GTAAAH

yo, he told you "not to take the boost over 1 bar and to bring it back to him after I had done 1000kms for a oil filter change" right, did he tell u you would need the new ECU before you could drive it? Is it using standard turbo's? If your running standard boost, on standard spec internals with standard turbo's then you having a boost controller won't make any difference..

Yo i've had apexi's, HKS, K&N and my mates have had others but by far the loudest is the DRiFT pods you get from autobarn. They have the meatiest suction sound too (my hks ones atm for example sound odd and tinney compared) The ones you'll want are the blue ones as they're dry type

Nah i only have the standard gauge which read just below 7 most of the time (but i know is innacurate) i was planning on a powerfc soonish so didn't bother with a gauge I've only driven it like three times while it was cutting and only had it cut on me about 3 times (soon as it cut i went oh f**k and backed off) i did think it was cutting due to the AFM's though .. probably would have preferred that, lucky i didn't really drive the car much while it has been screwing up hehe

yo so i just bought the AFM's for nothing it seems >.< The car started cutting out a while ago at cruising speed so i naturally thought "afm" so i sprayed it with carby cleaner and it stopped cutting out randomly but started cutting out up top So i replace the AFM's with r33 gtr ones and it goes a bit quicker and doesn't cut once through the rev range, then starts cutting above 4/5k again And after all that (and after regapping my plugs to .8) i notice this shit infinite boosting ftl... i'm happy i was babying it now and only ever hit cut like 3 times haha, would have been nasty if i had kept trying ><

eh ok i'll try it, weird if it fixes it though because it'd mean something in the car wasn't running to standard spec, thx

OK so they read weirdly so i bought some R33 GTR AFM's and installed them I immediately noticed that the car was a lil rough down low but it smoothed as rev's increased I took it up the highway and went through first 2nd and got to the top of 3rd without any fuel cuts, then it cut right up the top From then on every time i hit around 5k it does the same cutting crap, not quite as violent, and seems to accelerate quite a bit faster with these AFM's So anyone got any idea wat else i could try?

i'm actually quite surprised this didn't get closed, it's turned into a Vs. thread massivellllly (r32 ftwwww)

Yeh, it's funnier still because he doens't even have a line and is going for something sr20 powered next ^^

Hey dude, check out my topic: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/St...ad-t194787.html it's probably your AFM, spark related problems normally show up higher in the rev range from my experience

Oh true, i was expecting 2 line-ins for the AFM's, for some reason Thanks! i'll check this out tonight

hmm, is it possible to check this out without moving? If not, i'm thinking: jam multimeter probes into connector up next to/touching the wires, tape probes, go for drive and get sum1 to check things out as i accelerate and look for signal in the range of (<insert signal range here>) Does that sound right? Also does anyone know what the wires are called or what colour they are? (i'm thinking AFM input or smtn) i'm pretty sure the workshop manual has some pretty simple diagrams of the ECU which will probably answer my question when i get home anyway, if not

Hey one other thing is spacers, i've seen quite a few sets cause bad vibrations especially if they're cheap ones so if you've got some installed check that out too

TURNS out after all that, that the thread for the cap to go on, on top of the radiator was slightly bent, letting the water seep out, 2 taps with a hammer and hasn't leaked since, ._.

i wasn't sure about the .8 gap actually, i had it at .8 with the previous coil packs, but as these new ones function 100% and i was pretty sure stock gap was 1.0 i thought i should stick to that, I don't have an aftermarket ECU or one of those console things unfortunately, i checked all the wires going into the AFM but i guess the ecu isn't hard to get to.. but how should i check them? am i just checking resistance or am i turning the car on and looking for varying voltages? i suck at auto elec stuff

I just want to verify that theres nothing besides AFM's that can cause the car to cut out above 4000rpm (sometimes it jerks around a bit, normally just a few loud bangs and a slowing off revving b4 i quickly back off) Car is a totally stock r32 GTR It used to have a missfire right up top (5000+) but it was nowhere near as bad and new coil packs and plugs fixed it (which i left standard gapped at 1.0) For a while 1 of my AFM's was messing up and causing the car to die randomly (on freeway etc) but i checked all the solders, replaced the wiring and sprayed some carby cleaner through both and the random dying problem is gone and has been replaced by this big cutting-out (dont know which i prefer, it used to rev out ok if a little slow). I was thinking it is possibly overboosting, it's noticeably a bit faster since i cleaned out the AFM's (before it cuts) BUT it wouldn't make sense that it's overboosting now as i didn't touch anything boost related so yeh just wanted to know if theres anything else it could be before i fork out $240 on 2nd hand AFM's (i plan on getting z32's in 3-4 months which makes it more annoying) cheers

Umm i'll have a look on the net and try find one, they're close to the same price as the supercharger kits, my mate has a super kit he got for 5200 installed and it eats my old 220kw gts-t, v8 is a better base to build power on and they sound better, stock for stock i'd probably go the 6T, but the 8 is a better base to build on EDIT: cheapest TT kit i can find is 8k, maybe i was tripping

lol @ matchbox styles Also lol @ rb20 = boat anchor, that means they should be in the 33 because they're a boat Actually i would probably get a S2 33 over a non-type M 32 (with the nice front bar)

no they're advertised in ford performance and i've seen them in street before, they have plenty of supercharger kits for around that price too.. it's a heck of alot easier to make big power on the 8's than the 6's

damn this game looks sweet as! Will it run on med/high graphics on a AMDx2 6000+, 2 gig 800mhz ram and a 7600GT card? I am going to buy it tonight if yes, am sick of buying games and them not running well heh

:laughing-smiley-014: +1

bump, i want a 2nd hand surround thats in good condition, cant afford a new one, crazily expensive shtuff new thx for the replies

Depends on what you want to do with it... definitely do not agree that xr6t> xr8 from a mod viewpoint.. for 5k u can get the twin turbo kits for the xr8's which bump power to 440ish.. the xr6's are faster stock.. but the xr8's sound a hell of alot better

depends on taste i guess.. How is it sad? Paying more for a car you prefer is never sad in my books.. I f**king hate 33's to tell u the truth can't stand the styling, for me r32 GTR > everything hehe

Yeh, that law applies to people who have gotten their license since july so.. in about another year or 2 number of P platers in turbo's gonna drop alot and i'm guessing prices on these things will to

You also have gotta keep in mind (as sum1 stated last page) that in VIC (at least with current rules) 32 gts-t's are the highest powered skyline u can drive (they come in at like 124kw/tonne, your allowed 125kw/tonne) and almost the fastest car under those rules as well, most people who have done their research in VIC look for 1.. Mine cost me 11.5k almost 3 years ago from an importers.. 15k is too much for private but.. you see some importers ask 13ish and i've seen 30+ a few times for 32 gtr's, some people are just wack