GTAAAH

Mines ok but, its not designed to fit the r32's that came with the electronic front spoiler/wing (Type-M ?). I have a new front on mine but still have the mounts for the spoiler/wing and it was a huge pain in the ass as these cause the intercooler to be pushed out so that you need to hack the crap out of your front bar and the grills.. All the paint on my front bar is cracking up, has strange bulges and doesnt sit right because of the extra pressure put on my frontbar. Other than that and quite a few permanently bent fins its a nice kit and performance wise its good. Hmm new turbo or respray, hmmm You will need to cut a hole (i used a drill) just below the battery. You should be able to mount it on your front bar without making up the bar that the guy above has but then youll have to drill through your front bar, as the intercooler bolts will co-incide with the font bar bolts, so if u are handy, make up the bar. It is easier to do the installation with the front bar removed, and the front of the car up on some wedges, but is possible without removing it.

Anyways i thought id just make a new topic seeing as my last post was sorta off topic Ne wayz so i put a pod on my r32 (rb0det) and know that its getting alot of hot air from the engine. So instead of trying to make a pod box (tried it.. looks bad, doesnt deflect air good, etc) i was wondering if any one knows where to get a pod box, for a decent price ($100-$150) Have had a look on nengun and other sites and all seem to cost around $250 which is just to much

hey, i been looking for a bit for a decent pod shield, can some one point me in the right direction? Looking to spend about $100-$150 on it. (to fit rb20det r32 type M) Trying not to hijack the thread, looks like your questions been answered anyway

probably just need half a meter of 2.5 inch stainless pipe and then grab some silicon hoses to suite both ends, they make them with all sorts of bends and go for about $15-$30 (should work for the right side anyway)

very nice man, a great write up, sucks u didnt do it 2 weeks ago woulda saved me some time. But what did u do to stop the hot air blowing into the back of your gauge?

erm a drift button is what exactly? A replacement button for the standard one that holds down the engage/disengage button, so that the handbrake doesnt stay up and flicks back down once u let go of it?

just thought id update this because it might be helpful to some one some where. Mechanic had a look told me i had bad flow bad pressure, so i replaced the filter and got him to chuck a walbro in for me ($300 all up, with a crazy pump price). Car is a helluva lot faster than it has ever been, even before the misfiring, when i had it running 12 psi. It has absolutely no splutters or anything like that, even droping it into 2nd from 1st @7k rpm nothing. Really rams u into your seat accelerating in 2nd (never had it happen before) and had absolutely no flat spot or power loss all the way to 6.2k, it kept moving didnt slow up at all like lots of people say happens rb20's, due to the turboes capabilities. So yeh my cars finally working and its maddd Edit - 2 weeks later problem is back hehe

eyyy, just replaced my original ones though (plugs, 3 weeks ago), things cost me like $125 @ trade price, not to keen on re-replacing them, didnt seem to make any difference to my problems when i put the new ones in. Thats sounds alot like it baron, dunno how much an alternator is worth on these things, probably 500 installed or some crazy figure like that, damn imports. I'll leave off doing it a bit as people dont seem to think its the cause of my other problems (stuttering, no power, louding backfiring noises) thx

mm running 10 psi now, since it started frigging up (didnt help though unfortunately), my plugs are the iridium tipped ones everyone uses for these (got the serials off this site) NGK's i think cant quite remember what i chucked in. Seems that theres no mechanics around who will be able to give me a straight out affirmitive answer to my problem. Can see some huge bills coming

nah seems pretty quick to crank n jump over still. Its strange then that the battery light doesnt come on. Did it this morning in traffic, heater + lights + stereo on low = HICAS light flashing == loud knocking noise. If the engine wasn't getting the spark it needed i guess this could cause the knocking? Sucks that its already at the mechanics because this sort of convinces me that my cars been having spark issues not fuel pump related problems, oh well

neighbours arent gonna appreciate the noise but meh, brb testing K tested it idling for a minute with headlights on stereo pumping demisters windscreen wipers heater cabin lights all on full, dropd from 12.35 - 12.2 (was at 12.38 when off).. Strange, hate problems that occur on and off. Break and stay broken demit. Will try drive it to mechanics tomorow regardless of whether that sound happens or not, thx. Cant believe how difficult it is to diagnose that damn missfiring at high rpm thing.. crazyness

Hmm so tomorrow my cars going in to have a walbro installed because according to the guy who checked it out its either that (causing misfires stuttering) or the timing belt is mis-aligned by a tooth. (am paying $270 for the pump and 70 for installation which sucks some serious ass because the guy i was gonna get the pump kit off, on this site sells them for $170) Any way tonight driving somewhere gave it a little gas, watched it die out harsh at about 3k and start back firing huge, and had no power by 4krpm etc, kept doing it then i ended up at my mates house. Had the car running turned on lights heater, noticed the HICAS light flickering then listened and noticed a loud knocking sound coming from somewhere under the bottom (sounds down the bottom end of the bay) Is it a frigged alternator that could be doing this? When i dont have any lights or anything on it doesnt happen.. Coil packs can cause the problems im having (missfiring at high revs stuttering at 3k) Would a frigged alternator cause my coil packs to not be getting the power they desire to run well and therefore be the cause of my troubles? (side note this only happened tonight and i have installed a sub into my car and amp only a week ago, so its a big coincidence) (Installed the FMIC and it got alot worse then replaced the fuel filter and its gotten a crapload worse since replacing that so idunknow)

