GTAAAH

that and the cheaper kits will have crappy or no lips and will blow apart easier

side note, mine does that. When i just start it it seems fine accelerating but once it warms up or ive been driving it a while it starts screwin it. Taking it to ultratune tonight, will pay for machine hire for diagnosis but thats about it. Anything spark related is to dam tiring to get to

hmm just tried it and it works for me But do these things normally lock when the cars on and unlock when it turns off, automatically? it freaks me out

thanks for taking the time to right all that hakai, your a legend mate, ill check that out as well Um where abouts is the fuel filter on these things?

mm dunno about plugs i just put some of those iridium ones which are meant to be put in (looked the number up on the forums) Anyways, thx for all your help, hopefully i can get a good 8 hours tomorow to check it all -_-

ohhh, ballocks on the big brother thing. ill post some pics of the packs with no boots on em tomorow and will try work out which pins are positive and negative (assuming 2 are negative and 1 positive)

um which mechanics lend u a set thats working to test out O.O dont have the workshop manual either and google turns up mainly results on r32 vw golfs, although im not very apt at navigating i suppose but thankkks elite, ill check it out tomorow when the temperature reaches over 5 degrees

u wanna meet up somewhere? Ill show u my coil packs..

hmm so anyway my car has (r32 gts-t type M rb20det) been getting crudder and crudder ever since i bought it. Especially since the FMIC install. Heres the problem. At about 5k RPM it starts popping and banging alot and stutters until it hits about 6krpm when it pulls very cleanly, as well as, at about 3k rpm in 3rd gear it stutters and jerks alot, especially up hills. Now i would straight away think to myself COIL PACKS.. Seeing as generally this is what this kind of trouble is attributed to (That and just then i started it up and im pretty sure it was only running on 5 cylinders for a couple of seconds, although it could have just been abnormally rough) Now ive checked my intercooler hosing and it seems all good, but i do find it strange that it only happens at 5krpm and doesnt happen thtough to 6krpm like id expect it to if it were packs. I did take the packs out but they seemed pretty good (although i didnt look under the trumpet like boots) Also i just timed the time it took to accelerate on a flat road in 2nd gear to go from 50km/h to 80km/h and it was about 6 seconds... these things are supposed to do 0-100 in that time arent they? So what do you guys think it could be? anything i can check besides coil packs (which i cant see a way to readily check or at least cant think of a way to check) Im planning on upgrading to a r33 turbo soon and wasnt sure if i should get all this tuned now or just try hold out until i get the new turbo then get a remap for it which i assume would fix any other things that could be causing the problem (Once again my limited knowledge of cars made after 85 is blocking my mental faculties a bit) Or should i get it tuned professionally now then the turbo installed then the remap? Also is there a way to tell which packs arent working or are working inefficiently? That would probably save me quite a bit of money that a mechanic would charge for installation and new packs. Please dont just reply with "COIL PACKS" , i know some wanker will

Yeh ive had the same thing happen about 4 or 5 times still have leaking problems to. Nissan clamps suck. None of the hoses justjap gave have come off but the nissan ones will need tightening using a spanner not a screwdriver. Also i noticed that my silicon hoses went softer pretty quick so after a week or 2 u might wana retighten. About 5 of mine were loose after the first week but now they seem ok.

hmm i dont seem to get much rattle through my doors (although i only have 2) but i suppose the boot will need some work. Gonna have to get some big assed washers i guess and fix up my rear parcel shelf. thx

just finished system on my 32, took ages to install which is ok but. It vibrates a fair bit. I couldnt pin point where most of the vibration was coming from though. It doesnt seem to be the boot. Is it the rear parcel shelf mainly that vibrates on 32's? trying to figure out where to put the stuff (when i get it tomorrow)

thanks man, i just did what you said cept i ran all my wires on drivers side. Now only problem im having is with getting the stupid seats back together, i can only lift one side up high enough to get it to clip in. Will get a crow bar later and sort it out. I'll look into unhooking that black thing, test with and without it thx agian

never mind ill just try ignore the spluttering and power losses until i get the new turbo installed, then get it checked out professionally

