GTAAAH

Hey if you figure out exactly what is the problem PM me or something. No one else besides you and me seems to have had the problem with losing steering until you turn the car off, and no one seems to know anything about it.. So yeh, if u figure it out, give us a yell.

Could be a rooted fuel pump to. Or a clogged filter

Madness, ill go check it out, was hoping it was just a matter of replacing the bulbs but thought i might need entirely new units or something. Thx

yeh, it has the aftermarket wheel kit and stuff. Sucks that you cant enter HICAS diagnostic from a easier technique. I mean honestly -_- turn steering wheel left and right 5 times, tap the brakes, drive forward slowly? Sounds like Something out of a Fairy tale, Zzz. Guessing ill have to just splurge and buy one of those $150 locking bars/kits and get rid of hicas forever. Hope they dont cost much to install Thx

hmm ive done 6000 k's on mine, and they are looking pretty sick (back have significantly less tread than front ones.. dunno why) but they grip just as well as they did when they were brand new some how. About half a second of spinnage, when i drop the clutch from 2.5k.. same as it was the day i got them new.. Weird Dunlop 3000R's or 3000A's? i havn't heard of 3000r's b4

ahh true, ill have a look tonight, roughly where are they?

Basically if theres no street lights around i really struggle to see. All is dark. Almost mooshed a wombat the other day, but saw it just in time. My lights seem to be pointed down alot but idk if that makes sense, because when i put high beams on there aimed up nicely. So yeh, will i be able to just adjust my lights or will it be beams to, (off the top of my head im pretty sure its 1 unit and aiming beams up any higher = illegal) or will i have to grab some new globes for it? Or is it a sealed unit and will i have to buy new lenses to? Thx Oh yeh its a r32 gts-t

Yeh, they sound ok, i might give em a run (although my family will kill me for not using goodyear/dunlops) Sucks that SPMAXX"s are so dam expensive, will look dodgy having different tyres front to back Err what are you guys getting in the way of average tyre life on your average high end sports performance tyre anyway? I got about 4-5 months out of my SPMAXX's

yaa cool now the next generation of P-platers will know how to drift on suburban streets, without having to worry about losing control If vicroads is going to start focusing on extensive driver training courses its just as important that every one has to sit the course as it is to P-Platers to sit it. Should be every licence renewal if they want to train us, and it should come out of vicroads budget as well (not be lumped in with the renewal or the licence testing fee's) That said, i think 90% of P-Platers would be quite happy to do the course provided vicroads pay

ermm ne 1 know how to enter it?

oh yeh totally forgot about that topic, was reading it the other day to zz Thanks

hahaha yeh i havee

Hmm was just looking at my back tyres and there pretty low on tread so i need some new ones. Any suggestions on something in a 17" on 7" rims? About the $200 mark per tyre would be good, i dont have the money to buy another pair of $350 ones atm. If its not worth getting $200 tyres ill save, suggestions?

K, paid up, i mailed you the receipt and my address It should be in your account by now, cheers

Update, Getting a r34 Neo turbo for it No longer need this

Yeh so anyway, after driving about 30 seconds - 5 minutes my steering goes heavy then some minutes later HICAS light comes on. I think its fuel related (not the actual fuel but something near the tank perhaps) as it happens randomly and if it fixes itself temporarily its when i refuel to like half a tank. It was also temporarily fixed when i installed a new pump. Any way im assuming there won't be many suggestions so i was just wondering if any 1 can help me access the HICAS diag on a 32 gts-t The guide i read said turn the wheel about 40degree to left and right 5 times (so left 5 times right 5 times? or 5 in total?) then tap the brake 5 times and then tap it once more (umm.. So i tap it 5 times, leave it a sec then tap again or do i just tap it 6 times) then move forward for 10 meters at a pace under 5km/h Any way so any help would be cool, thx

just waiting for the stupid Pay office, to get there act together, should be 3 more hours at latest, thx for your patience

Yeh, ok ill take the turbo and the ducts/elbow (Not quite sure whether its needed to fit, but im assuming they do?Probably need replacing if i'd use my old ones)

cheers moiyt Its a direct bolt on like the 33 turbo then, coolnezz thx

Hmm slightly larger rear housing huh.. (housing for exhaust wheel?? Same sized connections though right, but it might not fit under the standard heat shield? Sry, i didnt think was worth searching for, assumed both were the same.. Ill do one see if it helps Hmm, i got 11 pages of topics without mention of "NEO r34 TURBO" in The majority, weird search function on this site >.< All i found was "If he puts more boost into it (above another 1-2psi) it will fail under extended load" (quoted from you, talking about a 32 NEO) Which sounded odd, because mose people say that the 33 turboes are good for 14 psi on a rb20 which is a increase of 5 over standard. Granted that the r25 will put more strain on the turbo than the rb20, id think what this seems to suggest is that a standard series 2 turbo would be more reliable? Or am i way off? thx

The 34 NEO turbo is almost the same as a series 2 r33 turbo right (in that it has a lighter compressor wheel than the series 1) And will adapt straight on to where my old one was, in the same way the 33 turboes would? Will my rb20 wastegate actuator still fit? Im assuming i wont need to run any extra lines for oil or anything. Thanks, i just read some weird article in autosalon the other day (article on the RB series (clearly autosalon is the epitome of everything intelligent )) and it seemed to imply a different set up on the NEO's (as well as shorter life, but they probably just tripping there)

Yeh im pretty sure ill be buying your turbo, just double checking (or trying to) that they bolt on good and have nice lifetimes. Need some replies b4 i go bankrupt;

assuming its a rb20, on a stock turbo, maximum safe is about 12 psi, anything over that will drop life quite a bit. The actuator is Just below the heat shield covering the intake turbine (follow the air intake, into the heat shield) Its like a round tuna can with a metal pipe going off > and a rubber hose coming from the bottom. The rubber hose is what u hook up to your controller (you'll probably need to extend it though)

Any information on the 2nd turbo? Model or anything, so i can look it up? Thx, Pm will suffice

sold?