dr phil

Gday, do you know which silver these are? Are they KV2 athlete silver or KR4 Sonic silver? They look KV2 to me but hard to pick in a photo.

Oh - well that is the location in an R34 anyway, may need to check an R32 manual for location.

Attesa pump motor relay switches power directly from the battery, so if that relay was stuck on, the ATTESA pump would operate continuously. I'd start by checking that relay, it is in the engine bay, driver side, close to firewall.

So - the answer was bad insulation in the tank, wires shorting. Glad it didn't blow up! Yeah I'm currently triggering relay from relay, will rewire that soon, and do the secret squirrel trick at the same time.

Yes, ok thanks - it didn't sound right to me either. Looking at the walbro specs I shouldn't be near 30A currently. Forgot to mention that both times it has broken on me, car was running for about 10-15 mins first, OK when cold. So either have a problem in the tank, or pump is faulty.

Hi - what size fuse is everyone using with the 450lph e85 walbro pump? I was on stock wiring for a few months (bad I know), R34 gt4 so no variable voltage, but then popped the standard 15A fuse. Have just rewired with 8 gauge and a relay, ran for about 10 minutes, then blew a 30A fuse. Any thoughts? Is the pump dead or do I need to go higher in the fuse rating?

Hi - got a strange question about ATTESA error codes in an ENR34 Sedan, which set of codes does it use? Unfortunately it doesn't match the supplement 1 service manual, in that I am getting a code 72 from the abs light diagnostic, in the manual that is for R34 V-spec only ie ETS-pro. But I am also getting code 12, which is listed for basic ETS (non-pro). Anybody know?

Funny answers aside - perhaps your idle control valve (AAC) is stuck open, might be worth giving it a clean out. Popping is a bit odd though, sounds like you have a couple of problems going on.

It's a pain in the ass to change the clutch in one. The attesa is front wheel drive biased, with a viscous coupling to the rear drive. They are a nice quiet smooth car.

I think I found some of the answer, without the extra height some of the attessa gear wouldn't have room. I guess my real question is, between a 2wd chassis and 4wd, are the crossmembers at the same height from factory. If they are, that would mean the chassis mounting face is at a different height. The mounting pins are definitely longer in 4wd, and bush is taller. The other option would be that the chassis mounting face is at the same height, but all else being equal that would put the crossmember lower in the car which I wouldn't have expected.

Alright gurus - why are R34 rear crossmember bushes a different height between 4wd and 2wd? Swapping crossmembers in a GT FOUR, to use alloy rear hubs, but now unsure which bush, and therefor what height the crossmember should be at.

The answer was to get new inserts made up to suit the 12mm bolts and hubs. Thanks Ben C34!

G'day - trying to figure out a brake upgrade, my GT FOUR came with 12mm brake caliper bolts, I was hoping to upgrade to GTT brakes, which take 14mm bolts. Are all 4wd front hubs alloy? Can you safely drill out the hub to 14mm? Is that the best option?

Hi all - very stock good condition factory manual R34 GTT Sedan for sale, car is in Newcastle, NSW. Asking $11,999, which is good value for a factory manual. Athlete Silver, Factory Xenons, 70,000km on the clock but I believe the real kms are more like 175,000ish, as major service had been done before I got the car, and that would seem more realistic for the age. Has an exedy heavy duty organic clutch, is otherwise stock. View on carsales, or pm me for details. https://www.carsales.com.au/private/details/Nissan-Skyline-1998/SSE-AD-3611401

I am currently putting a Stagea Neo rb25det into an R34 gt four sedan... Mainly because I really want a sedan, as well as 4wd. The guys are right, there are a lot of things that will need to be changed, which you just get included with a GTT or GTR. If you really want to do it you need to swap motors - the stock gt4 Neo motor internals are not up to the task, you need a factory turbo motor.

Is this still for sale?

Just to be clear, I mean the all wheel drive R34 sedan.

Wanted : R34 GT Four (GT4) Sedan. Preferably NSW, send me a pm if you know of one for sale. Thanks.

How do you test whether a bov is leaking (a plumb back bov)? Do you just block off where it returns to the intake, and leave the return line open after the valve, pressurise the intake and see if it leaks?

If you have a laptop and cable try reprogramming it through LM programmer. Also check all your earth wires to it are secure.

Does anybody know of any decent rb25 results with a vertical flow intercooler? Wondering if this would be a good option to keep all the pipework on the passenger side, but still make some serious power. Was looking at some Treadstone performance cores, the CV25 core is 150x635x90mm. Looking at another thread on a vertical flow install into r34 that might just fit with no reo cutting (I haven't measured though). With the Treadstone end tanks on top and bottom that would work out as an intercooler totalling 330mm high... What would the disadvantages be? Maybe a bit less intercooling effect? Should pose little flow restriction though right..?

Oh, there they are in light blue. Hey I fixed them up, ENHANCE!

Stao - was that last Dyno graph you posted supposed to be blank? Also, how do your latest ATR45 results compare to the Neo Stagea result a couple of pages back? Are they similar, but different dynos? It was over 400kw.. Sorry - last question! Can you provide an Adaptronic e1280s along with your turbos, rather than the Select model? They have full sequential ign and injection, more flexible, and still have the rb25 style ecu plug.

What was the cable fault? I have a similar problem with GTT, when I plug my eBay connector in I eventually get the SLIP and MIL lights, and it doesn't register any vehicle speed.

What exh housing was in use with the 5858? Other specs? Great result...