siksII

hey, i have a series 2 skyline (the coilpacks are different to series 1 so may crack in different areas) and 3 of my coilpacks were stuffed, they had burn marks on the side just as yours did. a way u can see if they are arcing (spark escaping) is to get the car hot then park it somewhere dark open the bonnet and u should see small sparks around the stuffed ones, this is the spark arcing to the head/bracket around the coil. when mine played up, they did way more on 9psi than they did on 7psi i knew it was coils/plugs because i have pfc (no cuts) the sound mine made was a high frequency popping noise out the exhaust, which was all the extra unburnt fuel burning on its way out. try the test i mentioned above see if u can see sparks, u can try and araldite them or tape them up to fix it but that usually does not last long, and it looks as though someone has tried that already on your coils. and yes it feels like a rev limit just as you described, it does not feel like it wants to rev any higher.

u can use them with the standard airbox that is a main advantage on top of the increased resolution

GTR for sure if u can afford it

i have a boost gauge in a cup, i used squares of velcro with pressure sensitive glue on the back u can get it from hardware stores and each patch is meant to hold 1kg. i used the velcro to stick the cup base onto the pillar, and the bottom of the cup to the dash. even though there is no flat surfaces and the velcro only holds a small area, it holds it tight enough. so if u have a cup for your gauge u can use velcro is works fine. also thought i would mention i passed the vaccum hose through one of the screw holes on either side of the accelerator cable hole (one screw is enough to hold the surround in) doing it like this more than halves the distance of cable required when putting it through the standard hole on the passenger side.

fins on the rear diff definetly mean it is a vspec there should also be a hydraulic line going to the diff and u should have the alsd light on the dash btw. u should just search this has been covered a million times.

thats what i was thinking. i dont think your 230rwkw will stay 230rwkw for long if u rev it to 9000

if u actually hid it somewhere good, it would be difficult to access it to type in the code so no point

they are not loud the loudness it to do with how u install it

happened once to me a long time ago and it was because my oil level way very low

standard price is 300

200 for new king springs is very cheap u should get them if u can get them for that much. whiteline are around 350 for r33s retail.

this cleared things up a lot for me, i was worried about NVH but for my needs i now know i should get 4 soft pineapples to set up for grip...and it shouldnt affect nvh too much as mentioned. i hope they make 1st gear a bit more useable

if it integrates with the standard alarm i wouldnt put one in if i were you.. just makes it easier to find the alarm and disable it, with wires from the nice obivous keypad to follow.

yes i second that 451s are a decent tyre nothing like a 326.

u must mean second, as first runs out way before 90 and benl1981: i have a friend with same car as me apart from is have stock turbo and he has 2530, the 2530 is no laggier than stock, i would not say less laggy though, either way very very close. the difference is when the 2530 comes on boost(with higher boost levels obviously contributing) it hits hard!! in second/third gear in the 2530 equipped car u really gotta hang onto it with stock suspension so dan i know what u mean, and you really should change your springs/shocks and adjust camber.

i have them on the front, and yes they are rubbish, mine seem pretty new but the rubber on the edges has gone nice and bubbly from skidpan day they got treated like they deserve ehehehe btw. falken 326s i think are the upper class tyre are tempe currently, as nowdays they also sell NANKANGs, which are even cheaper/worse!

hmm thats wierd oh well maybe my friend accidentally called it the wrong thing but he definetly said a lot of the guys used this inline form of boost controller just like the one i showed him.

thats what happens when water gets in, maybe when the engine bay was cleaned. no big deal just clean it up.

i am pretty sure as my friend really knows heaps of guys with 300zxs, and i actually took and showed him the device after which he told me.. i guess different people use different terminology, doesnt matter much anyway

yeah apparently they are quite popular with 300zx guys for a long time... they apparently call them boost jets (as told to me by my 300zx owning friend after i told him i got it!)

no rush

those compression figures are fine. also the compression u are reffering to when u say it means more lag is something u cannot change. what u are reffering to is the compression ratio, ie. the relationship between the volume of air in the cylinder when the piston is at the bottom of its stroke compared to when its at the top. u can make it less laggy with good tuning, although with a stock turbo it shouldnt be laggy either way.

still waiting on pics also

ingnore the other comments, outirght compression figures are not very relevant, as things such as how warm the engine is and battery voltage affect the outright figure. what is important is that all figures are even, as it is unlikely that all cylinders have the same damage (if any). usually a bad result would be say 5 cylinders having similar compression (within 3 or 4psi) and one cylinder (usually cylinder 6) having compression which is 25psi different. as long as the figures are within about 3% from max to minimum its fine. so basically from what u explained the motor should be fine. if u really want to be sure do a leakdown test but that is usually only done if compression test turns out bad. Knore's comment is sort of correct as most cars show compression around 155psi

bel has a better care factor for sure! i could go on about crd but it is not allowed on this forum. for a direct comparison of tunes a friend recently got a crd pfc tune(along with other stuff he bought), seemed ok did not ping but also did not make good power, power came on hard then died off early in the rev range, seemed peaky. got car retuned at bel as he was unhappy with the tune, still no pinging with new tune, but power comes on very smooth and early, and pulls harder to higher revs, which was obviously nicer(faster!)