siksII

yeah thats what i was going to suggest they are falken 326's (Ziex) they are cheap and nasty but at least they are japanese made.

hey matt, my car has just started doing the same thing, i am quite sure it is the insulation on a coil. take the cover off, go to a dark place and rev the engine, and you will be able to see the coil that is arcing, cover the coil in some type of sealant (araldite..) and they should be better, i will be having a look at mine soon.

Hey abo, that car has a 2540!! anyway, besides that, i just want to say that i believe the dyno at unigroup reads higher than others, as an example, i ran my old gts-t on the dyno there it only had a catback(with a 2.5" muffler in the middle to remove defect) and a panel filter, stock everything else, and it pulled 165rwkw shootout mode. on the same day (group dyno day) i saw ~6 na z32s(with small mods) pull ~130-135rwkw, which i thought was too high, as gtst-s make that kind of power when not much far from stock. i was thinking crap my car is only as powerful as an n/a z32, until i ran it so the 209rwkw with stock computer may be a bit misleading when comparing with other dynos.

definetly no speed cameras all the way from the start of the gore hill and into the city over the bridge dont worry if you are coming away from the city and someone goes through the toll on the other side the flash goes off facing you thats a bit worrying sometimes...

just ask any workshop near your area, its not hard all mechanics will be able to do it as good as each other.. or even better, buy a compression tester ($50) and do it yourself or with some help.. a leakdown test shouldnt be really necessary unless the compression test comes out bad. is there something wrong with the motor?

yeah i have heard similar figures from someone else, i think they cost more now from racebrakes, the one i had was definetly $550 installed.

those figures are fine, it is the difference that matters, not the outright figures, as various factors(inc how hot the motor is, battery voltage and also the gauge) can make the outright figures incorrect.

the more pucks the better in terms of useability, but it wont hold as well (usually doesnt matter because most of the time the car doesnt have enough power to make it slip anyway) 300 to install a clutch is a fair price but not much more.tell us how that clutch is when you get it..

can be the master or slave cylinder as it pushes in and out.. usually the master cylinder... you can rebuild it i think the kit costs about $30

a $100 jaycar would only be a walk in the park to get around if it was installed crap, just as a $1000 alarm would be a walk in the park to get around if it was installed the same way.

the cheapest place in sydney for car audio is doran pro audio, and they actually know what they are talking about, unlike jb/strathfield etc. although yeah jb is not too bad, not much cheaper than anywhere else though(the bondi junction store anyway).

this is not uncommon in imports, it is the heater core leaking, you need to replace the heater core, or else bypass it. it would be mostly due to the insides of your cooling system being corroded (like most imports)

or it may be your heater core leaking small amounts of coolant into the cabin, check the carpet for coolant around the core...

yeah it would have held 180-200rwkw for sure.. maybe prices have gone up, i cant give u exact details of the clutch as i gave the reciept to the new owner when i sold that car, but it was definetly 550 installed.. that was a few years ago though! maybe 2-2.5years ago now. uas (http://www.nismo.com.au/) have a kit for 495 exchange that would suit that sort of power too, have a look at their site.

how much does it cost?

if you have around 200rwkw no need to go for a really heavy duty clutch, just get a full face organic clutch with more clamping pressure, one i had in my old r33 was ~$250 from racebrakes, all up including fitting and gbox oil it was 580 installed.

thats how my head gasket leak was found.

vrs kit for rb25det(should be similar) is $250 from nissan and yes u can do it as said before with the engine still in. you might find a few exhaust man studs broken as well as cracks in the manifold, have a good look. look around where the head meets the block for coolant leaks, does your coolant level drop a lot quickly?

go to any clutch shop and ask them, the clutch should not be expensive especially since its a push type... dont bother getting a button clutch or even twin plate its not necessary... a good organic full face clutch would do the job and be easy to use (only bad thing is the pedal will be heavy!) i had a pretty heavy duty clutch in my old r33, it was from racebrakes and it cost 250 for the clutch kit and 300 for fitting just as a guide.

i have seen a td06-25g make more than 330rwkw in a gtst at 18psi, 240rwkw@12psi. but if u are comparing the td05 and the 2835 get the 2835 for sure.

they are 17 '9 but i would prefer to get some rims to borrow from sumwhere with shit tyres on them.. ill see what i can do tomorrow im tight with $$ atm i need new suspension. so u really have spare rubbers u can sell for $20 do they happen to be on rims? btw. how many spots are left, i have a friend who is interested as well. also will there be lots of time where the pan is wet?

hmm no money for new tyres atm

so is there places left? and where can i borrow some wheels/tyres from??

a completely stock r33gtst manual will run a very high 14 or low 15.

pm or sms me an offer that you are serious about and i will consider it...