siksII

Those are 2-3 times the price of the others, I dont see the advantage, how are they better than the Cusco or Ikeya ones I posted pictures of? Thanks, however that seems a bit strange to me..im pretty sure I run approx 340mm center to guard (thats 1 inch low isnt it?) and assuming you have over 1.5deg neg already, that means the Cusco arms are only giving you -1degree extra, is that correct? On the max neg setting? Im 100% sure -0.5deg extra will not be enough, plus the whiteline bushes retail at $192. I would rather spend $450 on arms that give me easier/more adjustment and get the bushes if I really need. Never considered re drilling the standard arms, have you done it or have pictures of a redrilled arm? How much extra camber can you get this way?

Thanks Ryan - I find your arms confusing in relation to the Ikeya/Cusco types. Is there only one piece per arm? From the web site photo they look like part of the Ikeya set. Is the picture wrong and they come with the curved and straight arms for each side or are they only the curved piece? Is the end that is bolted to the chassis rubber bushed?

I dont have experience with camber on other R33s so I cant say for sure. From what I have seen, running the tyres I have now I would guess 2.5-3 degrees on street and 3.5 on track. I wont know for sure until I try. Does anyone have an idea of how much adjustment those arms can provide?

Car is approx 1 inch lower than standard, 1.6deg/1.9deg last I checked (saggy stock bushes hence the different side to side). Need more front end grip and as a side benefit, even tyre wear. Chews the outside of the front tyres. Have a new set of tyres that are less than 5000kms old and the outside is already getting destroyed so I figured it was a good time to run some serious camber and even it out

I have needed more negative camber for a while now. Not keen on bushes so im interested to hear from anyone who has used either of the following: http://www.rhdjapan.com/ikeya-formula-fron...et-nissan-51469 http://www.rhdjapan.com/cusco-negative-cam...34-wgnc34-16650 The Ikeya arms look strange to me in that they are two piece. As far as I understand both Ikeya and Cusco replace the upper control arm that bolts to the body of the car... the standard one is once piece. With that in mind, it looks as though the Cusco item is easier to adjust but at the expense of fine adjustment. Cusco also seems like it would be stronger being one peice. Do I have it all wrong? How much camber adjustment do the two sets provide?

My front swaybar moves around as well, whiteline sell a "swaybar lateral lock kit" for around $20 which you can use to fix it in place. I have mine sitting at home, have not fitted it yet. I have even alignment and find the bar moves left or right, sometimes stays in the middle too. When I pulled my caster rods out they were (wrongly) adjusted to minimum caster as well, turned them around the right way since then

Posing this question makes you a brave! Not many here value UOA over subjective opinion apart from me. I changed from 8100 to 300v, will be getting the 300v analysed soon - it will be a good comparison between the two under the same driving conditions.

Good to hear you finally narrowed it down although it took so long!!! Im really lazy when it comes to fixing stuff like that but I think we have found someone thats just as bad or even worse I have had spitfires in my car for about 3-4 years now.. no problems with them. Back when I bought mine there was only two choices - Splitfire or Nissan.

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If they are as noisy as you describe they are probably snow tyres

Its got nothing to do with how fast the motor revs, if it does can you please elaborate?

Thats really nasty. I saw a decent pothole (too late) on the way to work this morning and I though crap, yesterday I posted how ive been over heaps and nothing ever happens now this one is probably going to prove me wrong and tear my tyre apart! But it didnt

Have you got a picture of the damaged part on the tyre? Interested to see how nasty it looks!

That pothole is really nasty, hope the council will repair it for you. I have seen a few people complain of tyre/rim damage from potholes and was wondering, maybe its more likely if you have low tyre pressure? I suggest this because I have been through hundreds of massive nasty potholes, on occasion it has sounded like the wheel is going to get torn off or similar to driving up a gutter, but have never damaged a wheel or tyre.

