blind_elk

Can I suggest a 15W50 oil is too heavy. Its a brand new engine - you should be able to run something like a 10W30. Shove some steel wool into your catch can - more technically "oil/air separator" - so that the oil vapour has something to condense on.

That switch turns the tail lights on.

Does the rear window washer work?

WTF? What spark plugs did you use? Gap? Have you cleaned the injectors? Shouldn't really have caused your problem, but refit the cat.

I recently replaced my speakers. I got a brand called "Hertz" from No Limit Sound in South Melbourne (nolimitcsv.com.au). DCX460 is a 6x4 two-way coax speaker for the door. A minor mod required to utilise the existing mounts. And DCX160 is a 6.5" direct replacement for the rears. (if you're not in Melb, then I believe some Autobarn stores stock them)

Yeah, something like those. I'll give them a call tomorrow.

I'm wanting to replace the pipe joiners on my RB25DET. Anyone know where to find appropriate sized silicone segments. (tried Autobarn, but they are too short). Also, the joiner from the crossover to the first pipe is a slight reduction. And one of the others is a 30deg bend (most appear to be 45s). TIA

Just went and visited my local Nissan dealer. I have a new assembly on the way! Ok, $285 later, but available.

I don't have to globe holders because they disappeared with the indicator assembly. I cut off the car side connector and replaced with spade connectors (it used foul up with moist dust). So GTR globe holders might work. I found a complete assembly on eBay, but they want $390!!!! I purchased a replacement pair of smoked lens assemblies, but they don't come with the globe holders and wires.

Driving to Adelaide recently, hit a big pothole, and spat the RH indicator assembly. Can't seem to find a replacement that has the globe holders. So after at least the globe holders, or an entire assembly (clear w/amber side repeater), for R32 GTS4

I had a similar situation with my R32 GTS4. I replaced that solenoid, but it hasn't solved the problem. So its possible the pump is failing. It seems you need to drop the diff in order to do anything that might fix this. So its important to know exactly what the problem is. Or just replace / repair everything while the diff is out.

Maybe the charcoal canister?

This is my understanding - feel free to correct me if I'm wrong - but forged pistons need to run hotter (work harder) than cast pistons so they expand more to fill the cylinder. Basically they run in a competition engine. Given that understanding, if you are only building a daily driver, why do you need forged pistons? And why do you need a 25/30 - what is wrong with a plain old 25?

Bendix DB1170 SRT - brilliant. Any temperature, STOP, no fade.

This is what mine look like:

(upside down because that's how they were pictured!) Aha! So it IS the type I need! Actually found replacement bolts that come with a flat rubber washer from EFI Solutions (https://www.efisolutions.com.au/billet-rocker-cover-washer-retainer-kit-rb20-rb25 ) - might fancy-up the rocker covers with a set.

As I said in OP, the grommets (washers) are different. I need the plain flat type that acts like a washer - the kit I originally got has the type that insert into the retaining bolt hole. I'll give kudos a call Monday, see what they can do. This is NOT the type I need:

Apologies, but not willing to hunt through 21 pages of "Stagea Parts List". I have a RB25DET from a (early, 1996?) C34 in my R32 GTS4, and I need a new Rocker Gasket Kit, including the washers.On the assumption that all 25s are the same, I got a Protorque GVC6100 kit, but it has the wrong style washers, and the gasket appears to be a bee's-dick short. Most kits don't clearly show the washers, so I don't know if they will work. I've found a Durapro GSRC3025K, but again not confident it has the correct washers (washers need to be basically flat, not the type that insert into the rocker). I contacted my local Nissan dealer, asking if they could get the correct kit if I gave them the engine number. The can only search on a VIN. There are kits on eBay, but they claim to fit 180SXs as well as Stageas / R33s / etc, so I'm dubious that they are the correct kit. Anyone done this before? Maybe give me your VIN so I can quote it to the dealer. Any help / guidance appreciated.

So, where is the accumulator?

Well, finally got new solenoid fitted - no-one said anything about needing to drop the diff! Still getting code 18, which suggests its the pump that is rooted. Anyone know if the pump is repairable / serviceable? Where I might find one (even to take apart to see how it works)?

I used Stagea diffs (4.08:1) in my R32 GTS4 after I swapped in a RB25DET from a Stagea. Simply swapped CW / pinion onto the R32 centres. Installed a speedo drive from a GT-R to bring the speedo back into line. (Front diff is still open,but then I don't have mind-boggling power - 180aWkw is enough to scare me!)

I finally got round to purchasing the replacement solenoid for the ATTESA pump (refer my post in Vic section from April/2022). So today I tried installing it - what a @#$% problem that is!. Gave up quickly, decided to see if simply bleeding ATTESA would help. Found a uTube video, watched, seemed simple enough. Had difficulty bleeding the rear nipple (can't swing a brake spanner up there), and had minimal fluid come out. So, to front, disconnect clip, crack nipple, pump works for a bit, then stops. Keep cracking nipple, pump not working. (when disconnected, torque gauge goes 60% - is that right?) So, anyone got a diagnosis? Is the whole ATTESA f*kced? Do I need to totally dismantle it and reassemble? BTW, pic of my reservoir:

Hi All, I want to get my bonnet resprayed, but I want to retain the car to use while that is being done. So, anyone have a spare bonnet to suit a R32 GTST that I can borrow for the duration? Cheers

Usually "undersize" rotors have worn below the thickness threshold. Peeeeetaaah - why don't you measure the diameter of what you have now so you will know the correct size replacement to get?

Sometimes, the timing light indicates the incorrect timing. How did you actually measure / set timing?