GTAAAH

Really, hum. I thought all sorts of adjustments could be made by reconfiguring your standard engine management, evidently i thought wrong. But just to verify, you cant adjust any timing/ignition settings, fuel injection rates/grids and air flow rates/grids or anything of that sort by reconfiguring/Re-mapping your stock ECU? Or is remapping not whats being talked about here, and would that involve unlocking/installing a new "BIOS???" or what. Sorry but im fair *lost* Carbied v8's and fuel injected turbo'd v6's vary to much for me to easily come to any understanding (that and im thick as a plank )

Are you planning on doing any modifications to it soon? Its probably not worth getting it tuned/mapped now then re-tuned/mapped once u get the mods done. Some people show fairly significant gains when they have there stock ECU remapped, running boost and basic mods, im not so sure if theres much to be had on a stock engine. If its not running very well it could be a good idea

ahh k tried looking thru the suspension section couldnt see to much. Tried searching for sydney and drag suspension and got to many results and have to little time at work Ill go to google hehehe, thx

Ohh really? I suppose it IS set up for handling, uhm so tighter suspension = more bouncing, is that it? Wouldnt tighter suspension stop the sag more and help distribute weight around more evenly on take off. Not sure on suspension stuff And yeh i know 17X7 is the size of my rims, the car was nowhere near me. There 225/45R17 Dunlop SPMAXX's which is basically dunlops top performance tyre so i think there cool for a bit. Curious though, you 2 guys who ran mid 13's were your 33 turbo's high flowed? series 2 or 1? Thanks (had to spend $1000 getting a new computer to get onto SAU, just when the turbo was within my grasp demit)

whoa whicked if i can hit something like that ill be very happy, time to start looking around for a turbo to lob on. Guess the for sale section is a good place hehe.

um i placed mine just underneath my suspension arms (actual name fails me.. wishbones or something? i duno, independant bits at the front) on the rubber washers just as they join up with the rest of the under carriage. probably the best place to jack as the front as the sills will be a bit to far back for stability and are rather hard to access if youve got a kit.

running the extra 2 psi = no power gain and shorter turbine life? I have read of quite a few people running 14 psi so i assumed it would be relatively safe.. Cant see how it wouldnt equal a power gain though.. Up to a point more psi = more power.. you could probably get more power all the way until 20 or something id say (read something somewhere about flow and such which seemed to imply that too much compression would equal slow flow or impeded flow rates, something like that) correct me if im wrong

Yeh tru all that, i think its reasonably well set up with full springs shocks under konig brand name (very damn hard suspension) and some 17X7 dunlop SPMAXX's which are top of the line (not to mention i weigh 55 kilos ). Totally messed up somewhere in my readings somewhere though. Forgot to mention that i will Probably be running 14 psi on the new turbo with a remapped ecu but yeh. High 13's would be just wat i want, especially if i can get it with the series 2 turbo without having to have a highflowed one. The car could be quite detrimental to the ego's of stock $60000 performance cars everywhere with acceleration like that, sounds just about right

Just looking at upgrading my turbo soon (rb20det), r32 gts-t Type Mcurrently have the following mods 3 inch turbo back exhaust Unknown cat converter pod filter/sectioned off running 12 psi FMIC Performance suspension Looking to make the thing a bit faster. Dont car about how many KW ill be pulling (expect 190-200) Looking at the 25 series 2 turbo with the nylon wheel. Dunno if ill be able to afford a highflowed one unless i get 2nd hand or something, heard quite a few different prices but was hoping for somewhere around 800 or 900 installed. Anyway just looking through the dyno thread sticky and most people just post KW's not 1/4 mile times, although one guy posted a time of 14.65.. which is like .15 better than a stock 32 gts-t. Weirded me out. Any one give me a rough idea of what i should expect to pull on the 1/4 (e.g. how much better than the stock 14.8) on some good quality performance tyres with performance suspension with my mods and the 33 turbo? Perhaps the time rough amount faster the highflowed is gonna be, would help to if u know that. If its not significantly better then ill just leave it without the bigger turbo, and try to make do with what i have Did try do a search but the criteria is to open and at the same time to specific to get some decent results. if anyone finds otherwise, feel free to post that link here for me Some 0-100's would be handy to (stock gts-t's hitting that in about 6.9 i think)

... nvm

im 19, 2 door sports coupe.. (gts-t) just car insurance is $1800 a year for full insurance for me

very nice, i have a question, why do most people make up a mounting bar for it instead of just bolting it into the top of the front bar? Advantages? i cant weld for crap

stock boost gauge isnt in PSI its in MMHG and 7X100 MMHG is about 13.5/14 PSI (cant remember which exactly) You can individually adjust this controller, yes but you should invest in a boost gauge that reads in psi or bar first, because these will be more accurate and quite a bit easier to figure out, going by what other people are running. As for stock boost, im not sure but try running a search with "Safe BOOST R33" or something

