siksII

i believe the best thing to do is remove the whole thing, and yes you will need a new gasket, it is paper.. you can get a roll of that paper gasket for around $8

i have used it a few times, feels same as any other synthetic, seems to run a touch smoother after a change, but usually does with any fresh oil. nissan at hornsby use it..

also you can see other things that may be wrong that you cannot see in the normal monitor mode, by going into the sensor check screen.. say if the tps is not working properly and the voltage drops too low the value will be hilighted so you can see what is causing the engine check light to flash.

thanks heaps, the pic of me(red r33) smoking up has now become my wallpaper :( :aroused: :aroused: :aroused: :aroused:

i have had 2 r33s, one slowish(stock) and my one now which has more power.. i have a friend with an s15 and also a friend with a r33gtr, and have driven both on the street, and have driven my car and the s15 at a skidpan day in wet/dry conditions.. simple answer for me would be get the gtr if you have the money to keep it, because maintenance is a lot more expensive than for an s15/r33 although the gtr feels larger, the handling is neutral with lots of traction, and they are very quick with minimal mods just like an s15.. you need more modification for a gtst to keep up with a gtr or an s15, definetly the slowest out of the three mod for mod or even stock. in terms of handling between the s15 and r33, they are both a bit taily with some extra power, but the r33 definetly feels front heavy, and it is easier to push into understeer, where the s15 feels more balanced between front and rear.. s15 interior is also the tackiest, (but obviously newer looking!)

easy to take off on r33s anyway, im sure it would be easy on r32s as well. i dont know if they are the same, best to call nissan they could probably tell you what other models use the same tps. try swapping with a friend first to make sure that it is really the problem, because it could be something else, or maybe just contributing to a larger problem

the engine light flashing quickly means the car is knocking, drive it softly until you get it onto a dyno, because the knocking will destroy your motor, dont keep doing it like you have been...

the tps may be an intermittent problem, so although your mechanic says it is fine, and it probably was when he saw it, at other times is may not be working and it might be causing your problem, i know my tps acts that way, sometimes it will be fine, and then all of a sudden while driving the tps voltage will drop to 0.01-0.09v (normally minimum .38, i can see the voltage on the pfc hc) and the car will turn off if i back off. so try and change the tps, since you know the ecu is picking up a problem with it.

the blitz dual solenoid is best of the jap ones, but i think a jaycar ebc is better, helped set one up yesterday and it holds/controls boost perfectly and only costs about $150

ah ok i live study and work near central, i often drive around kensington to go to eastgardens, movies= $8.50

definetly alpine, pioneer hu's are not as good quality, and imo look cheap, which they are anyway... a 9833 is a good one... you can get import models for about $550(no warranty)

Hey, that would be easier than me putting a page up, but before i send, are u sure you can recieve a 27mb(all the pics) email? i dont want to send it, just to get it back again no problem abobob! btw on the day i didnt realise it was you in the r34(with worn out brakes!!) i noticed earlier that we r sort of neighbours i live in the inner city..

do you still have the fan shroud in place? wiithout it people have problems.

hey guys, i have uploaded about 35 pics to the actual events thread, have a look there

its probably the coils this is how u can tell which ones are stuffed, drive it around till its hot, stop the car somewhere dark, (with the coil cover off) and you can actually see the coils arcing like little flashes of light around the base of the coil. give it some revs if its not doing it, but mine was doing it enough to see which coils were faulty even at idle, coils 1 and 6 are stuffed on mine, i cant rev past 5500 or use more than half throttle, it happened suddenly last week, i guess a hot day and hard driving did it. i will araldite them soon and see how it goes.

Thats it.. maybe later ill make a web page and put all the higher quality versions (about 600k each) on it, would anyone want this?? as you can see, the pics would be more interesting if i could have zoomed..

...

and more

this is just to make sure i have the size right, i will add more when all resized.

ill post some pics up no zoon though so u can barely make anything out unless u zoom in with your viewer program, but if i post them up here they will be crap quality so u wont be able to zoom much before getting grainy.. ill resize them and put them up when they are resized anyway, it will be a while my computer is slow.

u will need something stronger than that, try carby cleaner..

no worries, dont listen to anyone who says run the motor in with fully synthetic oil

do not use synthetic or even semi synth to run in your motor, or the rings wont bed in and it will use a huge amount of oil use mineral oil to start with and change frequently, then move up to semi synth and after a few thousand kms use fully synthetic. load up the engine but not for long periods and dont use high revs, dont drive it softly or the rings wont bed in.

do not use synthetic or even semi synth to run in your motor, or the rings wont bed in and it will use a huge amount of oil use mineral oil to start with and change frequently, then move up to semi synth and after a few thousand kms use fully synthetic. load up the engine but not for long periods and dont use high revs, dont drive it softly or the rings wont bed in.

so you covered the coils to make sure they dont arc?