siksII

You can get redline for a good price here: http://www.performancelub.com/

Stick to the manufacturer spec or slightly thicker, its not just the tolerances you need to worry about so I wouldnt worry about trying to find out. 300v comes in 5w-30 so if you can get a hold of that it would be pretty safe to assume its some of the best oil you can use for your car assuming hard use.

The stuff that makes Magnatec magnetic is the best thing about it. Synthetic esters are polar, ie magnetic, group V oils like 300v and redline are made from a base of synthetic esters, Magnatec is a group III mineral oil with some small amount of ester added in to substantiate its marketing. You could call 300v or any group V super magnatec in terms of being magnetic since they are based on magnetic synthetic esters! In terms of UOA - there is heaps of UOA posted around the net and when people change oil from one type to another the wear recorded can usually changes during that first new interval so I would say that real life examples go against your two year example. ie. both cases would show similar wear assuming a decent interval, say 5000kms. The UOA does not seem to really show what happened previously, only what happened in the last period since probably 90%+ of the oil is flushed out of the system when you do a change. RE the UOA process...When you sample the oil you keep the car running for a while so the oil is mixed but other than that you can take it at any time and you dont do a flush or anything out of the ordinary. The point of it is not just to see the trace elements and what/how much additives are in an oil, its to track how much your engine is wearing and the condition of the oil at that time. You can then correlate the three and therefore whenever you decide to do it for whatever reason, it will give you a good idea of how much wear has happened and what condition the oil is in. My example. I only started doing it recently, but have taken three samples of the same oil. First was after 5000kms, second was after 4200kms, 3rd was after 2200kms (which I have not changed yet) but the 3rd one at 2200km/3months already shows that the oil is not doing well and I would be best to change it now. I know this since I can compare with my older analysis and see the wear rates plus how much the oil has thinned out (which it has in a short period). So rather than leaving it in for anther 3 months or 2700kms and allowing higher than normal wear to occur in that time, I know to change now and have wear rates go back to normal. You can also get an indication of your air filter's condition since poor filtering lets in silicon (sand) from the atmosphere which mixes with the oil and causes damage to your internals. I have been lazy changing it so have recorded higher and higher readings of silicon over the last 3 changes. Unless the silicon content in the next oil I use is much different, I am expecting the silicon reading to go back to normal since I will change the air filter at the same time as the oil. When I change my oil next I will take a sample at 5000kms as usual or after some hard use and I hope to see reduced wear due to using a better oil for my purposes.

Speaking in general here, not attacking you Galois... I know Magnatec seems to be the oil of choice for people to quote as crap but this is how I see it.. Magnatec is reported to be a group III oil, so is Motul 4100 which seems the cheap oil of choice for many on this forum. I see 4100 is is just overpriced Magnatec. Im not saying 4100 is not good enough but I would say you may as well be using Magnatec and unless you have UOAs to prove it, no one has a basis to say 4100 is much better. Im only changing to a better oil since UOA has shown that the 8100 is probably not the best for my use. 2/3 UOAs that i have done on it show that is has lost a lot of its viscosity, evidence of shearing. If I change to 300v the car might run different, but you could put this down to the 8100 being on the light end of a 40 weight and the 300v being on the thick end of 40 weight. Placebo effect is a big deal with anything car related for sure. As you say no one would use an oil that makes the car feel rough, but that brings me back to placebo - is the car really running rougher? I bet most who change to a more expensive oil of the same viscosity will say their car runs smoother meanwhile most would say the car doesnt run as good when they change to a cheaper oil, would you agree?

UOA will tell you what will run better in your car since you can track how much your engine wears with different types of oil and different oil change intervals. I dont believe hearing and feeling it is a good indication since this can be heavily influenced by perception rather than fact. I know people change oil and then think somehow their car is running differently but no offence, I think this is mostly placebo. Im sure sometimes there is a difference and I would put this down to changes in viscosity. I have been using 8100 but will start using group V oils from now on since I want better protection. This is the first time I have heard of Sougi - wish I had earlier since I would be interested to try it out, I was thinking of using 300v from now on since its the easiest group V for me to get and it seems you never hear complaints about it from anyone with a Nissan.

