blind_elk

The radius will be half of 114.3mm. 114.3 is the Pitch Circle Diameter - the diameter of the circle that the stud holes sit on.

But first you have to actually hit something!

I know this guy reasonably well. There are few people even half his age who can drive a car fast as well as he can. I'm not condoning what he did - it was stupid. But why all the hoo-ha over this? In Lorne a few days ago, "a 62 year old man" - not "Fred Jones, a 62 year old man" - at a speed nowhere near 170kph, managed to: not negotiate a corner mount the footpath drive through a group of pedestrians drive over an embankment and park his car on top of 2 others. He caused injuries to several people, including 2 small children who had to be air-lifted to the Children's Hospital. Where's the public / media outcry? Where are the comments from Brumby and Nixon on the intelligence or otherwise of the "62 year old man"? This "62 year old man" has changed the lives of dozens of people. But it seems that this is acceptable - it seems that everyone's attitude amounts to "oh well, s**t happens". Our "hoon" didn't hurt anyone - he simply got caught being stupid.

I know John reasonably well. There are few people even half his age who can drive a car fast as well as John can. I'm not condoning what he did - it was stupid. But why all the hoo-ha over this? In Lorne a few days ago, "a 62 year old man" - not "Fred Jones, a 62 year old man" - at a speed nowhere near 170kph, managed to: not negotiate a corner mount the footpath drive through a group of pedestrians drive over an embankment and park his car on top of 2 others. He caused injuries to several people, including 2 small children who had to be air-lifted to Childrens Hospital. Where's the public / media outcry? Where's the comments from Brumby and Nixon on the intelligence or otherwise of the "62 year old man"? This "62 year old man" has changed the lives of dozens of people. But it seems that this is acceptable - it seems that everyone's attitude amounts to "oh well, s**t happens". John Belfield didn't hurt anyone - he simply got caught being stupid.

Remember, it's only a mecahnical gauge. And it won't be perfect. The tacho reading on my Wolf handset (digital) reads a bit lower than the dial tacho in the instrument cluster (R32 GTS4). And it actually shows around +/- 50 rpm at idle, while the dial basically stays steady. Get one of the dynos to give you a comparison of what their dyno instruments say against what your dial tacho says. About the only remedy would be to pull the dial out and adjust the needle.

Ok, try putting the stone tray back on. It will help reduce the ability for air to not go through the radiator. You need to make sure that as much air as possible goes through the radiator - it's not going to cool anything if it simply slips out underneath the car. Also, consider this: your new radiator is nearly twice as thick as the factory unit. It might be possible that the air traveling through the radiator gets too hot in the front half of the fins, and therefore can't draw as much heat in the rear half, leaving the coolant only partially cooled.

I reckon you have a split in one of the hoses, acting like a bleed valve. Check them all for splits / holes.

I suggested that the timing light was showing the WRONG angle. Check it - it should be 15BTDC at idle.Forget about the cam / CAS - just get the ignition timing right. (you don't need to replace the cam or the CAS)

The sensors are located on the top pipe, near the head. They are not mounted in the radiator itself. You're running tha factory fan? And the stone tray underneath?

Not if that's the timing at idle. It's supposed to be 15BTDC. If it's only 0 (TDC), then the spark is firing 15 degrees too late right across the range. Considering that at full noise, the timing might be supposed to be 10BTDC, then it's actually firing 5ATDC. That's into the power stroke - no wonder it can't make power! The key on the exhaust cam controls where (at what angular relationship) the CAS mounts. Without the key, the CAS can only be in one position for the engine to run - any other position, and it just won't start.

What I've figured out after nearly 40 years (holy sh!t !) of driving: Step 1 - Make it stop Step 2 - Make it handle Step 3 - now, make it go. If you do steps 1 & 2 properly, you won't need to spend nearly as much on step 3.

They need to be sealed when reassembled (like a silastic gasket). Try the guys at Traction Tyres.

Maybe try getting the injectors cleaned.

Silly question, but have you checked how much oil you have? Low oil can lead to low oil pressure.

There should be 2 pins in the back of the boss kit that engage the cancelling mechanism. Either they are missing, or they are not projecting far enough to engage the mechanism.

The 'T' in "RB20DET" means "TURBO". And as the owner of one of these fine machines, I can assure you that they come with a turbo hanging off the side of the RB20 engine.

The heat range is the most important specification. As Bennett has pointed out, they can have a major effect on how well the engine runs. If you have some mods that improve power production, then the 7s might work ok, otherwise, stick with the 6s.

+1 for "did you replace the right sensor?" Also, the ECU will hold an error code for around 50 start cycles. Try resetting the ECU.

You've got a PFC, get it tuned properly for idle. It probably needs a bit more ignition timing below 750 rpm.

There's nothing wrong, that's how it's supposed to be. When the engine is running, the ECU switches to earth which causes the injector to open.

Old school trick - set up a socket on a breaker bar. The bar needs to reach the chassis rail. Socket on the pulley bolt, rotate the engine around until the end of the bar is resting on the passenger chassis rail. Now... ... hit the starter motor. No skinned knuckles either.

You may have a bent / broken thrust fork, or (less likely) a broken pedal box.

Firstly, if the HICAS light is on, that's an error, and HICAS is disabled. Back to the problem at hand. You had all 4 tyres replaced? Or just front / rear? How are the tyre pressures? Did you get a wheel alignment with the new tyres? Have you checked the power steering fluid level?

Just read the initial post again. If it is only happening on cold starts, it might be possible that the alternator bearings or water pump bearings need a shot of lubricant. When everything warms up, they are ok, so you don't get the belt screaming.

RB20DET (and presumably RB25DET) turbo is a direct bolt-on, although you will need to adapt the compressor outlet and exhaust dump.