GTAAAH

Ah thanks godzilla, the noise stays constant through deceleration (i didn't think it would totally cut the injectors on backoff) so i guess it must be the lifters that are the problem.. which isn't really a problem after all. thx for the help

looking for a new, cheap clutch for my car to handle 300kw eventually.. my mate has this clutch in his gtr, which has 280kw http://www.sunburybrakes.com.au/prod11.htm ($499, guy claims 300kw capable) and i was thinking of getting the same thing just after something cheap.. anyway i believe my car currently has a twin plate clutch in it (which is fkd) and have heard that i will need to get a different flywheel to match up with this single plated clutch.. is that correct? which kind of flywheel would it be, just a standard one machined?

er for some reason my edit button does not show up, so i'll have to update this with a new post: two mechs from my work said it's either a noisy lifter or injectors so hopefully some nice engine oil will fix the problem

passenger footwell area, it's behind a kickplate underneath and to the left of the glovebox.. you'll need to remove the side panel to get at it

k it's all back together and car seems to run fine.. bit of a ticking sound i can hear from outside car or bouncing off walls.. i havnt had this thing on in ages but think that was there before hand.. how noisy are the injectors in these things? i'm thinking it's that.. anyways hopefully i'll drop by a mech tomorrow and get them to take a quick look, then it's clutch replacement time thx for the help guys (in the other thread too)

ah yeh i have the half moon key slotted in ok, just wasn't sure, what your saying makes sense because obviously i didn't stop the engine at tdc hehe, bit of a brain fart there.. car will be all back and going tomorrow hopefully after hogging the garage for 4 months hehe and the belt was changed as part of my buying deal, just before i bought the car and hasn't more than 2000km's on it, it looks fine so i see no need in replacing it

OK that's all done but 1 other question i have.. does the engine need to be set to TDC when your putting the CAS on? i marked it and (altho the markings have faded) think it's real close to where it was.. but i'm just wondering if the positioning of the engine will make a difference? Also this thing you can adjust left and right to retard/advance timing right? ty

hmm so to line it up without markings would i just make sure the idler side is real tight and then tighten the tensioner side so it's tight as well, or is it still possible it can be a tooth out on the idler side and i'll need a new belt? (this one is only a few thousand k's odl)

eh anyway after alot of screwing around i'm putting my belt back on my car.. now the only problem i have is lining it all up. I've attached a few pictures showing the gears lining up with the backing/key hole.. i just want someone to verify that that's where u line these little nubs up at. The engine is at TDC Also on the cover for my exhaust cam gear (vac holder thingo) theres a white mark, which lines up with the mark on the exhaust gear.. which i'm assuming is all good. Other question i have is where do u line the marks on the timing belt up with? do they line up with the white marks on the backing plate behind the gears(and the slot on the bottom one) or somewhere else? (i cant use the ones i marked on the timing belt because i'm wondering if it may have skipped a gear) Also my exhaust cam seems to be a tiny bit more advanced than the other one.. they're normally exactly opposed right? i can twist it back a tooth by hand

thx.. for all i know it's perfectly fine.. was running with no bearings in the tensioner for a while, just slipping over the tensioner and not rolling it.. belt didn't get frayed either strangely enough have got a few pm's from ppl i'm responding to

the engine was still running okay (with the noise) it wasn't till one morning it didn't start and probably only turned over a few times.. i'm hoping the belt just slipped back a few teeth, screwed up the timing and that's why it didnt start.. otherwise will sell it as is.. so over skylines now

Yo, got a gtr sitting here in pieces, been like this 3 months, im over it (tensioner bearing died just b4 i had it booked in to get the noise checked).. Just needs the timing checked (i'm scared it skipped a tooth so will need to check cam timing and whether engines tdc) and belt put on, then front cover and belts, i can do radiator and all that myself easily enough.. just to lazy to put it back together, anyone know a joint who will come out and do it for me? or anyone wanna come gborough and do it for like 200 bucks.. it's probably 1-2 hours work max.. have a full garage with all tools etc, but cant be fkd towing it to a joint and i'm paying 2800 insurance a year for a car i cant drive z

damn nice celica's, hopefully mine will eventually end up looking that good, going to be soft and leave the engine stock though, might put a slightly bigger carby on it (idk if mines wrecked or what but atm you don't get any more power from 3.5krpm and up, it's faster to change gears at 3.5 heh) thats about it, has some extractors so sounds alright.. but who knows, at the moment i wanna use this as a daily, get rid of the gtr and get a bike. i checked that sleeka spares site out but none of the parts catalogues loads for me, will call them later, looks like a good bet as they specialise in them thx for the info

