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dr phil

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Everything posted by dr phil

  1. dr phil
    Yay a GT4 question! 4.3 with a gearbox like R33 gtr gives similar ratios to an R34 GTR for 1st to 3rd. Obv only 5 gears total not 6. I have 4.3 and a Stagea neo turbo in my GT4 and I find it ok. Bit noisy at highway speed though. Lots of things are poverty spec in GT4 vs the spec in GTT and GTR. Eg Front hubs are steel (gtr aluminium) Rear hubs are steel and eye type (gtt and gtr are aluminium and fork) Gt4 has no hicas Gt4 has no speed sensitive power steering (this comes along with hicas) Gt4 has smaller brake master than GTT, which is smaller than GTR. Brakes smaller, obviously. Gt4 has poverty 3x2 bolt driveshafts, GTT has 5 bolt, GTR has 6 bolt driveshafts and larger stub axles through the hubs GT4 has no rear swaybar Pretty sure rear diff is viscous, i think build plate says R200V. I think mine will spin the inside wheel on hard cornering (i have GTR swaybars) which is funny, because it then sends more torque to the front, and it kindof hops around. A real LSD would be ace. That’s just the stuff I remember.
  2. dr phil
    The non turbo RB25DE AFM is the same as RB25DET, both pink label, same part number
  3. dr phil
    Off topic but I wrote some software to connect to the ABS/ETS computer in my R34 GT4, via consult port. Are you sure you can’t put the ABS in diagnosis mode by connecting some pins? You need a workshop manual for details. You can do this on R34 for example, it flashes error codes on the brake warning light on the dash, similar to engine ecu diagnostic mode.
  4. dr phil
    R34 GT Fours do not come with HICAS. I’d guess it occurs when 4wd gets engaged. I have a sedan GT4, and my steering changes course pretty weirdly under similar circumstances, I have split radius rod bushes to fix, and I’m replacing the front lower ball joints, to see if that helps. I don’t get any kick or heavy steering in mine though.
  5. dr phil
    R33 and R34 RB25DET are same 9:1 comp ratio. R34 has less cc in the head but also less dome in the piston.
  6. dr phil
    Roll tide brother
  7. dr phil
    I’d say most people on this forum with 500kw have replaced the A-LSD with a normal LSD like nismo etc, and possibly broken gearboxes too. The thing about the A-LSD is that it locks when commanded to by the attesa ecu, not from torque from the engine like a regular lsd. A-LSD operation also relies on hydraulic actuator lines not leaking, or needing to be bled. Dunno if you ‘caused it’, but the A-LSD not being locked on hub dyno sounds bad IMHO.
  8. dr phil
    Not going an Adaptronic modular, or an EMU Black?
  9. dr phil
    Did you pull the air bleed wire and push the brake pedal 5 times to put the 4wd computer into RWD mode as well as removing the front shaft? Sounds to me like there was 200kw of power turning into heat somewhere, one rear wheel rotating faster than the other is going to heat up your diff real quick isn’t it? For me the question is what the 4wd computer was trying to do, when it detects wheel spin it shoves torque to the front (ie locks up centre diff more), hence the question about setting the computer into rwd mode. I wonder what it does to the A-LSD lock up in this situation, would it go up, or down. As mentioned by R.3.2.G.T.R in normal operation more TPS = more alsd lock up (and more cornering force = more alsd lock up too), but I wonder if it was freaking out and going into a failsafe mode (the centre diff failsafe is 20% lock from memory). Perhaps you overheated something. Maybe a hub dyno aint so good with A-LSD.
  10. dr phil
    Did that replace the ones in the engine bay? There are two right - one bolted to the side on the return line, and one on the fuel rail?
  11. dr phil
    I had fuel pressure issue with Walbro 460, mine was with a restrictor in the factory fuel hoses (R34 non turbo hose setup). I still have the stock jet pump in the tank too, going to drill that out a bit soon too. You have a radium venturi dont you dose?
  12. dr phil
    If you want to confirm which gear surround you have, remove the screw behind the ashtray, then lift the gear surround up to unclip it and lift it out. Part number is moulded on the back I’m pretty sure, S1 is 96935-AA410, S2 is 96935-AB110.
  13. dr phil
    The S1 GTR ash tray is 68800-AA400. Something is odd though, the climate control in your pic is S2, it looks like a S2 interior that has a S1 gear surround and radio surround swapped in.
  14. dr phil
    Yep good link - and it’s the R34 supplement 1 manual that has the E-TS/ABS ecu details in it, in the BR section. Strangely enough the description for the E-TS diagnosis is wrong in the manual for the GT4 Sedan (probably correct for the coupe), from what I have found the Sedan is more like the E-TS Pro, and S2 Stagea.
  15. dr phil
    That’s the ECU spec, then the E-TS/ABS control unit spec has it as 0.5v - 4.0v
  16. dr phil
    It’s 0.5v - 4.2v according to the R34 manual.
  17. dr phil
    OK here you go, Nissan part numbers, weights from amayama.com : 54401-86L00 - R32 GTR, R32 GT4, A31, early C34 and R33 GT4. 16.1kg. 54401-85T00 - later R33 GT4 and C34, WC34 Stagea and R34 GT4. 18.7kg. 54401-24U00 - R33 GTR, some R33 GT4, 260RS Stagea, and some WC34 Stagea. 16kg. 54401-AA300 - R34 GTR. Not interchangeable with others at least because of significant steering rack mounting differences. 16.62kg. Nissan mark NONE of them as interchangeable, but I'd guess that the 24U00 and 85T00 are probably pretty similar, and even the 86L00 considering a particular year model R33 did use this one too. Differences could be mounting points for heat shields, undertrays etc.
  18. dr phil
    Hey Kevin Johnson - are you from crank-scrapers.com? I ordered a crank scraper for an FJ20 from you in 2012 and you never sent it, and then you started ignoring my emails...
  19. dr phil
    If you are spinning the rear right tyre too much then it sounds like your A-LSD isnt locking up properly, so try bleeding it on top of the diff for a start. If it’s always biased to one wheel, maybe check if one of the brakes is dragging too. Got any warning lights on the dash? When i got my GT Four I bled the attessa fluid and it was thick like old engine oil, yuck. Replaced with Transmax Z.
  20. dr phil
    What brand / type of mech lsd do you have Kiwi?
  21. dr phil
    Nah you need to part it out, so I can take your motor, put a stag sump back on it, and do hektik 4wd sedan launches
  22. dr phil
    Why the 1/2” head studs? I have read that some don’t like to do that to the RB30 block as they weren’t made for that size, and possible warping of the deck with meat taken out around the threads. So the alternative is ARP RB25 studs, why not do this since the block AND head are made for that size (you are running an RB25 not RB26 head). Just curious, I’m no expert. Would love to go 3.0 under my neo det head!!!
  23. dr phil
    Good stuff!
  24. dr phil
    Just tried to fit a R33/34 GTR 3 piece floor brace to my R34 GT Four, the one that goes under the rear seat, and under the tailshaft. Despite the GT4 having the outer bolt holes, and 4 studs near the tunnel (3 used from factory) - the GTR brace DOES NOT fit. 2 things are different, the studs in the body are larger diameter in GTR, and they have a slightly different spacing. Mr Nissan does not want you to turn your GT4 sedan into a GTR without a fight!
  25. dr phil
    So still R30 not Stagea??
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