GTAAAH

hmm keeping in mind the 33 and 32 coolers are quite significantly different i venture to say that, thats a generalisation and power gains are possible with mildly tuned vehicles running more than standard boost. The 32 cooler was made to handle 10 psi, not more. Adding a slightly larger FMIC would see more flow more cooling, less restriction and possibly some straighter bends (gotta remember that FMIC is getting alot more air on it and cooler air is more dense than hot air = bigger/ better combustion). Adding a huge FMIC, well as paul said, the bigger it is, the less throttle response. However I struggle to believe my SMIC on my rb20 will handle the high flowed r33 turbo i wish to put on it and would significantly restrict the turboes potential (That and if i was going by that theory then the pipes leading out of the cooler that were bent almost till closing point wouldnt need replacing on my stock - mildly tuned vehicle because bigger and more flow isnt better on a stock - mildly tuned vehicle)

ahh nice i was gonna mount mine on the front bar at the top. Trying at the moment to relocate 2 little brackets on either side of the radiator which are holding electrical wires because the intercooler doesnt fit demit. Sooo cut that the intercooler doesnt fit side ways, the ad for it made it sound so easy to fit. Spewing it didnt come with any instructions either. Not sure if most people normally cut their front bar at the bottom or what but these brackets are a pain in the asssss. This thing needs to be 20 mil shorter to fit my car!! Gonna have to cut my front bar (regardless of the fact i have a type M the core seems just to big) back about an inch to move it forward around those irritating electircal-holding brackets

ahh damnation, ran into a problem already. Removed front body kit, then the horns, now i cant figure out how to put it up. Im not struggling for width but its to long! hits the edges of some clamps which cover up some wires. Which leads me to believe im trying to mount it to high up. I need a pic of some ones install on a 32 gts-t or perhaps just some instruction on exactly where to mount it. Do i mount the top of it to the top part of the front steel bumper or the bottom of the front steel bumper. If i mount it on top part of the front steel bumper itll be about 3/4 of the way up the radiator and most of the cooler will be behind the bar. If i mount it on the bottom of the bar it will be about as high as a gutter. So id assume thats to low right?

ahh!! i missed that install demit!! dunno how i missed it, ill keep going along with taking the front bar off then ill PM you when i run into a problem with the pipeing, thanks

side note i got the 32 gts-t Type M so i dont think much hacking of front bar will need to happen

Ok so it didnt come with instructions and i COULD hook it up how it looks like it needs to be hooked up, but knowing my luck ill fudge it up. So any one got a link to installing a FMIC on a 32 gts-t? I remember some one had a site with a full build up of his r32 but if lost the link. Did do a search nothing on r32 isntalls

Yeh i gathered that you were talking about the advantages a FMIC would have over the standard SMIC. Im putting a FMIC on my 32 gts-t tonight (JustJap one) ill post here tomorrow with some details, expecting slightly more lag (more air required to fill up the spaces) but also expecting it to cope with the boost a little better (running 2 psi higher than standard). Mainly changing it because ill be putting 33 turbo on soon and i know the SMIC definitely wont handle that.

mm but larger pipes = slower airflow (although allowances for more), on a rb20 few people with stock coolers claim increases. If your turbo is capable of more and your intercoolers restricting the flow then yeh itll be a increase with a better cooler but if your coolers big enough already then putting a bigger one on could drop flow my 2 cents

ahh icic, i cant see the hicas weighing more than 5 kilos so im not to worried bout that, ill get the tomei kit (i dont REALLY like removing things that dont came on the car standard) Tried pming GTRgeoff but all i got for a reply is "No" so either he doesnt stock them or make them or has none for 32 gtst

hmm i was looking at the same kit and it doesnt seem that its a locking bar. Tried mailing them but there reply to me wasnt very helpful >.< "tomei HICAS lock" in search function turned up about 3 mentions. But none explained how it would work considering it doesnt have a locking bar and the hicas system on the 32 gts-t is hydraulic and not electrical. So any one who is more apt with the search control please post I know that its a relatively popular kit but basically i want 0 movement from the back and wanted to know if this woulda achieve it thx

