blind_elk

That was my first impression. But you can't purchase wire with those tracer patterns in them - they are factory.If the clock resets, then check the fuse hasn't blown.

That was my thought.The rear wiper still works. But the front washer doesn't work either. Maybe it's the stalk itself.

The tensioner bearing is for the timing belt. There is no tensioner bearing for the fan belt. The fan belt runs alternator / water pump / crank pulley / alternator - no tensioner bearing. The screeching is probably due to a pulley being slightly out of alignment with the other 2. When you replaced the water pump, did all the pulleys line up? Are you sure you used the correct pump? There is a spray you can get to prevent the screeching - check out any half decent auto shop.

Just because a piece of loom exists doesn't mean it has to be connected to anything. Many models might share the same loom segment, but only some actually connect something to every plug in the loom.

You can do all 4 at once. Just let gravity do the work. Jack up the car, take off the wheels, open all 4 bleed valves and just let the fluid flow through under gravity. When the master is nearly empty, top it up with the new fluid. Allow to continue bleeding until the new fluid starts to come out the bleed nipples. Then bleed as per usual method.

Hi all, The R30's wipers just suddenly stopped working Saturday. Makes it difficult driving home - fortunately only very light drizzle, an hour earlier it was bucketting! The fuse is ok. The fusible link is ok. everything else that relies on the "timer controller" is still working. Poking around under the bonnet, I can hear this occasional "click" sound - I'm thinking it's the timer controller for the intermittent function, but the switch is "off". Any thoughts. Tx

It would appear ATTESSA isn't working. As soon as the rear end loses traction - the only reason it would step sideways in the wet - the fronts should kick in and pull the car straight. Also, how stiff is the rear suspension? Too stiff, and it will break traction extremely easily with the slightest level of dampness on the road. (Maybe some lessons in throttle control wouldn't go astray either.)

It's a new battery? You need fuel, spark, air, compression. Do you have all these things? (there are dozens of similar threads on the same problem, if you need more info)

It's not rocket science! You don't need to mark the belt at all. TDC marker on the crank aligned with the timing marker on the timing case cover. Indent mark on inlet cam wheel aligned with inlet-side mark on cam wheel backing plate. Indent mark on exhaust cam wheel aligned with exhaust-side mark on cam wheel backing plate. Install belt. Adjust tensioner.

You can only line up the CAS one way - assuming the key in the end of the exhaust cam hasn't broken off (which is the usual cause of problems). At least it's running now. Did you get the injectors cleaned before you installed the engine? Check that each coil is firing.

Then I don't think a S1 ECU will work it. You can't "just put the CAS in". The CAS has a half-moon key to align it to a matching half-moon in the end of the exhaust cam. There have been SO MANY threads on this problem.

Re: changing diffs - to avoid having to find 2 new diffs, can I suggest that you simply swap your (rear) crown wheel onto the GT-R (rear) diff centre.

$200(What am I supposed to do with a diff centre?)

Have a front diff only. Complete - centre, crown wheel, pinion, bearings. $200 neg In Melbourne, don't know how easy / costly to send interstate.

OZ Trim in Ringwood did a good job on my R30 seat. Supertrim (used to be in Rooks Rd Vermont) used to be ok as well.

Is your new engine a S1 or S2 (does it have the ignitor unit on the rocker covers)? That will determine which ECU will run the engine. Is the CAS aligned correctly with the exhaust cam? Have you got fuel pressure at the rail?

Have you considered that the ECU isn't programmed to run the engine with 14psi boost behind it?

It's not overly expensive to get the seat repaired. A better solution (more expensive, but unlikley to be as expensive as an original seat) is to fit an aftermarket seat - Recaro, Sparco, etc. You get a better seat. And, if you decide to sell the car, it will have a good condition driver's seat.

It's a bleed valve for the wastegate. It raises the boost pressure necessary to open the wastegate.

There's actually 3 G-sensors. Fore and Aft longitudinal sensors located in one unit, and the lateral sensor located in the other unit. Both units are located under the centre console glove box.

The AWD light is a warning light, signalling that there is a problem with the ATTESSA system. If you don't get the light on (other than when you initially switch to IGN), then there is nothing wrong with ATTESSA.

Check the tension on the alternator belt.

The gearbox in my 32 has just over 200k on it - synchros are still fine. My R30 has nearly 300k on it - synchros are still fine.

What's going to tell the "modified ignition system" to fire the spark?The ECU does more than simply "control ignition timing". If you are after the carby induction sound, you can run injectors in a weber-style manifold fitted with trumpets (have a look on www.efihardware.com). That way, you get the fuel efficiency of EFI with the induction "roar" of Webers.

Well, Drew (coupe72001) destroyed an engine when he disengaged the clutch because the throttle jammed full open. It's up to you, but don't say you weren't warned.