GTAAAH

ahh ok thanks, so im right to assume that the silver tops come with around 165 kilowatts? Stupid P-plate restrictions, allow 125 kilowatts per tonne and if that engine is 165 kilowats then that leaves the car at 124 kilowatts per tonne. Not a huge amount of space to operate with. Got exhaust boost and pod so im probably already over it, zzz

um looking at dyno figures and stuff and noticed that most rb20det owners, with basic mods, seem to claim about 130 kilowatts. I read that the rb20det red top has 135 kw and the silver top has 165 kw. Is this true? Or if some one has the correct figures post them quickly for me, i need the figures to know how much i can do to the car before i no longer can modify it on my P-Plates

autobarn do a $800 one that is meant to hook up really nice, they sell blitz for about $1500 so that was out of the question for me, give em a call.

eh, youve got a rb20, right? Im pretty sure stock psi is 10 (.69 bar) , 7psi would be 3 psi lower than stock

some one the other day said that i will need a new fuel air conroller or something if i up my boost above .75 bar. Its currently at 8.2 bar and my fuel tank gauge has just stopped working. Is this related? i tired searching for some info on them but they must be to basic a thing to find topics directly related to (47 pages of search results, looked through about half then went nuts). Im planning on upgrading to a high flowed 33 turbo soon, and was wondering if i will need this upgraded before i change turboes, because if not then i wil just crank my boost back until i change turbos thanks dudes and dudettes

If he gave you the tracking number, ring up auspost and get them to look it up. If not ask him for it. Mine came in one of those express post envelopes. Check the mailroom blokes pockets to, i work in a mailroom and its funny how easy it is to claim stuff missing, mwaha

i did try to search but youd be surprised how many topics are about boosting rb20's. Uhm air fuel controller would that go where my old sensor is, just b4 my pod? Im running .83 bar and its running fine (although rather rich since i bought it.. 02 sensor im starting to expect), what would the controller do/help do? And will i still need one if i put the 33 turbo (high flow?) on? I plan on changing fuel pump to a 32 gtr one, and probably various parts of the ignition system that will need upgrading to handle the 33 turbo. Ill go to autobarn and get one of there intecoolers that will bolt in easy. thx.. so many questions.

installed turbotech boost controller, awesome product, car much faster. Read that some people crank from 10 psi - 12 psi, (.69 bar - .83 bar) so i did that (well it spikes a lil so its at .8 bar but spikes to .82 bar in 2nd). Will running it 2 psi higher than normal dramatically decrease my engine/turbo life? The engine and turbo are in perfect condition now, so in 2 years when and if i get bored of the car, is it still likely to be running or will it be on its last legs by then, running the extra boost? If the general reply is that 12 psi is OK, then i have another question. I have 3 inch turbo back exhaust, pod filter and boost controller. What next? New intercooler wouldnt help with my standard turbo, im pretty sure so what should i upgrade? Or if there isnt really much to do to get significant kw per $, Is there a half decent turbo upgrade that will give me a significantly faster car and will still not total my engine in the long run, that i could get installed for $600-800? I have hands on and theoretical knowledge of quite a few cars/engines, but none were turbo, if i get a "bolt on" (still around the $800 mark, not installed) will i be able to figure out for myself how to bolt it on, then take it to a dyno (to get my stock ECU remapped?) or is it better to pay the extra $, get it professionally installed and tuned at the same place (or is there a place that will do all for 600-$800) Am on a budget though as im 19 and still owe $11000 on the car.

To scared to remove any pipes, hehe, worried that i will be to piss weak to reconnect it. Ill go to the place i got the tubing, tonightm and get a proper metal connector

ohh k i only half read your post, youve got a toyota engine or something, i thought you had a black rb20. Gotta start sleeping more

bought mine friday on bay got on wednesday, after a bit off fiddling with annoying small gaps and annoyingly taught hoses i got it on and wow. I used to hate the way my car had no balls after 5krpm, now i barely notice it drop all the way through to 6200rpm when i shift. Also it spools at only 2000rpm, as compared to the old 2800rpm with the pod and 3000rpm stock standard. It spikes a little bit from .8 bar - .83 bar, .83 bar being 12 psi, so ill just leave it like that. 12 psi (.83 bar) is the recommended boost to run on these engines right? chris is the wastegate setup your talking about the standard one? because if it is catkicker wrote up a good guide under the heading "installing turbotech boost controller" or something like that

