GTAAAH

hehehehe fair call Although..15k does sound like alot.. my gtr only cost me 15k

http://www.boostcruising.com/forums/index....howtopic=251705 oO, yours too?

ah ok thanks guys, the 2 channel has out's but not enough and the 4 channel hasn't any outs so i'll grab one of those splitters tomorrow

ah ok cheers! wasn't sure whether these would drop quality, almost bought a new head-unit today, luckky Also should i split off the L and R rear channels or the L and R front channels? I'm thinking rear

Yeh it's an aftermarket aluminium racing style one,

I can't afford to replace my head unit at the moment but want to install another amp Currently it has 1 amp which uses 4 RCA connections (2 front 2 rear) and the head unit has 4 RCA out's I want to install a mono block with 2 RCA outs (i am pretty sure i only need connect 2 of them) but am unsure how to get these RCA's Any suggestions, the head unit only has 4 RCA outs

OK so on the RB26 u need to remove the inlet manifold piping that comes from the battery tray (the rubber 4" tube) to get at the back bolt, and to remove the top one u need to pull one of the hoses that runs fuel apart and use a ratchet with an attachment that allows u to use it from angles other than straight huge pain in the ass taking the thermostat out ! The water pump blades i can't see but can feel, they feel perfect so am hoping a new thermostat will fix it, my old thermostat seemed to be jammed half open so i'm not sure (cbf boiling it either, new one was $30) Anyone got any idea on whether the metal tubing being pinched in post 1 would make a difference to flow, and should i bother fixing it/replacing it? thanks

MM ur right i am pretty sure it's what i'm looking for but, does anyone with a gtr know whether i'll have to remove the water pump & intake manifold to get to the thermostat? Theres not enough room to move anything, and the workshop manual only has info on testing it not removing it for some reason

garrrrrrrrrrrrrrrr gtr is in pieces, http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Wa...-R-t193870.html damnit Valiant is in pieces too, and i somehow don't think the rolla gonna be anyfun so i'm out :<

K so 2) would the pipe being pinched make any difference to flow etc, i.e. should i worry about it and 3) where is the thermostat in these things.. some pics enclosed, i'm trying to find it so i can boil and test it, it doesnt seem to be in the same location as the 33 one in pranks guide Cmonnn sum1 out there has to know the answer to 1 of these >.< I was thinking it was part of the inlet piping that the radiator was attached to, now i'm thinking it's on the block side of the thing i'm touching with my finger in the 3rd picture. I will have to remove the inlet manifold to get this off correct?

found the pressure release Now just wondering answer to 2) thx

nvm about the AFM, just need the surround now

oO ouch! Did you have some circulation still? my water level increases slightly as the engine rev's increase (wasn't sure if this was pressure/heat related or because the water pump was spinning faster) I'll whip the thermostat off and try see the pump, dad thinks it sounds like a fair bet, thanks Anyone got any idea on whether the pinched steel line would cause me a problem? Where is the pressure release exactly? (feel free to circle my pic) thanks

Anyone else got any input? only got a few hours b4 i go home and start working, still wanna go uot at around 10 tonight

Uh, how would i do that? remove it and boil it? because i can hardly even tell where it begins and ends lol

haha he probably knows he can beat it without an engine so he can talk as much smack as he wants till its moving again

haha @ slightly considerate bogan I took my gtr to echuca other day, had alot of bogans yelling random things at me, made me lol but no way was i gonna park my car on the street

Was hoping to get this fixed for tonight's cruise hehe, think i might be pushing it a bit

K so i just pulled my radiator off and reverse flushed it, was getting alot of brown water coming out depending on the angle i held it but it eventually cleared up.. The car has been overflowing from the cap for a fair while now (overheated other night to), and so far a gasket test and co2 test show that it's nothing engine related and a new radiator cap and overflow hose didn't help. I thought the radiator might be blocked, so i ran the hose thru and the flow was fine.. So tomorrow i will reverse flush the engine in the same way. Now i have 2 questions: 1) does anyone with a gtr know whether i'll have to remove the water pump & intake manifold to get to the thermostat? Theres not enough room to move anything, and the workshop manual only has info on testing it not removing it for some reason?? Pictures are at the bottom of this page 2) I've noticed the lil hose thing on my car is pinched in 2 places, first pinch is about a 40% pinch (40% obstruction) and 2nd about a 20% pinch, i've enclosed pics but was just wondering if this pinching was likely to be what is causing pressure to build up and over flow the radiator? If not, should i replace it anyway (it's pretty much off) Thanks in advance peeps Have also put a pic of the brown stuff in the radiator (which seems to be rust, but makes no sense as the last owner definitely ran coolant and the radiator is brand spankers)

K so no longer need this anymore, thanks though people (GTR overheated badly today, it's going to be in the mechs for at least a week :<)

This games too nuts graphic wise methinks, i was looking at it ran on High settings (not very high) with 4XAA and the 8800GT was struggling, hit a low of 10 FPS, and that's like one of the best cards around (are a few better tho)

Most things soft will work well, stay away from nanga's and cheap hard crap, i'm going 225 SPMAXX's on my 19X10's (hopefully) I'm not worried about traction, using $50 fuldah discontinued stock at the moment so can't get much more slippery hehe Try avoid rims with "sidewall protection" as these generally have these generally sit funny and limit flex

Yeh, look like drifteks to me too, the spoke seems to come out longer than usual but it might just be because of the offset

true, was trying to save a hundred bucks would suck if i bought a new 1 and the problem still wasn't fixed bl on the circuit board ^^ i snapped the casing a lil trying to get the black cover off but no dmg's luckily

S2 and S1 are the same except that the S2 have a lighter impeller wheel than S1 (slightly faster spooling) .. only the 34 neo turbs have bigger housings i'm pretty sure (vg30 rear)