siksII

What difference do you find?

No street/track wheel alignment regardless how aggressive will cause this kind of damage. Nitrogen is not only a waste of money but absolutely stupid and unsafe on the street. There is a bunch of clueless people driving around who have been convinced by the tyre shop to get nitrogen, they dont want to fill up with regular air and hence dont bother checking their pressures. Those stupid green valve caps make it worse, its like 'oh no, thats right, nitrogen - cant risk mixing air in, ill leave it to the workshop to check!'. Nitrogen for the general public is a complete scam and puts people at risk due to never checking their pressures.

They look like they have been run flat or with too low pressure previously.. i struggle to believe that would happen to any tyre driving along normally at the right pressure.

There are some comments on those oils on previous pages.. but to summarise, dont use 5w50 anything in an rb25, definitely use 8100 5w-40 for road/hard road use, good feedback all round and its 100% synthetic.

I had the same issue. Ended up buying a stock second hand one and had it beefed up with extra welding - this way its stronger than a repaired one or a Nismo replacement. Just remove it to have it welded, there is no space down there. I replaced my master and slave at the same time for peace of mind. Fitting the master was a nightmare and so was bleeding.

Sold

Here's some pics I took a while ago. Has mesh on both sides.

AFM comes with plug and even the original box. Was not used for long and has original mesh/rubber gasket. Had one cracked corner where the afm mounting bracket attached (seen plenty like this) but has been glued back so its not very noticeable and does not affect its operation at all. Pickup in Sydney is fine or I am happy to post. $170 ono

This rally looks awesome, if I knew about it earlier before it filled up..... maybe next year!

I think what Basho means is that he has found that BMW recommends using 10w40 in climates between 0-20deg and 15w40 in climates over 15deg. Basho, when I mentioned follow the manufacturer spec, this is car specific so look in the user manual for your car and follow that rather than the recommendation for any other engine. For example the standard oil recommended for an RB25 is 7.5w30.

They are the regular whiteline sizes for r33 I use selby adjustable 27mm front and 24mm rear. Currently running front on 2/4 stiffness on either side and rear on full soft. Handling balance is pretty neutral, very little understeer and controllable oversteer that tends to want to straighten up rather than get bigger. This is with 180rwkw running r compound tyres. Had the rear bar on full hard before - might be good on the track however it made the rear end feel a bit to sketchy for my liking. Hard to describe the feeling but I guess it felt like there was the chance of turn in oversteer and you couldnt fully trust it. Might have been better if I had adjusted the front stiffer but I couldnt due to the stock links not reaching the hardest two holes so I backed off the rear bar instead. Now running street tyres which are wider at the rear but have not had a chance to try them out enough to make a judgment.

Just to update this thread - last wheel alignment I had even toe/camber all around but uneven caster. The car was veering to the left but we didnt have time to adjust the whiteline caster bush. (one was on max, other was a little bit off) After confirming with a friend who was done it this way, this is what I did: -Removed the rod -Positioned bush over two blocks of wood -Bashed adjuster out with a hammer and jack pole. Came out surprisingly easy, bushes were still nice and greasy on the inside surface. -Adjusted to max with multigrips like the other side -Bashed it back in -Replaced rod Car now drives straight but I will take it to get the toe straightened as its probably a little off due to the increased caster. So just wanted to let everyone know that it is possible to do this at home without a press.

Worked on the car on Saturday, I did not perceive any difference to the way the car ran. If no one told me it was changed I wouldnt have known the difference. This going from punished 8100 5w40 to brand new 10w40 300v. I do expect to see some differences in the UOA when next oil change comes around. Did someother work on the car and noticed a difference in every other change I made (plugs, air filter, caster bush adjustment)

Yeah it does take 4.5L. Its annoying that the bottles come in 4L but look at it this way - I bought two 4L bottles - thats 8L. I will have over 3L left over. This means that I only need to buy a single bottle for the next 3 changes. If you buy 4L+2L its a rip off. I change oil around 3 times per year so whenever there is a sale on ill usually stock up anyhow. I guess if you dont change your oil often then it seems like a big initial outlay though. You cant get that many oils off the shelf in most places around Sydney.. so my list is pretty limited -300v (group V) -Royal purple (group IV) -8100 (group IV) Pretty much everything else you can buy easily in 10 or 5w-40 is mineral oil.

