siksII

3asts1d3!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! im usually out around the 3asts1d3 on sundays, but where is victoria park? its not a suburb is it, if it is i dont know it!

sent

if u are talking about a standard one, it doesnt attach to the top of the struts, the bar itself is attached to a black bracket on either side, which is attached to the back of the strut tower on two studs either side, (in the boot) you can see it when u remove the boot trim. if u have a brace that actually attaches to the top of the the struts, u can access them by removing the rear parcel shelf from inside the car.

it is normal for the tyres to wear more on the inside on a gtr, so dont worry about that. make sure the outside diameter of the tyres is exactly the same front and rear otherwise you will have problems with the handling. this is why usually with gtrs people get the same width and diameter wheels/tyres front and back. with a gtr even with cheap tyres you will be ok for straight line grip, but for braking and cornering good tyres make a huge difference. depends how much you value braking and cornering, especially in the wet. with the type of performance u get from a gtr i would not put cheap tyres on. but cheap is cheaper than 250 so im assuming u mean decent tyres, what brand model and size were u quoted on?

well from sydney(city) all the way to singleton its about 220km as far as i can remember.

i might be in i went putty road on friday night until we were 25km from singleton. it was the best driving road i have been on ever, it just goes on and on! i ran over a hare though, only made a mess on the road.. on the way back it was crap as we went on some wierd road we didnt know with dirt patches, wooden bridges, a bush pig and lots of kangaroos so took it very easy. altogether from the city till back home i did 450km between 11pm and 6am, wore in my new tyres well

last week i put some new TOYO T1-Rs (255/40/17) on the rear of my car, i went for a 450km drive on friday night, and i cant report back that now the car sticks to road like glue!!! my previous rear tyres were worn and had gone hard and very slippery, and either way in comparison with any other tyre i have used, the T1-Rs are by far the best. the grip is insane, it is hard to get sideways at all even in 1st gear!!! as an example, going around wide hairpins with my previous tyres i would have exited at around 60km/h, with the T1-Rs i left the corner going around 80!!!! and second gear corners have become third gear corners!! and this is all with falken 326's on the front, only the rears changed! they are also quieter than my old yokahamas(read below) and have a softer ride. only strange thing is, now i can feel the hicas and with the old tyres i didnt. it puts me off a lot, when u turn in it feels like the rear tyre's sidewalls turn to jelly for a split second!!!!! a friend driving behind even said he saw it every time i turned in he said the car looked like it had driven over a patch of sand. so TOYO T1-R dry: 9/10 (dont think you could get much better in a proper road tyre) wet: have not tried yet, supposed to be good other tyres in comparison FALKEN ZIEX ZE-326 dry: 3/10 wet: 3/10 PIRELLI P6000 dry: 5/10 wet: 7/10 KELLY CHARGERS dry: -100/10 wet: -200/10 (never get these tyres, for your own safety, maybe good for long burnouts though) YOKAHAMA GRAND PRIX MR(something) tyres were worn out and hard so hard to give judgement as new. but in the state they were in, they were crap!! dry: 1/10 wet: 1/10 TOYO TRAMPIO have only driven on friends cars, but very good in the dry dry: 7/10 wet: have not tried

Oh my god, i cant believe that was a year ago, it seems like a few months!!! that was the first time i went to the drags (to watch) so whats next, 9s?

Hmmmm, on second thought, im not sure what i was complaining about, your right!!!!!! btw, i remember u saying you would be back when the weather is colder (ie now) to run a fastER time, have u been recently, hows the car now? larger turbo fitted?

a VRS kit would include a head gasket.

sounds exactly like my car but i also have adjustable cam gear, and sheilded pod(no difference, only good for making annoying noise!) i will be running with sticky normal tyres 255 wide toyo T1-Rs. at the moment the car only runs 97-99mph and 14.5(on old tyres with crap 60') so i need to get a retune then i will run it. anyway, the miss wednesdays all looked like they were 12, or else skanks, apart from the one tall one, im surprised your all interested!!!!!!

hey congrats i saw u running, impressive and i like the stock look! would you mind listing your mods and what boost you run? i would like to run a 13, (with full street tyres) but need a few things changed so im interested in others to compare.. and btw the black wrx ran a best of 12.6 not 13.0. apparently there was an accident at a roundabout nearby which stopped people from being able to get into wsid, the lady at the food shop told me, this would explain the lack of people.

it is blow by, which is oil going backwards through your intake piping, the more worn your motor is the more blow by you get, so nothing to worry about unless it is heaps. if you get a catch can it will reduce the oil getting past.

i swapped mine with another rb25 one i wasnt sure if it was good, it reads the same as my original, and the idle fluctuations are the same. another good friend had idling(hunting) problems with his r33 gtr when he got it, they showed errors when connected to a consult interface. he changed them to r34 gtr(newer) afms and has not had a single problem since. so my point is assuming they are clean(i know my friends were!) afms can definetly stuff up. problem is knowing if it is stuffed, and finding a good second hand one if u cant afford new (new are very expensive!)

i think mine reads too high, is this possible? the car runs quite rich (r33gtst) with the powerfc showing 99% injector duty cycle i run 10psi, and have fmic and exhaust. at 6600 in second gear the AFM reaches 5115mv (maxxes out) and from time to time the car stalls instead of dropping back to idle, or the idle fluctuates between nearly 0 and 1000rpm. i have assumed this is the AFM does that sound right?

use clay bar of any brand, if that fails (it takes a lot to defeat the clay bar!!!) then take it to a detailing place.

city and brighton are nearly as bad as each other, drive through either on friday or saturday night and there is a large risk of getting screwed for something. i avoid taking the skyline out those nights altogether, and have not had a defect yet.

ABS was optional on all gtsts including series 2 skylines. more dont have it than do.

yep thats right the pioneer surround definetly fits and an r33 dash. at first it seems like it wont, but u gotta get the angle right and fiddle around a bit to get it in, there was no way i was leaving mine off it looks stupid without.

bump new price

usually high beams are not HID, it would probably be a regular type of globe. the reason behind this is logical, if you want to flash your high beams, or use them quickly, it is not possible if the highs were HID as HIDs take a while to get bright. so if the globle gets to full brightness instantly then it wont be HID

in my r33, when i am going below 15km/h around a tight (90 degree) corner the inside wheel spins easily but when i am pointed straight ahead, in first gear both wheels start spinning and continue spinning at the same time for sure even on the spot

i have an ipod adaptor connected to my pioneer 5750 (no big screen, normal DIN size) its a POS, absolute crap, waste of money. its slow to respond and has no search function, which renders it useless in the car where u cant take you eyes off the road for long. if the ipod was still useable while plugged in it would be better, as finding an album or artist would take a fraction of the time when compared to finding it on the headunit.

yep on my old r33 the line on the left side of the plenum that connected to the standard boost sensor (that gives the gauge its reading) split just where the hose left the pipe off the plenum have a look at that. it made a hissing sound which led me to it.

powerplay imports in sydney sell some tein kits for $300-400 but not for all models. http://www.powerplayimports.com/index.php?..._list&cat_id=65