Ah ok, i did sign up there yesterday but haven't been aproved yet (i signed on ozcelica about 2 weeks ago and cant post yet either ><) Heres a pic.. was a $900 car, engines sweet, interiors nice exterior has some dings but a respray and it'll look mickey

oh true, i've called a few dealers in aus and managed to find new weather strips and 1 slightly cracked parking light (which i decided against) pain in the butt that these are so hard to find parts for

Anyone know where a good place to look for celica parts is? I'm after front quarters, some kind of lip for the front bottom bar, 2 new driving lights and a bit of misc. have signed up to a few celica forums, and they just say check ebay there has to be someone who makes aftermarket parts or specifically deals in ta22 celica's any suggestions would be awesome

oh cheers for the link, dunno how i missed that one, i guess ima have to get my head right down in front it to find these crank pulley markings (not harmonic balancer markings) i want to get this damn thing on the road and would love to just tow it somewhere but i just bought another car and have no $ z Come to think of it, i can line up the crank using the markings on the balancer anyway as it's keyed to the pulley

Yo, i have a workshop manual, but at 800 pages, and in PDF format (can't search) i'm not getting very far with it. (alot of the articles in it are just pull apart pictures, and guides on how to use special nissan-specific tools) I couldnt see a mark on the crank pulley unfortunately, the only marking on it is slot for the key, so i was just going to pull a plug out and rotate the engine manually until it was tdc and go from there, was a bit worried i might bent something though?

A while ago the tensioner bearing went in my engine and i had to replace it myself on account of not being able to drive + having the car at the bottom of a hill, from memory the last time i tried to turn it over it stuttered , tried to start and then stalled, so i'm thinking/worried(if it's possible from all the strain of no tensioner bearing (it had no bearings in it)) the belt may have skipped a few gears and it threw the timing out. I am going to Adjust it so it's TDC tonight but am not sure how to line up the inlet/exhaust cams. I have noticed theres 2 white marks on the backing plate (behind the gears) and another two white marks on the actual gears, i'm guessing these have to line up right? One of them is about 4 or 5 teeth out of sync it seems (as in if i straightened the inlet 1 to line up the exhaust one would still be out by about 20 degrees) Anyways, so do i just make sure the engines TDC, and line up the white marks from hand, put the belt on and hope from there? (also theres a white mark on the little cover that goes over the exhaust cam, do i disregard this?) Any helps cool, thx

cheers dude, ordered some from bearing industries, $110 for both inc. gst and postage, which is hella cheaper than from nissan

I get this too, slow and jerky when it's cold (but up higher rev's it's fine) it's only started since swapping from two r32 gtr afm's to two r33 gtr afm's.. I spose it's good in one way because i always have to wait for the car to warm up b4 driving.. but it's annoying as

Yeh i know ay, lucky as I've been searching for a while and managed to find the part number of 1 of the bearings but can't find the other so i'll dwnld and install FAST tonight and see if that helps me (I'm assuming it has all the part numbers for these things on it)

TENSIONER: NSK 60TB 0732A IDLER:NSK 56TB 2801 B01

pics of the fan? i'm looking for one in good nic

K finally got around to pulling this off (had problems with the pulley remover.. needed to cut some stuff etc to make it fit), one of the tensioners was bearingless and they had collected just below the crank gearing (they fit in the gap luckily so didn't cause jamming), anyways, if possible does anyone know the serials for the idler pulley and the belt tensioner? I was going to go to our local nissan dealer and just ask for them but i'm sure they'll charge like crazy cheers