I enjoy most cars for their own merits but an average car will never be as satisfying for me as the skyline or another sports car. That said, I agree with Terry - the answer is to have a normal car and your skyline so you can enjoy either depending on your mood.

Too late now! For $75 I would have probably just shelled out the extra for 300v. I guess 300v is as good as it gets in terms of proven(for Nissans) and on paper performance so for peace of mind I dont mind paying the extra. Especially since im not doing that well with 8100. You should get some tested to check out its additive package so we can compare with 300v

Krazy, sorry - I said that assuming you chose the 10w50 with the knowledge you have now. Anyhow, I had a google around and the Gulf distributor is in Penrith which is ages away for me so instead I drove 10 mins to repco and bought myself some 300v 10w-40. Normal price of $104 for 4L is pretty rough, but with 20% off for $84 its not so bad. Its a small amount over cheaper oil anyhow if you think of it over a 3-6 month period (my normal change intervals). I should have time to replace my oil on Saturday. As pessimistic as I am about this, I will try my best to sense any perceptible difference after the change

Thanks for the feeback! I plan on using them for street use only. Bit of a worry about them being relatively less progressive, I guess ill find out for myself soon enough. Out of the KU-36 or RSR which do you prefer and can you please give some feedback about other differences between the two?

After changing back to my street DS2500s im missing the Hawk DTCs, wish I had an free supply of rotors so I could use a race pad all the time. The 2500s feel so weak in comparison, and they are a good pad!

Oil thins out as temperature rises, hence at high rpm/high ambient temp use, the oil would thin out during driving more than say crawling around in Sydney and giving it a quick squirt here and there. The oil can thin out enough that there is no protection between the metal surfaces and you can spin a bearing. Sort of similar to oil starvation on gtrs. If you start with a thicker oil it would hopefully thin to a viscosity which the engine is designed for and which provides enough protection. I have not compared it on my car to other oils, just 3 lots of the same oil, thats why im looking forward to upgrading oils. I have seen other UOAs around the net and know the average amounts so have a basic idea of what to expect.

Enkei use a special technique to make light, strong, low price cast rims so they are not the same as your run of the mill cast rim such as a Rota or tyre shop cheapie, google it. http://tinyurl.com/23qjzjd

