like but from memory im at 355mm at the front. I run whiteline springs on bilsteins so they are about 1inch lower than stock. Assuming yours is 35mm lower than mine (heaps!) and i get about -3.1-3.2 i would guess that maxxed out your camber should be around -3.5 or more. How much camber does it have now? you can assume around -1 more degree with the cuscos on max.

Hey mate, i just fitted mine a few weeks ago along with the whiteline bushes. The arms give approx 1deg more than you have already and the bushes give 0.5. You can get 3.5 depending on ride height, i got just over 3 with bushes and arms maxed out. http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/R3...me-t336611.html

From peoples comments it seems that the A1RM wears rotors nearly as bad as a dedicated track pad but with lower performance. I have not personally tried to A1RM but it seems everyone agrees those pads are aggressive on rotors for daily driving. You often compare them to DS2500s which are more expensive. When comparing the two we should note that the DS2500s are very friendly on rotors, by this I mean there is no way you would wear out a set of rotors in 20,000kms from daily driving with a bit of track work. So fair enough the A1RM is cheaper but if used as a crossover pad as you suggest but will probably end up costing you the same or more as using DS2500s due to rotor replacement costs. On the other hand they sound like a reasonable track only pad for their low price.

Physically fixing the car is the easy part, what I find mechanics struggle with is communication, timeliness, honesty and respect for customers. I have never seen as consistently bad customer service in any other industry. Too many know it all tools with no brains that think they are gods gift to their workshop.

It happens These are of a friend's car, so far mine have held up well.

Yeah i doubt it too.. but your example of using a 25w-50 instead of a 5 or 10w 40 im pretty sure you would tell a difference on startup. a 25w will be massively thicker when cold than a synthetic 5 or 10w which prob = noisy motor when cold and relatively excessive wear until its at normal temp.

Not doubting you. The fact that a group of your mates didnt have a problem and a group of my mates did perceive a problem is a perfect example of why I struggle with people saying 'this oil is good and that oil is bad' just going off their gut feeling which is most of the time all about what they have heard and how much they have paid.

Thanks mate, I indirectly got mine through Streeter. Caster is on max with bushes (around 6-7 deg) and aim for zero toe on the front. -1.5 deg is plenty for cruising around but imo if you want to have a bit of fun sometimes in the corners 1.5 on the front is not much help. On the other hand I wouldnt be running over -3deg front and -2.5 rear as I am now if I was daily driving the car.

Performance wise for a street pad with some hard driving mixed in they are ok but I would heavily recommend against them since they are really bad for dust, eat rotors and in my experience always cause shudder issues when hot.

Hey mate, The guys I heard from usually changed oil every 5000kms, after around 2-3000kms they reported their motors not running right. After an oil change it would be back to normal (all on sr20s) This is subjective feedback but from multiple people so as much as im against the whole touchy feely judgement of motor oil, when a bunch of guys report negatively.... Although those F1 teams advertise elf I would bet they dont use any off the shelf formulations so thats irrelevant.

Some people i knew started using it around 2 years ago when a bunch of places in Sydney started stocking it. Subjective feedback was negative and those people no longer use it.

What rear settings are people using for track use on R33 GTS-Ts? Im getting the car aligned today and have not settled on how much camber and if I will dial in some toe out or not.

In case you wernt sure I also notice you have adjustable upper control arm bushes, you can adjust camber with these by loosening the nut and turning the bolt clockwise.

No probs, I forgot to answer your initial question! Should be the pads, if it was fluid the pedal would be soft. Pads that cant handle much heat can get permanently cooked/fall apart just from one thrashing and it sounds like thats what has happened If you can be bothered, post some pics of the pads once you have them out.

Looks the same as 03Gs, being M1 they are medium compound. With as much tread as shown in the pic they will be fine in the wet. Be cautious of standing water otherwise they are perfectly safe.

I would suggest that generally when going from a less aggressive to more aggressive pad people shouldnt have a problem - the other way around can be more of a struggle. I can confirm that all the following combos are fine (all going from street to track pads on same rotors) ebc red stuff - hawk ht-10 ferodo ds performance - hawk dtc 60/70 ferodo ds2500 - hawk dtc 60 ferodo ds2500 - hawk ht 10 ferodo ds2500 - ferodo ds3000 hawk hp plus - hawk dtc 60/70 Adding to this, I know plenty of people (including myself) who all swap street to track pads with the same rotors who dont have a problem and have been doing so for years. Its not necessary to to swap rotors along with pads, it would make more sense to find a pad combo that works.

Bushes and arms are in. As estimated they have delivered and extra -1.5 deg camber, Bushes give -0.5 and arms -1. Total camber is now -3deg with 355mm hub to guard A few observations -Dont be shy when removing the stock bushes, I used vice grips, a pry bar, a hammer and anger -In my opinion you should not be using the bolt/adjustment setup that comes with the whiteline camber adjustment kit, its rubbish -The problem is worse when using the cusco arms -One bolt is way too short, the other is too long so you can bottom it out in the metal bush centre and therefore adjust it by continuing to turn it clockwise once bottomed out. Meanwhile it comes with a tiny nut to hold the bolt against the side of the control arm. This is a stupid method which doesnt seem safe/strong, I value my safety so I bought my own correct length bolts that reach nearly all the way into the centre, I wont be adjusting -The small allen key head cusco nuts round easily and loosen even when tightened to the point just before it feels like they will round -I settled on using loctite, marking all of them and will be checking them regularly The trick to installing the new bushes is to place both halves in first and then press the centre in from one side. If you get one side in and then try and press the other bush in it just doesnt seem to budge. I think this is because the space in between the bushes inside the control arm is airtight, there is no space for the air to escape so so bush will not go all the way. Does anyone know how approximately how much the toe changes when you change camber, i.e if I go from -3deg and 0 toe to -2deg, what will the new toe be? Im assuming it will toe out with less camber but not sure how much.

Agreed. Birds - how do you know that M5000 is just as good but with shorter intervals? Thats a very general statement and on paper/during normal use its probably true..... but since a few of us here give our cars frequent workouts I cant say I agree with you. Since you dont believe in UOA you cant prove otherwise either apart from the whole touchy feely (most of the time imagined) aspect. In addition to this, most ester oils are biased towards racing and from my understanding most racing oils feature less detergents. With this in mind, although the ester oil may break down slower in some ways it may also be suited to more frequent oil changes due to low levels of detergents/dispersants - something to consider.

I have Minimax. They are all made in Japan or Germany - got one set as a gift 5 years ago, heaps of abuse and nothing has broken. Friends have mostly Kincrome, we have not had any problems with them and they are always nice to use. Recently bought a 1/2 inch set so I stop using my 3/8 set to do 1/2 inch jobs Have not used it much yet. Last pic shows the ratchet with 32mm socket attached.

Rolls thats very interesting I never knew the timing had an effect on piston slap when cold, do you know why? Wacky - im not saying its the case with your car - but over the years I have seen plenty of cars with rebuilt motors where the owner/sales person does not know about it. Its unusual on the GTT but very common with GTRs, just something to keep in mind. If the sound was the same sound that is in those youtube videos then im surprised your mechanics did not point out the noise. Do you have stock ecu? If so then why not set the timing to 17 and see if the noise comes back? If it does at least you will know for sure what triggers the noise.