siksII

the rims would most probably not be the cause of leaking air... it would be tyre valves. so get your mate to get his valves changed. repairs can be a lot more than 100/wheel definetly more if the wheel is bent

waste of money

four friends of mine have also got their tint done with him, he offers good good prices...

i doubt many places would do that, as repairing rims takes quite a while, especially if there is a fair amount of damage like you have explained... if they did, you would be waiting for a long time.

u could also test it by finding a patch of grass you need to remove... and doing a burnout, check if the lines are the same

also take into account the 1500-2000 dollar excess, which means you only really get about 3000 in the end. i would stick with straight third party, no fire/theft coverage.

cereal, how do you mean "on the spot?"

remember if you dont have much money to spend on maintenance dont get the gtr, gtst's are very cheap to fix in comparison and a lot less to go wrong. in my position, i would get a 33gtst series 2.. even if i had lots of $$ for maintenance i probably wouldnt get a 32gtr, id save up or watever and buy a 33gtr. gtst and gtr will both drink lots of petrol depending on your driving

there is a place called eagle tyres in granville that sells new and used tyres, and they are always very cheap... otherwise taleb tyres near tempe.. both places will be able to give u habib deals on new or used tyres.. pm me if u need to know anything..

do you need them in sydney or vic?

i spoke to filip yesterday, car is not for sale anymore, although might be in a few months.

Kel, i totally agree, and dont drive anything that is not covered with third party, thats fair enough, because third party is cheap anyway! worst case is around 700 bucks so u cant go wrong for the amount it covers ie if u smash into a 300 grand car, or say Duncan's 350zed its just comprehensive that i have second thoughts about. Sorry to hear about it btw. i would be annoyed since its a new unsmashed car until now!

But how about if you can afford the insurance, but figure it is not worthwhile? ie. paying 20% of a car's value (and even more if you make a claim) each year when in the past you have not had any problems? i know that things are not always predictable and there is always a risk of having an accident(no one can pay attention and behave 100% of the time!) or some uninsured person hitting you.. but when the whole car is worth only 20 grand, im not sure if it is worth paying ~4grand per year. if a car was worth say 40 grand i would be happier to pay 4-5 thousand, but not sure about paying 4 grand for a 20 grand car...

im probably gonna buy another skyline(or similar) in 3 weeks, not sure if i should get full comp. it will be vey expensive for me (around 4 grand).... i have only been driving for 3-4 years now, a bit more than 1 year in my skyline and i have not had any accidents so far, so i figure if i had been paying 3.5 grand a year for 3 years it would be equivalent to having an accident that cost more than 10 grand. its seems even less worth it since i only drive 2 or 3 three days a week(not many kms at all) most of the time. and otherwise long trips in the middle of no where. i probably wont get full comp, only third party and a tracking alarm like i had before.

another dumb idea about making money. imagine if you dont have cruise control... or even with it...high stress freeway driving! *oh no i am going 125 instead of 110 down this hill, better brake suddenly and cause a 40 car pileup because all the mums in falcons behind me are tailgating* every time i have driven along the m4 during the day i have been tailgated, never by p platers majority of the time by females in large sedans. scary.

You can still use a standard head gasket if you have an oversize bore, that is not the reason people use metal gaskets. usually rb head gaskets are not the source of problems so most people with oversize bore/pretty modified motors use the standard gasket.

no not correct.. when the thicker the headgasket, the larger the combustion chamber is so the lower the compression ratio is.. the larger the bore is (say if it is 87.5 instead of 87) the higher the compression would be with the same thickness gasket, as there is more volume in the bore but the combustion chamber is the same.

ask wreckhead on this forum, he did 10s with r32gtr, had large single turbo and NOS i seriously doubt low 10's with 2530s.

Compresson ratio is related to the combustion space in the whole cylinder when the piston is at the bottom of its travel compared to when it is at its highest point, so when the piston is at the top of its stroke it sits inline with the top of the block. there is the headgasket between the block and head, which raises the head and therefore increases the space of the combustion chamber. (compared to if there was not head gasket) So if you use a thinner than standard headgasket you have decreased the amount of space in the combustion chamber, which will increase the compression ratio, because the piston is going up in the same space but being compressed into a smaller compression chamber. Therefore increasing the compression ratio... if you know what i mean

yeah thats true as well, but i just summed it up in terms of high/low readings

I have read what SK said, and ill sum it up(from memory): it is impossible to get readings like the factories give. as long as they are pretty even its fine.

r34 gtt and r33gtr wont have a large (but will be noticeable) difference in performance. (im talking absolutely standard) if you modify the gtr will chop the gtt in most cases how much money do you expect to spend on maintenance? if the answer is not much get the gtt, because the gtr will cost lots to fix if things go wrong (also more chance of going wrong, and more things to go wrong!) also insurance is more expensive for a gtr depending on how old you are the difference may change. if you do more "spirited driving" i am sure you would enjoy the gtr more

cameron, most readings i have seen are more random than that! ie there not one cyl that is way out compared to the rest, they are all a few psi diferent from each other....and yeah cyl 6 usually lower (first to get damaged) could be the head though (burnt valves etc) which means a lot less to fix than bottom end and i would even bother because it probably wouldnt be noticeable if there was a diff of say 8-10 psi in one cyl.. in relation to the ceffy, like cam said, if they are even readings and it makes good power dont worry about it at all... if anything do a leakdown test to double check. guages/cranking speed/battery/auxilaries etc all make sure you will never get a reading like new unless you are just lucky and the guage reads high..

1-3psi max? have you tested 8 year old motors which put out readings that close to each other? i was thinking more along the lines of 1-13 what guage do u use? guages i have used u cant even see 1psi difference lol.

At least Elgtr agrees... kamakaze33 dont believe all that you read in magazines. ESPECIALLY import ones that seem to come out with wacky unrealistic times. im talking about real life, no magazine BS. go try it one day, or find a friend with a stock gtr, and take it for a good run and believe me then you will realise there is no way it will run 12s...