If it happens under heavy braking as well, then theres a good chance its tailshaft

yepx sorry if i was a bit unclear stupid work messing with my head. Gonna get the 33 turbo on first then get stock ecu retuned. Hmm i am in victoria so when it comes time, ill go looking for dr drift. Ill also look into the vg30det turbo, see if itll spool up fast enough and then decide thx guys (quick side note can some one tell me which program or how to resize pics of your car so they dont look retarded!!?!?!?!)

excellent, had no idea that it had one when i was buying it, but its definitely a plus

if your going a full exhaust system get the high flow cat as the standard ones are quite crap

just wondering if the 32 gts-t type M came out with factory LSD or something? I dont have the garage space to put it up on axle stands (to spin the wheels) or enough axle stands for that matter. I just noticed that when i take off in a hurry or im warming up my tyres it leaves two marks and not one. Weirded me out as i know very few relatively recent production cars came with LSD. If its not LSD is it some kind of traction control setup or something? Weirder still is that my HICAS messes up all the time and i lose power steering, until i take off with some revs and spin the wheels a couple of times at which stage it fixes itself! is there a HICAS sensor anywhere near any part of the drivetrain? Thanks, i dont have a workshop manual or a driver manual so SAU is my only source for some things

ah ok, ill stick with getting the stock one re-tuned, thanks moiyt

ohh nice, well it is a budget setup so am i likely to get close to the same kw/torque gains by just re-doing the standard ecu (with the rb20 turbo then the 33 turbo later)?

12 psi on stock turbo once i get the 33 ill go with the boost most 33 boosted rb20 owners go with

Ok so i have been reading up on what to upgrade and decided SAFC is the best next upgrade. Mods so far are 3 inch turbo back exhaust fmic boost controller pod I plan on upgrading to a 33 turbo (possibly buy one thats already been high flowed) and was wondering if the SAFC will still be good enough to handle it (i cant afford to go the power fc)? The turbo upgrade will likely be my last upgrade and i cant afford too much. Also is the SAFC likely to boost the performance with my standard turbo charger by enough to justify getting it tuned, until i can afford the new turbo at which time id have to get it retuned thx, i did try searching but safc in search mode only weilded about 7 results

excellent, because i planned on getting one. I was also worried about the decrease in flow rate that might occur from the bigger pipeing, but i guess you people are saying its not anything to worry about. Now to look for some injectors

hmmmm, .55 bar is 7.9750000000000005 psi if u wana be exact The stock boost gauge isnt in psi! its in some other reading, have a close look at it and itll say something like X1000mhg. At 7 on the gauge it would add up to about 14 psi, but as these things only boost 10 psi stock its rather innacurate (under full throttle mine jumps all the way to 7 which would seem to imply i was running 14 psi stock) I thought the same thing.

hold up you ARE using an aftermarket boost gauge right as opposed to the stock one thats on your dash (which isnt in psi! it reads in 1000mhg or something, 7 being about 14 psi)? 99.9% of topics say 10 psi is stock, and 12 psi is recommend (my boost gauge read at about 10.3 psi)

.55 is about 8 psi, check that your connections are all good to your boost gauge or borrow some one elses gauge to check if its not a fault with it

yeh thats true, (vicroads site says 125/1tonne, also 1 tonne per 3 litres) Most of the mods im planning wont be readily recognizable i suppose. Recently theyve had coppers out on the town satday nights (lygon street, chapel street, melbourne), canarying like crazy, for all sorts of suspension, body and other modifications as well as no Cat's, some intake mods, to loud a exhaust and having a BOV set up wrong (venting to atmosphere i assume) I hope they dont teach cops much more about cars.

in nsw theyve got a "no turbo on P-plates" rule? O.O Otherwise you can drive r32gts-t's on your P's