Hmm i got exactly the same problem on my rb20, at the same rev ranges. Had an assessment done, was told my pump was fugged and filter fugged, replaced filter and that made it worse, so im pretty sure its pump.. Became more noticeable after FMIC install, which would lead me to believe it was packs. Sucks that theres no easy way to figure out which it is.. When i get a spare 4 or 5 hours ill have to voltage check my coil packs i spose

i see you've fixed it, but for the record, since i installed my intercooler my engine has been popping and farting at higher alot at high revs. It used to just be a flat spot. And my fuel pump is screwed, low pressure, low flow so my intercooler made MY car run more lean (and the screwed pump far more noticeable)or at least put more strain on the screwed pump, not richer

relax relax relax relaxavou. Forgot i had adjusted my boost down about 2 psi just before resetting the ecu. Would help with leaning out a high rpm, dunno about the stuttering at 3k but that wsa almost gone. For interest sake, the ecu cant change fuel flows or ne thin? Like with a carby u can adjust it to run richer or leaner, a ecu cant do that?

just to update, reset it, and it struggles less at 3krpm now. Still farts and buggers around at high revs, but when backing off fuel and letting revs drop it surges less

absurdely old topic and all but, the above list of problems do you need the ecu diagnostic tester to assess? or is there like a LCD screen in the ecu that gives u codes or a LED thx itd save me asking alot of questions if i could get these codes goin. That and i dont like pulling kick panels apart and going near old wiring if i dont have to

k thanks dude ill give it a shot. I'll post back here if i notice any difference, just hoping that itll help with the leaning out, even a tiny bit

. double post

yeh ok so ive read many people saying its good and that it should be done if the car has just been imported so it can learn our driving conditions, but ive heard many say its dumb and if anything itll mess the car up. I got quite a few problems with my car at the moment and was hoping doing this might help me with them. Mainly fuel related (leaning out, no pressure, no flow) but also boost related (got fmic and boost @ 12) as well as possibly spark related (coil packs). So anyways i figure it cant hurt to try... correct? orr incorrect ? I did search for "ecu resetting" under modifications and maintenance but got 4 unhelpful results, so if any 1 has a spare 2 seconds itd be muchly appreciated.. i did once find a seperate webpage talking about it and other mods for skylines that can be useful, which i got off this forum, but ive lost it.. to reset i think it was something like take off battery, hold down brakes for a minute or smtn

hey ive already had a look at the diy on self installation and a couple of other topics on pumps, sucks that so much changing is needed i guess ill go with one of the tomei ones that doesnt require any editing

ohhh thats cheaper than i thought, saw the price of $230 in one of the trader pages on this forum, thx for all the research to Ill have a look at the walbro or the 040's on ebay. Im assuming the walbros and the 040's dont need any mod'ing to fit on, ive seen some pictures they look easy enough, assuming you dont need ecu retuned to cope with it (maybe a reset) or a new fuel pressur regulator? Just cut some crap off the mounting brackets right? Alot of people seem to be having problems with the walbro's leaning out so ill avoid them and go the 040, what model number should i look at? all 040's are the same? can you get a Aftermarket mounting kit for 040's?

Why do you suggest going with a 040 or 044? I was looking at the 040 and they go for about $230. A stock r32 one recond (or new?) is worth like $120 according to a mechanic or 2 i know and will be easily enough to run 14 psi on a 33 turbo with minor mods wouldnt it? From what i read the standard pumps are good for 300 bhp and id be getting like 220 max with those mods methinks thx

ok cool thanks dude, you think the standard pump is good enough? ive been seeing recond ones for about $120 i think ( or im tripping) and the gtr ones for $250 (tripping?) and although im upgrading turbo id be tempted to stick with the standard 1

thanks for the help and thx GTST for the diagram, your a legend. Took it to a guy we know and he did an assessment for $60. Unfortunately this didnt include spark assessment but. he found fuel flow to be very low and pressure to be about a quarter of what it should be. Also my VAC was slightly low (no idea) and he thinks that when they replaced my timing belt they miss adjusted it by a gear. Also a possible MAF sensor fault. What do you guys think? truthfulness, how much they would effect me, would they effect me in the way i described, is it still likely to be spark issues ill try change the fuel filter (if it looks shoddy or clogged) tomorrow and see if that helps, otherwise if you guys reckon pump is a likely cause and that the guys not just being dodgey, ill probably just get a standard pump, as it should be sufficient to hold the 33 turbo im putting on soon. thx