blind_elk

Not been playing anywhere near the inside of the footwell. Tried all 3 green relays, no difference.

R32 GTS4, RB25DET, Wolf 3D ECU Was out and about today, popped into Bunnings for about 15 minutes, came back to the car, starter goes click, click, click. Odd! Back into Bunnings, get a new set of jumper leads, back to the car, alarm doesn't appear to want to de-activate. Gingerly unlock door and open - no siren. Got a jump from a guy there, started fine, but as soon as the leads are disconnected, engine dies - won't idle, but will run at elevated revs (2k +). Didn't appear to be any more than 12V available, so suspected dead alternator. Got a mate to bring a battery, car started fine, idled fine, 13.5V. Got the car home, noticed a pump sound - it sounded like a neighbour had an air compressor going. Disconnected mate's battery - so his wife could have her car back - and the noise stopped. Re-connect battery, noise starts. I initially thought fuel pump, but on further investigation, I think it's the ATTESSA pump. It's not turning off when the engine is stopped. Any suggestions how serious this problem is?

Check the Penrite web site (turns out HPR10 is also recommended for the R33 GTSt)

The pivot socket on the throwout lever may have cracked. When this happens, the cracks open up and effectively lengthen the throw required to disengage the pressure plate.

How old is the battery? (Nissans are renowned for being extremely voltage sensitive). Have you had the injectors cleaned? (Maybe 1 or more injectors stuck slightly open by gunk). Replace the spark plugs (after you solve the current problem).

From my reading of Puhn, F: How To Make Your Car Handle, determining the RC is not a calculation but rather a construction. In the case of the A-arm: 1. (in plan view) construct a (theoretical) line through the pickup points, and project it to intersect the axle 2. Connect these 2 points to the point where the centre of the opposite tyre touches the ground. The intersection is the RC. The construction appears to be independent of the relative heights of the pickup points. a_armRC.pdf (apologies that it doesn't scan too well)

It will be difficult to show you where you need to go if we don't know where you are starting. What are the current wheel alignment settings? What springs? What swaybars? What wheels / tyres? What ride heights (centre rim to wheel arch)? Rear grip is not solely from the rear end. Sometimes you may have too much front grip. It's all about controlling weight transfer. Frankly, I put RC calcs in the too-hard basket once I saw the complexity of the rear suspension geometry. I take on board the advice of those who have already been there and done that, and trust they have come up with the settings that give the desired outcome in terms of how the car handles. But I suspect that a good book on suspension design will be able to show how to calculate the RC based on the swinging A-arm part of the suspension (the calculation will probably take account of the angular relation of the A-arm pickup points).

I understand that the R32 GT-R rear wing produces something like 120kg downforce. It may just seem like its light in the rear because the front splitter is generating better front grip. Just looked at my Nissan Race Team GT-R models, and they just have the Gurney lip thingo across the rear of the bootlid, so it would seem that might be the way to go.

I strongly suspect that Nissan haven't changed studs since whenever. As an example, the wheel nuts from my 1973 180B SSS fit my 1999 Pathfinder. And the wheel nuts that used to be on my 32 GTS4 fit the SSS. Maybe the only difference between models might be the length of the stud. But the diameter and thread haven't change since Pontius was a Pilate in the Roman Airforce.

Available 2-4 days : http://www.pitstop.net.au/products/nissan-skyline-r32-gt-r-official-service-manual/

I had something similar happen after I had the gas changed to a more modern gas. The solution was to have the a/c fan on permanently, rather than as a thermo fan.

My understanding is that the ECU had some logic built in that could work out that the car was undergoing an emissions test, and would switch over to the lean map and pass the test, and deliver exceptional fuel economy figures. The problem is that you can't have emissions / economy AND performance. People presumably bought the vehicle based on the results of the emissions test, but once out in the real world, while performance was shit hot, economy in no way lived up to the expectations of the emissions test. Clearly VW did not deliver what was promised. The shit fuel economy can clearly be quantified in $$$ terms. In relation to fuss about negative safety aspects, have a google for a chap named Ralph Nader who took on GM (I think) in a case referred to as "unsafe at any speed".

How exactly does it not start? I had an experience where the car had difficulty starting due to a clapped out starter motor.

You might have a bit more luck over at http://www.r31skylineclub.com/ Quite often, Nissan would use the same part in different models, eg I think it is the door handles on a 240Z are the same as on the 1600 (the Z handle was of course more expensive!). So it is likely that another model may use the same handle. One solution to your door locking problem (although more expensive) would be to install a remote locking kit.

Sorry Duncan. Just re-checked - flash doesn't work if relay out & lights off.

Doesn't seem to have any effect on h/lamp operation.

1) more frequent than ..... never. You get tested, get your licence, then if you're unlucky you might get tested again in your 80s. Maybe ALL drivers need re-testing, throughout their driving career. 2) Sorry, I forgot the question. No, wait - I had Weet Bix for breakfast. 3) It's not just older drivers who need to be able to turn their heads. So many ordinary drivers fail to look around before performing many basic manouvres. 4) Just because I'm paranoid doesn't mean they're not out to get me! What a ridiculous idea. (although that opinion is probably coming from the "why are they picking on me" realm). Older drivers - older than 49 WTF!! Really, the majority of "accidents" are caused by people who are basically incompetent. Too many crashes now because the driver "mistook the accellerator for the brake". And having made the mistake, are too stupid to realise it and correct it! And there are lots of younger drivers who have no idea how / when to use indicators. What next? "R" plates for drivers convicted of Road Rage? "D" plates for drink drivers?

I've upgrade the fronts on my 32 GTS4 to GT-R fronts, without any noticeable effect on brake bias. Given that the majority of the braking is done at the front, doing a bit more at the front shouldn't be a problem.

Frankly, I wouldn't trust Volvo to get it too right. I recall reading about their press release of a model feature auto emergency braking. One of the journos thought he would try it out; the car crashed into the car it was following!!!!! But really, all this gadgetry is, I believe, half the problem now. Drivers are now believing themselves to be indestructable now that the car drives itself, brakes for itself, brakes don't lock, can't lose control in a swerve, etc. Really, the only truly safe car is one with an attentive, skilled driver behind the wheel.

Duncan, RB20DET doesn't use a resistor pack. Sinista, only the coils utilise a PTU. RB20DET ECU grounds injectors through pins 101 (1), 105 (2), 103 (3), 112 (4), 110 (5), 114 (6). Pins 107 / 108 connect the injectors through the ECU internals to earth.

Don't you need to live in the state where your car is registered? Anyway, why don't you look into NSW Historic Vehicle Scheme? By my reading, its even cheaper than Tas's system.

I'm guessing that if you did away with the FPR, you would have next to no fuel pressure at the injectors. But it begs the question - why do you think you need to drop the fuel pressure? What pressure do you have now? And what do you think it is doing to the overall running of the engine?

Was it done on a dyno? Or this mob figured "this should work"? Tunes ain't tunes. Get it onto a dyno if you are going to play around with non-standard setups.

I have RB20 one - loaner only. PM me

Brake lights are much brighter than tail lights (something like 21W v 5W), so any competent driver following would be able to tell whether or not you were braking. For people not focusing on the road, it really won't matter how many brake lights you have. That said, what I did with my 32 (doesn't have that stupid eye-level light) is to clip the tail light wire to the inner 2 tail lights, so now I have 2 tail lights and 4 brake lights (I stole the idea from the 240K setup, having seperate tail / brake lights). Much simpler, just as effective.