Well The instruction on ebay said it requires basic, easy modifications and install time is 1-2 hours.. Perhaps some instructions would have been a good idea as well The other thing is i dont want my car to look like a piece of crap.. Other wise i would just hack the shit out of it I would venture to say that whoever designed the kit checked the piping matched up but didnt check that the core fit in behind the front bar. Like 5 centimeters shorter would equal a hell of a lot less cutting of the front bar and would almost remove the need to cut the supports for the front kit off not to mention move all the wiring brackets and half remove the support for the bonnet latch. Perhaps they gave me the wrong kit or something. I shouldnt need to have a engineering degree to fit it really, I can do a ground up rebuild on a 69 chrysler which included plenty of welding and custom fabricating and make it look decent.. But its impossible to install a cooler on a 91 skyline that was made to fit it without hacking up the whole ffront end and compromising my safety... riiiiiiiiiiight..

the type M bars you mean? Stock bars theres alot less of it ot f8ck up sorta. That and id have to get it resprayed. Cant believe how difficult it is to upgrade an intercooler.. I could put a fmic on a ford laser with alot less effort and cutting. SOooo angry, wanna sell car buy a barina and just forget about it

Im giving up, $450 bye bye. Cut 5/6 of the bottom of the front bar off and it still doesnt fit. The core is to big to fit. Id have to cut a hole out just under neath my battery which coincides nicely with the chassis rail. Not to mention that the amount of cutting i would have to do to my front kit would leave it flapping wildly and absolutely root it. The 600X300X75 core wont fit in the space just in front of the radiator, it gets jammed about 6 inches from the top of the front bar.. I could totally cut off the bottom of my front bar but i would lose quite a bit of stabilityand would have to mount it further forward. Which would mean even more hacking of my front type-M kit.. I can see my resale value dropping every few seconds. If the core was 500X300X75 it would fit but the manufacturers decided that a 600X300X75 that would "bolt on" would be more desirable... Even though it would require major modification.. So im selling Justjap intercooler kit if any one wants it, all piping for 32 gts-t = $450. Can any one suggest a SMIC that will give me enough flow to upgrade to a 33 turbo preferably for about $450 and definitely that wont require angle grinding huge chunks of my car away and hacking all the support off my kit..

Thats wat i was trying to ask thanks

currently angle grinding off my front bar.. Justjap intercooler kits are not BOLT ON as advertised. You need to drill holes in just about every conceivable metal panel and hack of half your kit and bumper even with the type M. If you want a cheap intercooler thats good quality then get it. If you dont like cutting bumpers up and custom fabricating joints and brackets avoid it

Ahh so they only expell part of the build up your saying, so that theres sufficient air left to help after the intake re-opens but theres not so much that it cramps and tries to get back out via the compressor. Hmm would still make sense then that no BOV would decrease the lag inherent in having a large cooler.. perhaps to a lesser degree tho

Just thinking that most of the people reporting an decrease of throttle response when mounting large FMIC's have r33's. r33's come with standard BOV's right? And they clear excess air in between the turbo and the inlet manifold right? But on cars without a BOV this space would always have backed up air, on supply, and i was thinking that a bigger intercooler size therefore wouldnt make much difference at all. Would take very little air to fill all the spaces up again. Does that work? Just thinking at work, bored out of my mind.

mm mine was showing 14 psi of boost (after translation from mmhg) whereas my aftermarket gauge was showing only 10.2 psi. I have heard of innacurate readings for it before but mainly on 32's, so..

hmm but if your getting 2 PSI less pressure lost instead of that 2 psi dissipating due to insufficient intercooler flow then you would be able to run the (rb20 for example) turbo on 14 psi with only the same strain as it would have on it at 12 psi? Or would that mean the {Impellor???} would have less strain on it than the {Compellor???} I forget the correct names for each turbine Sorry if that train of thought is wack but try answer it plz sum1

check out the 33 kits at justjap theyve got some decent ones with piping for about 600 for the 33.

Yeh it would have less lag, theoretically, and would probably be just as efficient as a bigger cooler for mid level modding. Unfortunately every kit i could find, for a decent price, with straight bolt up piping had a big assed 600X300X75 core on it, or around there. I would have prefered something like a 400X300 core but i cant see my 600X300 being to much laggier and who knows one day i might actually need a cooler this big. Only other problem is running only 2 psi over standard it is almost superfluous in my application and i have a type M front so you cant even see it

14 psi translates to 723.9 mmHg the gauge goes to 700 basically. But its very innacurate and if your boosting go out and buy a aftermarket gauge.