yeh i have the hose, i was just trying to figure out how to hook it up. ended up putting slightly smaller hose inside the other hose to connect the 2 pieces of hose, with some clamps. The controller was adjusted rather high when i put it in though, it boosted to like 1.2 bar, ouch. Now time for the fine tuning, thx

hmm so i set about installing the thing today, but i have run into a problem. The hose from the actuator to the turbo is very short and therefore i cant even reach it to plug the controller in. I have sort of rigged up a extension for the pipe (using some clamps and a thinner piece of hose which i put inside, to connect the hoses) so that i can run more pipe off it but i cant get it clamped down due to having only about 2 inches to work with. So ill have to pull the hose off at the turbo end. Unfortunately i cant get into the end close enough to pull the clamp or the pipe. I can reach it with a screwdriver but the actual end will need some pliers and only has about an inch and a half of space. any suggestions? can post pics if needed.

I agree with mad, the original gauge is quite innacurate and i definetely recommend buying a gauge. Evil, sirmark said somewhere in that 47 page topic that the minimum boost level on his controllers will be just above your standard boost, so perhaps you wont be able to drop it that low. (although i cant tell if thats standard boost or not, i dont know 33's)

nahh, just a pod and made a partition out of 2 peices of aluminium with some heat obsorbing material in between (split pins to hold the 2 pieces of aluminium together) a bit dodgy

mm speaking of scams, check this outtt http://www.turbonator.com/ Found it on a honda civic forum (dont ask) funnily enough. Maybe the magnets made the car think that it was getting better fuel economy and therefore it did? placebo effect

heyaz, i just installed 1 of these things ( yet to add a partition for cold air) into my 32 gts-t and wow. I didnt think it would make any difference but the difference is huge. I dont know if the sensor just inside the intake had a loose wire or what but i added the pod and now i get my turbo spooling at 2800 rpm instead of 3000 rpm and it holds boost almost to 6000rpm at which stage it drops boost, instead of dropping .2 bar the second it hits 5000 rpm. Makes the car sound a like its got a BOV or something, the pod noise is really damn loud. (not sure if im to keen on it) thx 4 ur guide mad

dudee your a legend!!! Some one should sticky your post or something because other people have been requesting the same thing thanks heaaaaaaaaps

ahh hmmmmm, thanx ummm.. So then just to make sure of the location can you do me a big assed favour and circle the area, or the pipe or even just the area its in? thanks hehe http://img137.imageshack.us/my.php?image=p10101821nj.jpg http://img137.imageshack.us/my.php?image=p10101812wy.jpg

Edit: Now need help with a R32 GTR install hehe, can anyone link me? See post number 12

thanks hui, gotta get home try this out Hope i dont have to spend money buying a new hicas or some crap, its definitely electrical Took it for a drive last night, with no stereo for 15 minutes, thrashing the car, goin slow, turning alot and no probs, so ill get get my alternator checkd out at the store round the corner

ohh k i guess ill go search a workshop manual or something and try to find this "cluster" thx

didnt want to remove hicas because, well, if i remove it and put the locking kit, without the HICAS i would have no power steering, right? (being that the hicas seems to control whether my power steering is working or not)

Yeh the speedo still works. The car was fine for quite a while (been driving it about a month no problems) until the other day it started messing up. But no speed signal = power steering not work? Just that if it was a problem with sensing speed, its unusual that it works randomly and once broken can be fixed by turning car off then on. I read somewhere that perhaps its my power levels on the battery or a alternator insufficiency. Any thoughts on that? Also, what cluster do you mean?

well obviously i shouldnt have posted this in forced induction but well, i wasnt sure which other one to post it in, it is electrical but its to do with ground components and stuff. any way Basically what happens is i start the car and drive off. Steering all good, nice and light for a while, then it gets realllllllly heavy (after a random interval, usually 2-5 minutes), like as if i ran out of power steering fluid (which isnt the case) then about 30 seconds later i get the HICAS light. Then i turn the car off and on again and the steering is back to easy light steering after which it goes all heavy, then HICAS light, turn off car etc etc Anyway its gotta be a electrical issue, right? Can any one suggest anything, because i cant afford to take it to a mechanic and will drive it with no power steering if need be ;