Monster reply time!! Krazy, let me give you some background. I have owned my car for around 5 years now, had another r33 before that and have taken care of both myself the entire time. I have driven in all sorts of conditions from sub zero to 40deg on the road and track whilst trying most of the oils you can easily buy so dont think I just put some oil in, analysed it and then came to an early conclusion. Why would you believe people saying that a 10w50 would be fine for normal use? If you did your research then you would know not to use that in the first place. Hope you didnt follow guidance about that oil from the street commodores test which the editors later retracted and apologised for? I have a fair idea on my own car about what differences oils can make, these are the oils I have tried on my own cars with my own hands doing the work: Valvoline SynPower Royal Purple Mobil 1 Delvac 1 Castrol Formula R Motul 4100 Motul 8100 I have also personally changed a bunch of other oils on friends cars commonly including 300v in 15w50 and 10w40 as well as Mobil semi synth and Magnatec. After the last 8 years and how many ever oil changes I would put money on people not being able to consistently tell the difference between brands of oil in the correct viscosities if we did a blind experiment where brand new oil was changed multiple times after which the car was taken for a drive. I agree with most of what you say however believe there is more to it than just how it feels if you are going to make judgement calls about an oil. Of course you need to follow the manufacturers spec keeping in mind the climate and the way you use it, these are basic steps and im sure 90% of people do that already. What I am talking about is the difference between brands and types of oil of the correct viscosity, not those initial stages of selection. In relation to UOA, I have used 4 lots of the same oil (Motul 8100) in a row and have had 3 in a row tested. Im no expert but can read the numbers and get some idea and compare with what is normal and the previous/later sample to get a better idea of whats going on then going "yeah the car is running awesome, oil must be great". Right now my oil has a higher concentration of contaminants than average, the fuel dilution is high for its age and the oil has thinned out fair bit... but the car is running great so how would I know whether or not to change the oil or not without analysis and whether or not my engine is suffering greater than usual wear right now? The oil is only 3 months and 2200kms old. Castrol states publicly that the ingredient that makes their Magnatec magnetic is ester, its not some other magic additive they have formulated. If you look past the marketing material and do a search of the castrol web site or rest of the internet you will find plenty of reference to this. When I say silicon, I am talking about particles of abrasive silicon that are not caught by your air or oil filter. It gets in through the combustion chamber then passed by the rings. We are talking mostly particles less than 10 microns in size and some between 10-20 microns. The rest will most likely be caught by your air or oil filter. I have high amounts of silicon in my sample and will be changing the air filter at the same time as the oil to hopefully see a reduction - trend has been steady upward so far. I am using Motul 8100 which is on paper one of the best oils I have used so far and my car runs perfectly as it has on the rest of the oils I have used and I would recommend it since its probably the cheapest true group IV PAO oil out there. I have found that it thins out quickly the way I use the car and hence plan to use a slightly thicker group V this time around. Birds, I dont think we will ever see eye to eye on this since you are a UOA hater... AND you seem to have followers!!! But its an interesting discussion either way.. As I said, im not expert either, but will do whatever I can to easily and scientifically work out what is best. Regardless of your valid points about variables, the following are still relevant positives about doing the test which I believe are valuable and which you would not otherwise know: -See the different additives in oils. Most the additives between formulations are well known and by analysing you can make some assumptions about which oil might be best for your usage -State of the engine at the time of the test regardless of oil used. When you test the oil you will know if the wear levels are abnormally high for some reason and dump the oil/work out whats wrong -State of the oil. Get an idea of whether its worth changing -If your engine is somehow stuffed. If there is massive amounts of water, petrol or metals in the oil the car could be running perfect but you will know something is up -If the oil right for your purposes. You can see how much it has thinned out (if at all) compared to another oil after similar use. Its not like I blindly follow the UOA, I only recently started doing it but am glad I did. Even though my UOA is not coming out good I will not say the 8100 is a bad oil in fact I will say that from how the car runs and how I have used it, I believe its probably a very good oil for most people but just not enough for me. What I wish we had here in Australia was a large amount of people testing their oil and a workshop with experience in testing enthusiasts cars like they have in the US. The lab itself could then give expert advice backed by their experience of seeing hundreds of other samples from the same cars.

Haha true!!! How good is internet logic!! Im not that fussed or I wouldnt have ordered them anyhow. I got them fitted last Thursday but have only had a chance to test them out in the wet, so not much of a test.. although they were confidence inspiring and surprisingly grippy in the wet. Looking forward to some good weather so I can try them out properly. Going from r comps my car now feels like a luxury barge with these tyres.

Sounds like they dont know what they are talking about.. pistons dont glaze, bores do, and that normally happens when they motor is brand new during the running in period. You should use a run in oil in that period, not a synthetic, perhaps thats what they are talking about? http://coxengineering.co.uk/bore.aspx

I heard that a while back when the 2.0 WRX was out Subaru was recommending a thin oil as standard... A lot of new cars from around NT/WA that had high speed/high temperature use spun bearings in a short period. I have no reference for this but a good friend of mine at the time that had one mentioned it.. people started to use a heavier oil than standard to avoid that. I doubt its the same with the 2.5 being a new motor but food for thought anyhow.