dr phil

Nice one!! I must be the only person considering putting an A-LSD into a Skyline. Street car GT four though, I'm currently suffering with a viscous lsd... Seriously though, they are just a clutch pack LSD, actuated via computer controlled hydraulic pressure. I'm wondering what it is that causes them to go bad. I have read that they don't like too much heat, and over 350kw they would appear problematic, but I'm unlikely to test that limit. One interesting thing i read, they lock more with increasing lateral g, which seems sensible. However- if you have installed an ATTESA controller, typically these reduce the lateral signal, to get more front drive, but as you can see this would reduce lsd lock at the same time. I'm fascinated by the computer control, so hopefully I'll try it one day! On the lookout for cheap R34 v-spec attesa pro ecu's

Very nice. I have an R34 25gt-four sedan with a RB25DET neo 4wd from a stagea swapped in. Give me a yell if you want any ATTESA wiring help, i have the pinouts and wiring colours of some of it. I had to rewire the plugs from the ECU loom (which i swapped in) to the gt-four rear ABS/ATTESA loom.

No. R34 is different. Steering rack has a different mount on driver side.

So what happened to yours - did it gradually stop locking, or stop all of a sudden? I'm interested in how they go bad. I assume you have bled the hydraulic line that activates it (bleed nipple on top of diff)?

I have read varied opinions regarding whether the factory electronic sensor from R33/R34 will or won't fit into the R32 box. I haven't tried it. Did some research though, the speedo drive gear on the output shaft is the same, R32 to R33. I think even the rear housing is the same. Also, correcting myself from above, GT four is factory with 4.363 gearing.

Probably the speedo is wrong because the speed sensor pinion from the gt four wasn't fitted into the R32 gearbox. The gt four has 4.34 diff gears, whereas gtr has 4.11, so you need to use the correct speedo sensor pinion. I have a R33 gtr gearbox in my R34 gt4 - in fact you can swap an auto 4wd gearbox speedo sensor into the manual box. This is what i did. In other words, you need the R34 gt four speed sensor, to match your diffs. Note that I'm assuming the car has kept the 4.34 diffs, not swapped to 4.1. Either way, they just have to match.

I daily my 1998 ENR34 GT-FOUR sedan. It has a Stagea neo rb25det in it, 33gtr 5sp, nismo twin plate, and currently stock R34 GTR suspension. It looks like shit at the moment, a few dings and a dodgy white bonnet, but I seriously love driving it! Am slowly improving things. Sedan is nice for some things, I have two kid seats in the back for instance.

Maybe the new cams are letting more oil out than stock cams? They are the end of the oil pressure chain in the head aren't they?

I am trying out the OEM store on rhdjapan.com - so far their customer service has been superb.

I got the plastic side pipes OEM through amayama.com, my core was ok though.

Believe it is the N/A R34 head which has the smaller ports than R33, NOT the turbo head.

Semi-related - i have an R34 GT FOUR, with a RB25DET conversion. I'm keen to understand if there is a difference in ATTESA maps between GTR and GT4 (I expect yes, given the difference in diff, suspension, wheels etc). Where I am up to is trying to connect to the ATTESA ecu via consult. I have written some code to connect to the engine ecu successfully, still working on talking to ATTESA. With the engine ecu you can read the maps out via consult - hopefully this is possible with ATTESA also. Can at least monitor running values, according to the service manual, includes all the sensor values and the ETS solenoid current.

Was yours originally helical Kinkstaah? Series 2 GTT right?

East Coast JDM are great - they looked through all their rear subframes for me when i wanted to swap from non-hicas to a hicas subframe (with lockbar). Hey i'm in Newy too. I have a dodgy looking silver GT-FOUR r34 sedan, with a turbo stag motor.

R34 GTT rear knuckles are also aluminium alloy with the same forked shock mount. However they come with the smaller driveshaft spline I believe. I am using these with 3x2 bolt driveshafts.

Yes for R34. However R33 v spec had same spring rates and no diffuser (but you could put a lot of wing on the rear from what i have seen).

Surely it would muck up because the pivot points in your steering arms will be offset to the drivers side, but your control arms pivots will be in the original location. Sounds like weird bump steering issues to me.

So just to chuck in another semi-related question - why does the v-spec have 4kg/mm front, 5kg rear spring rates, compared to say your "normal" MCA or other setup for a GTR, which would be biased the other way? Assuming Nissan did this to get the car to turn (less understeer). Have also read that the damping on a v spec is biased soft on compression in rear, harder at front, to change the balance back a bit. Anyway would like to hear any thoughts on the difference in spring rate front to rear, in a 4wd. I have a ENR34 sedan with a turbo stag motor and all stock R34 gtr suspension components at the moment, so 3.2kg/mm front and rear.

Remember the check your rubber fuel return line in the engine bay for a restrictor, it feels like a hard bump, mine was down near the damper that turns 90deg. My rail pressure was out of control with a walbro 460 because of the restrictor.

Yeah if you know what you are looking for (hard bulge in the stock rubber hose, not far from the return line damper that turns 90 deg) then it's easy to find.

Had a bad issue with high fuel pressure in my gt four with a Walbro e85 pump. My factory fuel return hose had a restrictor in it (scottynm35 has seen one in a S15 before). This was an R34 RB25DE model, I now have a Stagea DET engine in it.

GTT also has alloy uprights at the wheel end like GTR. I believe the hub is different though to suit a larger driveshaft.

Subframes will go in either car, but beware the subframe mounting bushes, they are different from 2wd / 4wd. 4wd has a taller centre pin in the bushes, which positions the crossmember lower in the car.

I am currently having issues with getting power through the fuel tank lid to a Walbro 450, all started after the wires inside the tank shorted. Have tried two lids and can't get power through reliably, am now guessing the plugs on top and/or bottom of the lid are fubar. Now considering ditching the factory wiring plugs and putting two bolts straight through the lid, sealed of course, with eye connectors on top and bottom.

Dang. If it was the other silver (kr4) i would have taken all the panels [emoji19]