dr phil

Ours is 2018 model, about 50k km, $32k from Pickles.....

Yeah, basically same motor, ours is the 224kw version (9.5psi vs 14.5 IIRC), minor differences to Red Sport, 1 water pump for the water to air intercoolers vs 2, no speed sensors on the turbos in ours. Can tune the 224kw up to the same. The paint is cool, dark blue with green fleck, paint code RAY.

I was using my turbo R34 GTFour sedan as a daily for a few years, it is possible to have 3x kid seats in the back if you try extremely hard. We now have a V37 3.0tt sedan, my wife will drive that. It needs 4wd though, or at least a better diff.

Somebody please do a BMW DCT conversion. There is a GTR kit now for the transfer case too.

Front suspension is the same style as GTR. Rear is not the same, you need to see what rear hubs you have, fork mount or pin type. IIRC R32 had the fork type, but R33 and R34 have pin type on the rear, the same as other non-turbo models. I swapped fork type (aluminium) rear hubs into my ENR34 from a GTT, so I could use GTR type suspension front and rear, now have MCA Comfort coilovers. Also - you want to put swaybars from GTR into your GT Four also, they don’t even come with a rear one from factory.

Interesting point, I hadn’t thought about the centre bearing height. A quick review shows the upper and lower bracket, and bearing itself are all different between 2wd and 4wd. Bottom bracket looks totally different in the pics in Fast.

One question for you, which rear crossmember are you using? I swapped to a hicas type from GTT. The bushes to mount the rear crossmember are different height from 2WD/4WD - 4wd crossmember sits lower in the car by about 10mm (has a taller bush). At first I thought this was to set different suspension angles/roll centre, but now i think i may be more to do with tailshaft angle, i suspect the output shaft from the 4wd gearbox may also be slightly lower than in a 2wd.

I have an almost identical setup in my ENR34, GTT aluminium rear hubs, stock ENR diffs and driveshafts. No issues with binding in mine.

I have a set of long nose bosch 1000cc injectors in mine, with lower adapters. They seem pretty good. Two things with them, 1 - you use the lower adapters, and no top adapters, to fit the standard neo rail, which is 14mm top and bottom. 2 - you need to change to small type rectangle bosch plugs, the big plugs don’t fit they have two big ears that hold the metal clip which foul on the head, ask me how I know.

I have an Adaptronic Modular in my R34 GT4, which has a neo turbo Stag motor. I’ve had no problems with it so far, I actually got it 2nd hand for cheap. I’m not a pro tuna - just a home tinkerer. The only other experience I’ve had was with an Autronic SMC on an FJ20det.

So “Infiniti” is dead, but at least in Japan the VR30DDTT is available in the V37 Skyline as the 400R now.

Really appreciate the data you post up, helps out the dodgy home tunas like me. My setup not identical of course, but still very interesting looking through your data.

Which consult cable are you using? I got a cheap eBay cable and it was outputting a weird signal on the pin in the Consult plug that actually contains the speed pulse. When plugged in I got a TCS error on the dash when driving. Cut that wire in the consult cable and all was good - got speed in Nissan Datascan fine. Was a GTT though.

I put an Adaptronic Modular into my R34 over Christmas and it has been fine so far.

You can read the ABS codes without a consult unit. These pages are from the R34 manual, for GTT (ie, ABS/TCS).

Oh, and dont forget the idle screw, with TPS off, timing at 15 on ecu and light, you adjust the idle speed to 650rpm with the idle speed screw (engine warmed up). That and the TPS voltage are important. If you can’t achieve 650rpm at 15deg timing you have a problem that needs to be fixed.

When you see 30 deg, what rpm is the engine running at? It sounds like it is in overrun timing not idle control. Also you should verify your TPS is adjusted correctly, it should have less than 0.5v on the signal wire with throttle closed.

No if you are seeing 30 from the light you are doing something wrong. Please stop thinking the ecu has a base timing amount AND an amount that it adds. It does not. It only operates on total. If the ecu shows 15, you should see 15 on the light. If the ecu shows 3 YOU SHOULD SEE 3 ON THE LIGHT. It runs low total timing at idle for the reasons I explained. /thread

Ok I don’t think it has a map for this, probably has an equation about how to alter timing based on actual idle speed vs target idle speed. But from a log of my car it seems to jump around from 3 deg to about 13 in normal conditions, at idle, with the throttle closed.

Well, it doesn’t so much add 0, really it is commanding 15 when locked, which should match to your timing light reading. I would have to turn on my laptop and look at the idle map to give you the range it operates through at idle, i’d guess 3 to about 18 as the ecu sees fit to control the idle speed.

There is a reason that the stock ecu runs low ignition timing when it is trying to actively control idle speed, eg 5-10 deg, and jumping around. It runs low idle timing, combined with an elevated IAC opening, because if it needs to quickly increase torque ie idle rpm, it is very fast for it to increase ignition timing, ie it can react fast to a situation where it needs more torque, eg saving from a stall. Andy Whittle has a youtube vid of this strategy. So yes this low ignition timing is what the stock neo ecu targets at idle, and yes it does jump around. Ignition timing changes make the engine react faster than opening IAC etc. To adjust timing, you disable this idle control strategy, one way is to unplug TPS. This locks the ecu to command 15 deg, and a fixed IAC level. Then you adjust CAS with a timing light to 15 deg, AND the idle speed screw to 650rpm. Then you plug TPS back in and live happily ever after.

This is from the R34 manual, so you will need to be careful as the plug pinouts may be different to R33. But, it does show what resistance to expect across the various solenoids, and pressure sensors / switches. Also - it says you test the motor with 12v for less than 5s.

If that description against code 37 is correct, it would mean that the ETS solenoid circuit is open, which could mean plug not on properly, wiring broken etc, as well as a possible problem with the solenoid itself. I could probably dig out diagnostic steps for that issue if you want, would be things like check resistance across solenoid when unplugged, try reseating the plug, then check for broken wiring between solenoid and control unit I’d suspect.

When I was starting up my FJ20 Datto for the first time on an Autronic, I wired up a dodgy lead to the starter solenoid so I could hold the timing light and crank it over at the same time Sounds like you have an issue with dwell / triggering / polarity of the trigger on your coils, double check all that stuff, otherwise you might damage your coils. Sorry - I can’t remember if you mentioned your ECU and ignition setup.

Oh also - yes the exhaust layout is identical to GTR. Has the big hump in the passenger floor.