Sounds like its nearly guaranteed if you had two sets do it. How many kms did you get out of each? Track or street?

I just ordered a set of these, hope I dont have any issues with them.

I remember seeing a few threads on Bridgestone Adrenalins with the same issue: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Br...ne-t219401.html

I had settled on Ferodo DS2500 on the road and occasional track work. The DS2500s are ok on the track but not ideal for a full weight R33 gts-t with standard brakes so I recently tried out a set of Hawk DTC-60 (front) and HT-10 (rear). These pads are track only, they are not desgined to be used on the road at all. Compared to a normal road/track pad like the DS2500 the Hawks were a massive step up. They never felt like they would overheat and take some serious getting used to if you are going to take advantage of them. They provide more friction than any other pad I have had on my car. With the 2500s you need to give the pedal a reasonably heavy squeeze to slow down and as they gradually overheat you need to press harder and harder (plus they start wearing excessively by this time too) The positive of this is that you dont need too much skill to modulate the brakes since there is such a large range of pressure before lock up. With the Hawks they were consistenty super aggressive the whole time I used them. It felt like you barely brush the pedal to brake hard and to keep them on the edge of lockup takes a lot more skill since they have so much bite. Flat spot risk is much higher with these pads - its so easy to lock up wheels when compared to using a regular street/track pad. Pad wear was low. They perform well when on the road however you would never want to use them since: -Every time you brake it sounds like you are belt sanding your disks -The squeal is crazy -Your disks will wear out in no time. I have a friend who ran HT-10s on the road and they destroyed his new disks in around 4000kms. In summary, these pads are great but I need more track time before being able to take advantage of their performance. Im a pretty bad at braking at the best of times and these pads made it more obvious. Use with caution

R8 is definitely a supercar to me.

Still vividly remember my surprise when seeing this car at EC years ago. I could not believe my eyes when I spotted it. Had a chat to the owner at the time, friendly guy.

Did 650kms in this over 24 hours, Nothing else comes close: More pics here http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/La....html&st=60

Yeah sorry I realised after i posted them, I thought I had seen them on there before for around the same price.

Thought i saw them on ebay but can only find the lock nuts now

Not sure although a friend of mine who I showed the pics to mentioned the same thing about this car being from the motor show etc..

It had a 2010 rego sticker so I think so! I was impressed it even appeared to have rego (top of the windscreen) imagine driving that around Sydney!

In a dealearship, Crown st Surry Hills.. had to stop to take some photos!!

I saw that episode a few months ago, it was awesome watching those guys get into more and more trouble.

If you install them at the same height as the old suspension then even the wheel alignment will be the same as it was on a skyline.

R33s have no stock front camber adjustment. You can only adjust toe and it would be unusual to have so much toe out that its wearing the inside of your tyres. I doubt a wheel alignment will help but it will show you whats going on. The only way to reduce camber without fitting bushes is to raise the ride height and I think this will probably be the issue.

235 KU-36 look pretty stretched on a 9.5 inch rim but they do fit. The stretch looks slightly like a step due to the sidewall construction, not a smooth stretch like some other tyres but still look good. Just wondering, are the 595 RS-Rs included in the SAU discounts?

What advantages does letting them cool without weight on them give?

CJ Motor on NS has them for $1500 plus $40 delivery to qld, im assuming these are the JDM ones. That price is without the tops - not much point in using the tops on a Skyline anyhow.

One post further down they have listed their updated prices - $245 for 235/45/17. This is still a fair bit more than the Kumho's though, one of the sponsors has them listed for $164 in that same size.

I was saying they have a soft sidewall only in relation to an r compound tyre. In my opinion, sidewalls felt much better than a normal road tyre, similar to a good sports tyre, but soft compared to an r comp. I really loved the way they gripped though, the compound feels great for a road tyre. The ones I have tried were pretty high profile, perhaps there is some differences when you go to a lower profile. As a side note - this is not scientific at all, but KU-36 sidewalls feel very flexible when you feel the tyre by hand off the car. As a comparison, they definitely feel more flexible than Dunlop Sport Maxx sidewalls which is not even a road/track type tyre.