My car is a r32 gts-t, 2 door coupe, Type M, and i cant quite figure out where to run my wires through. i cut a hole in the firewall and have run them through that through doorstep trim to the seats. Thats where the problem is really. Behind the seats is a metal backing so its very hard to run them through. How can i run them past? If i remove the seat backs will i be able to find a hole in the metal backing? thx

just need a lil more information on how to tell if there screwed. Take off the boot, then look at the bit the boot connected to i assume. That will be cracked? have hairlines? Have strange marking? Im almost totally sure its my packs, i have horrible spluttering at about 5k rpm and no balls, but ive already had them out 3 times and its getting rather tiring.

ahh crap i just took them off checked them put it all back together again. THats the 3rd time, last 2 times i ran out of time half way through.. So what your saying is most of the time, any cracks will be underneath where the plastic boot is? As in ill have to pull the boot off and the bit of plastic or w/e that connects the boot to the rest of the pack will have the crack. Correct? Also im not sure if mine are gone. The car has always dropped power from about 5000- 6000, quite a bit but i assumed that was the turbo in it. It doesnt seem to miss, but occasionally i do hear a bit of a rumble at 5k rpm. Could that be the packs or is it probably just fuel related, and the rb20 stock turbo being to small thanks

or is this not a problem on 32's as it is 33's. I had a look at some pictures of the packs in 33's and the plastic looks thinner.. The plastic bracket im talking about is plastic and has 4 screw holes in it. Its connected to the pack at either end by a piece that joins and goes into the side of the pack.

Can some one quickly explain where the cracks would appear on the coil packs on a rb20det engine? I had a look in the DIY section and theres an explanation on a 33 but my packs look different and they have a sort of plastic bracket around them that used to connect them to a metal plate but which i cant seem to remove

dont know that i agree that there were "blatantly racist overtone" of muslims being hoons, i didnt see as look as much into it. But i do know that 99% of the cars i see on the roads "hooning" are people driving VL's, VN's, VK's. XY's, Kingswoods, EL's and other fords/holdens. I mean i dont think most skyline owners are stupid enough to thrash the crap out of a performance car.. specially a manual. Most of the fords and holdens mentioned above cost below $5k are auto and are in crappy condition... Owned by sh*t knackers out to impress friends and fu*k around. Cant say ive ever seen a skyline doing a burnout or doughey's on a public road.. accelerating fast yes, not often speeding.. Today tonight using stereotypes to get a decent story again methinks

black spur is very good but its not a round trip unfortunately. Also if your headed up there at 2am, so roads will be quiet, make sure there hasnt been any rain that day, unless you like sliding.. which i dont Also try the road from heidelberg - king lake. Its ony about a 45 minute drive but mostly through forests ending at a national park. Not to bad a road, very thin and some very sharp corners, but good fun.

wheel load indexes? i didnt even know they had them.. Although i have seen a helluva lot of mis-loaded, illegal imported tyre combo's. Are The wheel load indexes the same amounts as the tyre load indexes? Ive never heard of an incorrect wheel indexing before, but plenty of tyre indexing.

MM i thought the jrdsports ones were just cheap rip offs of marks ones? As in just replicas, no effort put into them just a design stolen.. Thats what i thought anyway..

Dunlop SP Sport MAXX. Very good in all weather and conditions, which is why there getting such good ratings at the moment.. and why i put them on my car. As for the price differentiating significantly from store to store as someone said a few pages back, it is definitely a good idea to ring around. I have seen some stores sell tyres $30 a pop more than others and more.

have a look at the little wires running on the window for the rear demister. Check for any breakages. If its not that then its probably just a connection problem elsewhere so find the wire coming from near your parcel shelf, splice it and multimeter it. When you switch from hot to air or cold to hot, yours doesnt make any noise? Mine makes a whining noise and takes a bit of time so im assuming the motor which opens or closes, on mine, is on the way out, maybe yours is gone. You might wana try on a/c mode on economic mode, on no mode (no a/c or econ lights showed), on FH and FC, see if any of those make a difference.