Too much talk too little action, you need to get off the forum and troubleshoot your car so you can report back to us all instead of procrastinating on the forum about it

Hey mate, Sounds like an ignition problem as others have said. I would start with working out which cylinder has the issue. Do this by pulling the coilpack leads one by one. Once you have done this and found the bad cylinder (the one where when you remove the lead nothing changes) : -Only swap the plug from the bad cylinder -If that does not work then swap a coilpack from another cylinder over -If the problem follows the coilpack then thats yous problem -If it does not, then I would be suspect of the coilpack loom -You can buy a new loom, they dont cost that much, check all the wiring and plugs going to the loom for damage -If you dont want to buy a new loom then you can take apart the plugs and bend the pins so they have stronger contact -I have not seen an issue like that which has not been solved by the above, so if you still have the problem then im out of ideas.

Haha fair enough I would say you have it the wrong way around - change after track and use that oil till after the next track. I say this since the oil doesnt get that bad between trackdays compared to the punishment on the track. In relation to water in the oil - if you take the car for a long drive it burns off.. ie on the way to wakefield.

Im not sure what your car setup is like, mine is pretty stock and 1 track day will punish 8100 (group IV) 5w-40 - hence I usually change oil after track, then drive for few months or whatever, leave it in for the track, change again etc. Im using 300v now but im sure the same will happen as I have seen on friends cars using fresh 300v the oil pressure drops a fair bit by the end of the day indicating the oil has thinned out. Oil temps have something to do with this but unless you have a very effective oil cooler chances are your oil will not be in good shape after the track.

I have a real world example in relation to your question - During a period of last year I wasnt doing much driving - the car was parked for 1-2 weeks at a time and only driven on short trips here and there. Took it for a hard thrash maybe 3 times in that period. When i did oil analysis it showed there was a high amount of water in the oil - so condensation in conjunction with mostly small trips definitely has some negative effects. The oil was approx 6 months old and maybe 3000kms or so. Going by that - regardless of how many kms I have done if the car has been sitting around I would always recommend changing it every 6 months regardless of use.

In fact.. here is a picture of the first turbo I mentioned from back in 2006 - you cant clearly see but that wheel is black plastic, not alloy.

Sorry mate, later model GTS-T definitely have plastic compressor wheels. Recently replaced a series two turbo with a another series two turbo and have had a look at another one years ago off my old car too. At first glance it does look like alloy but trust me, it is black plastic. Saw heaps of them at a wrecker recently too, all the later ones had the black plastic compressor wheel.

haha happy to hear mate Didnt have a worry in the world - I had some of the best times in that old car. I personally know a few people who have run around 13psi for a while with no issues, if you speak to tuners im sure you will hear some say 10psi and others say 13-14 is fine. Personally I believe that there is more to it than just a value. I believe both heat and turbine speed may come into the equation, hence say you have a rich tune and only boost for short periods then I wouldnt expect the turbo to go easily. On the other hand - say you run a leaner tune and use it on the track where you have full throttle a lot of the time.... So if you use your car on the street and give it a quick squirt here and there, dont rev it out often, then I would not be surprised at all if the stock turbo lasted a long time as I have experienced myself and seen on other cars.

Stock ecu! Over the years I have seen that most cars hit r&r, some dont. My current car hits it at around 9psi when I try the stock ecu but my old car didnt. May have been messed with, who knows but it looked untouched.

Many years ago on a previous r33 the pressure line going to my actuator pretty much open.. Not sure exactly how much it was running but it would have been a bit over 15psi - used to go off the stock gauge. Back then i thought +7 meant 7psi haha! Drove it hard for over 20,000kms before realising why my stock car went harder than everyone elses Eventually put it back to stock boost, i had the turbo off after all of this and it was perfect condition. Not saying this is the norm, but thats an example of good luck i guess.. Those were the good old days, ignorance was bliss!

Dont want to come across the wrong way here but trust me, you wouldnt have noticed any difference from the heat related pressure rise driving around normally. I guess you cant check now since you have nitrogen in the tyres, but when you have a chance measure the pressure when you get in a car, then measure after a normal drive and I think you will be surprised at how little it changes. Running low profile sports tyres you are not going to notice ride quality difference from a few psi anyway. Its great that you can get it for free, just dont buy into all the BS about it...