GTAAAH

yeh, you will probably need to run a diagnostic hicas test. Search around and youll find the way of entering it. To activate it in r32 you had to twist steering wheel left and right 5 time tap the brakes 5 times then slowly take off, orr something, but i assume the 33 is activated by a switch near the ecu or something. It is usually one of your sensors not working properly. Mine messes up when i have over half a tank of fuel so im assuming its weight related and is causing pressure. If yours messes up with heat, maybe its a connection. Im pretty sure on the 33's theres just a fuse you have to remove as its all electronically controlled, so have a search for the word "HICAS" or try "HICAS r33" and you should find something

ahh thx ill go try "probe" my o2 sensor from the ecu tonight. I was about to take the 02 sensor out and test the wires connecting to it or something Might just be my driving but i get about 300k's to a tank. Ill check it out, thx

hum, a bit of a question on top of a question here but saves another anoyying topic so. I read that it is possible to check if the o2 sensor is working, using a multimeter. How exactly? I also read that if you shake it and it rattles its screwed, is that true? Bit tight on money at the moment.

ohh ok thanks, ill advise him against it. Didnt know it was only 300-400 for a series 2. Makes it alot easier for ME to afford one, assuming installation is 250 and tuning/remap is 250. The only turboes i can seem to find are the series one though, for about $400.. If thats a decent price, for one in good nick, and there only slightly slower spooling than the series 2 ill go with that

does it look like a nylon compressor wheel? its advertised as being a series 2, off a 97, 33 so wouldnt the 97 have a series 2 turbo in it?

ohh k, i thought $500 was decent? Couple of people on the forums offering me series 1 for 500, my mate saw this one before me or i'd probably have pinched it. $500 is to much for a series 1? And therefore a series to would be worth? I thought 400-500 was average price for both series. Any help is appreciated

ok so im still saving up for a 33 turbo upgrade for my 32 and was planning on buying it off some one in this forum. But my friend has the dough and is about to go with a series two, just needed some verification. Its advertised as: TURBO CHARGER DUAL BALL BEARING, You are looking at a turbocharger that was taken off a 1997 Nissan Series 2 R33 Skyline GTS-T RB25DET TYPE-M. IT USES CERAMIC EXHAUST WHEEL, WHICH IS THE LIGHTEST MATERIAL AVAILABLE, EVEN LIGHTER THAN TITANIUM WHEEL! AND HAS THE NYLON PLASTIC COMPRESSOR WHEEL FOR SMOOTH FAST BOOST. It is water and oil cooled, has absolutly no shaft play, only 45000kms old, T3 Exhaust Ok so i thought it sounded fair sweet but i dont know much about them so i thought id post some pics and people can verify the model/wheels and all that stuff

hmm, i thought i was the only person weird enough to spray a 32 yellow, seems its not to be. But just be careful who's car your egging, i dont want some one elses wrap!

ok whicked thanks for the advice. I could get the model number but id have to go searching under the house and im feeling lazy, so ill just do the blow and replace method Erm As for running power wires.. Wheres a hole in your fire wall? Drill one out? I can see one thats sorta in the wheel arch but its to hard to get to

found the problem, the underside of one of the silicon joints had a split in it Thought those things were good for a fair bit of pressure and stretching (didnt overtighten em) ive replaced it and will eventually replace them all. Its the justjap kit, all the welding is pretty mickey

yeh coils Edit: had written something else because im dopey at 1am didnt read post properly

have got a problem still tho. I get what sounds like an annoying constant beeping as soon as boost kicks in. Its not the normal turbo spooling sound and doesnt incease in frequency much.. Is this because of the new cooler or something? Or is there likely to be a boost leak somewhere

um yeh it holds the 12 psi a shitload better, bit slower to spool (barely noticeable) but yeh holds the boost beautifully

yeh was the hose, sorry if my sentences sucked, i tried to say nevermind it was a hose but came out all retarded. I think was just something to do with unburnt fuel or something causing the ticking in the inlet manifold. With hoses on its gone. Was woried

I have the type 1 i think, the one that fits r32, its quite good, some of the fins are bent permanently but it wouldnt make any difference, the clamps and hoses are very nice. Pain in the butt to install for me as its meant for a gts-t not a gts-t type M and the hoses didnt match up and kit didnt fit, but, oh well i shoulda checked that b4 i bought it Very good value for money, do a search and check out what other people said if u want

wait up, was a hose came off but was ver hard to see from the angle i was looking at lol. Um should my inlet manifold be rattling tho, the hose is on but im scared to start it as im scared it sucked up some crap into the manifold and its siting there

ok so i finally finished installing my FMIC today and went for a lil test drive in it. Had the boost controller adjusted wayyy out so stock boost. Gave it a bit and i felt it jump back alot once i hit 4.5k rpm. It used to do this before i adjusted the boost up to 12 so i just assumed it was that and got out and adjusted it up (although it had done it more than before) so i cranked it to where 12 psi is, then accelerated in 1st to about 4500 rpm. Felt a bit better until i hit the 4500 rpm then a loud bang and a whizzing sound from my turbo. Then the car stalled. .. I started it once more and it idles but very roughly and the turbo whizzes very loudly, as soon as i put any strain on it it stalls, I can hear a rattling sound coming from my inlet manifold to. Is my turbo/engine rooted? If so what would have caused it? Could it be a problem caused by some kind of intercooler leak? Edit... hose ^^

yeh thats the 1 inline fuse i shoulda been more specific, i knew it was a good idea to run and have always ran em b4. Thanks dudes ill go with the 10A

you shouldnt have to much trouble with the hybrid kits if your car isnt type M. Mine took alot of extra piping and plumbing because it is Type-M (some extra bar in the way making my cooler stick out to far and the pipes not match) but cutting out the front bar is easy enough (bye bye rigidity) I picked up the justjap kit for like $400 which is fair sweet i spose, its good enough quality (although down the bottom quite a few of the fins arent welded in str8 and are permanently mangled) Im a cheap arse so i couldnt afford a decent one that runs thru standard piping. Cutting the hole below the battery isnt so bad, its not like a chassis rail or anything (i used a drill ) but if u have the $ a arent so good with hacking stuff up with powertools (like me) its probably worth spending the extra $. Im on day 7 of installation but if ur car isnt type-M should only take a night or 2

running a 1100watt max (350 rms) sony xplod 10 inch subby and a 250watt rms xplod amp.. Was wondering what size fuse to keep it all protected.. Got some 10 amp ones, will these be OK?

dam i sympathise ive had it happen a couple of times with other cars at train stations.. Thats a good idea though with the signs..The cops should have signs that give u a rating of 1-5 stars.. 1 being lots of brake-ins 5 being that your car is almost definitely safe..

the "7 psi" is actually not psi, the 7 is measured in X100MMHG so 700 MMHG which is equal to about 14 psi. But if your gauge only goes to +3/4 it doesnt sound right.. 33's are stock 7/8/9 depending on mods (and my lvl of mental block) psi though so maybe it is right. 8 is just over half of 14 so i would expect about that on stock gauges i guess.When you get a chance, get under the bonnet, check the connections and if there all good, borrow or buy a boost gauge to check it out.

Ouch, i wont be glueing any GTR badges on mine anytime soon. (panels reserved for type-R stickers atm)

ohh there u go, crossmember, thats where i jack it off of. Whoa i was way off on the name.. For $30 at supercheap you can buy yourself some of those wedges u can drive the car up onto, get enough height to swing a trolley under. Bought some yesterday, quite good, wish i had had them before i did the intercooler install

ohh kool, im more lost than normal today, thanks.