siksII

Both those videos sound more like mild piston slap rather than lifters to me. Assuming the noise has now disappeared it cant be piston slap in your case. Did you say it makes the noise sometimes or all the time? (before the bearing changes) Assuming that it made the noise when you started it after the bearing change it seems strange to assume they fixed the problem permanently.

If its really 15 seconds im sure it would be lifter noise and not leaky gasket noise. I have heard that same lifter noise on a plenty of cars over time.

Yep they both have the same rear bottom brackets so as far as I know they are interchangeable.

No they dont, the rear lower mounts are different between r33 and r34, you will need r34 specific ones. I would also advise against KYB AGX shocks, have you had a ride in a car that has them fitted?

Ah k cool thanks for confirming. Ive gone with your setup, Whiteline plus camber bushes and Cusco arms are in the mail, shouldnt be too long.

I am running these tyres right now. The are nearly the same when cold as they are when warm/hot, if anything I find they can overheat and get a bit greasy sometimes(refer to picture) Im getting more neg camber so they should be fine after that. There is a much bigger difference between hot and cold for the KU36s and they dont warm that easily either, I would expect them to last a few more laps before overheating if you used them on the track. Those are street/track tyres comparable to the KU36 or RSR which are similar price. How do you find them? The $600 tyres are R compound (semi slicks) which are higher performance. If i had endless cash I would run R comps on the street forever.

Do you run them with aftermarket camber bushes in the upper arm as well or just the standard bush?

This is also my opinion of them. Also seen that if you dont use them hard for a while they lose grip, then after a decent thrash they work well again.

Oh im sorry, didnt realise you are running on caster wheels jks

The 595 come in different models, most tyre shops don't even know about the RSR so they will quote you on the low end variety, im sure that price will be for the ordinary ones rather than the RSR.

Thanks mate. Im going with the easy option as to not risk messing up the geometry with custom arms since I dont have the patience to get it right. I found a couple of pics as you said. Im getting a price on the Cusco arms with the 4 settings and will probably go with the Whiteline Plus UCA bushes. Did you find any issues fitting the adjustable bush in conjunction with the Cusco arm? Looks like you cant use the bolt that goes through the bush which comes with the cusco arm, instead the two bolts that come with the kit, seems dodgy:

Most of the information in that thread is rubbish, you have people giving Nankangs 7/10 for dry grip. I think its pretty fair that people ask for individual advice rather than trawling through pages of crap.

If you are prepared to spend $$$ then for your purpose you cant beat r comps, these will cost around $500/tyre and last around 4000 road kms. Your car will be transformed, feel super hardcore and you will never want to use a regular tyre again. Street/track tyres are cheaper and will last around 15,000-20,000kms depending on driving style My opinion on the RT 615 is that it was a good tyre when it came out years ago but the game has moved on a little in terms of performance and performance/price of tyres you can get locally. All the street/track tyres have similar(good) grip in the dry but differ more in other factors like wet performance, noise etc. Overall I would not get the RT615s, they would be one of the last on my list. I believe that each generation of tyre tends to be better and the RT615s are pretty old compared to a lot of options nowdays so you can kinda assume(rightly or wrongly) they arent as good as some of the competition now. I remember even when they came out as a replacement for the RT215, most friends who ran them were disappointed and preferred the RT215 for whatever reason. After looking into all those styles of tyres recently I say go for KU36s if you want good value and awesome dry grip...that said I dont like how they feel and would not buy them myself. My personal favourite is the Federal 595 RSR... one drive on these tyres and I knew I had to have them

I guess its important to figure out - Do you want a track tyre that is road legal or do you want a road tyre that works ok on the track? What is your priority? R compound tyres have a fair few compromises when being used on the road so I would suggest sticking to the 'trackday' road tyres unless your focus is on lap times and you wont be driving around on the road much. Good R compound tyres: -Yokohama A050 -Dunlop DZ03G Street/track tyres that are readily available and good: -Federal 595 RSR -Kumho KU-36

Hey mate, I would not recommend this workshop, stick to the other suggested places.

Yeah but im sure you would agree there is a difference between fine and good. Just because a mechanic says its fine doesnt mean much. mechanics are usually not engine oil experts and in my experience they are usually the opposite and talk out of their asses. I would recommend doing your own research before listening to most mechanics views on oils. In relation to 20w50, I know of a Sydney car that had a freshly built motor and serviced head, the engine builder recommended 20w50. Approx 20,000kms later after regular 5k oil changes with the same decent quality 20w50 the motor was checked. The head showed excessive wear and the workshop reported it appeared as if the head had been starved of oil - they had no knowledge of the oil that had been used. This car has now been used for over a year including a large number of trackdays with no issues that you would notice unless you inspected the head, so theres a good example of "fine"

Can you back that up because I dont think either is true. Are you saying you cant run a 50w oil in any turbocharged car? What is the difference in oil temps during summer compared to winter on the street the justify 50w being more suitable? (because I dont think you are talking about the track)?

Yes but I am interested in how to do it in a practical sense. Do you mean custom upper and lower arms or off the shelf? If off the shelf, which ones, and if custom what have you done ie shortened the arm or re drilled etc.. More detail would be much appreciated.

I have heard from another source that the Cusco arms provide ~1deg of neg camber as ssxRicho reported. So how do others get more camber? Surely race GTRs dont get by with bush + adjustable arm (-3deg). The only other ways seem to be re drilling the standard upper control arm or using aftermarket lower control arms as well. How are people doing it?

On a side note - why would you need a heavy duty clutch for track use? My clutch is slipped less at the track than when I am driving around in traffic due to stopping and starting. Does that only apply to those who aren't heel and toeing? The only time I abuse my clutch at the track is popping it mid corner sometimes as a fun way to fix understeer. Even then, it feels kind of abusive but since the clutch grabs right away it barely slips.

Im not changing the diff for a few weeks so ill check this in the meantime - i have had it checked before, they did what you described and said it was normal. How much should it turn?

On mine (r33) im using stock links and they have ball joints on both ends. If the bar was centered, the links would both be angled slightly inward, instead of this a lot of the time one end is slightly outwards and the other end is massively inwards!

Some feedback for Hawk DTC-60 and HT-10: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...t&p=5241649 If you are staying out for long sessions at Mallala I would probably go with what gslrallysport has suggested, not sure how the Hawks would be in your conditions.

The lock kit Sorry I dont have the part number on me, the kit is sitting at home somewhere but you can get it from anywhere that sells whiteline - just specify your bar sizes. It looks like this, nothing fancy:

I have this same problem. When you back off then accelerate if you are not smooth with the throttle it clunks. Only noticeable at low rpm. I will be changing the diff, diff bushes (front ones anyhow) and clutch for a much softer one than the button clutch I currently have. Sick of waiting for it to wear out so im removing it and putting it in the bin where it belongs My suspicions lie mostly with either: -Diff bushes (noticed a bit of play in the front bushes which im changing) -Tail shaft centre bearing (I have had this checked out and apparently its fine but im not sure)