blind_elk

It's a different ratio (4.083 v 4.375). Therefore the rears will be turning faster than the fronts, causing the ATTESSA to activate drive to the fronts, and the the front will want to accelerate away from the rear. Not a good idea. I would recommend you get hold of a Stagea rear diff assembly and have the crown wheel and pinion swapped over into the GTS4's centre and housing. (The torque out of the RB25 doesn't justify the 4.375 ratios)

The sensor should be permanently heated. If the heating turns off, then the sensor will not be able to reach optimum operating temperature, and will not be able to give correct A/F indications. Might be worth putting it on a dyno for a few minutes (after the gauge has "died") and see what the A/F is.

What utter rubbish. At idle, the engine is not doing any meaningful work, therefore it is not generating substantial heat. All you are doing is burning - read 'wasting' - fuel for the sake of burning fuel.If it was such a good idea, the manufacturers would have designed the ECU's programming to do it for you.

Fuel mixture runs rich, not burnt completely, excess fuel dilutes oil. You work out what happens then.Turn it on, start driving. The engine will warm up MUCH quicker if it is doing some work. You don't need 2-3 minutes to get fluids circulating - if they aren't circulating in the first few seconds of running, then they won't be circulating 2-3 minutes later. BTW - we discussed this a few months ago!

Actually, the term is "hydraulicked".Anyway, if the battery needs to be on a charger, then it's rooted. That would also explain the crap running. Skylines are notoriously sensitive to voltages and charge rates. Give it the PC equivalent of the 3-fingered salute (Alt-Ctrl-Del) - put a new battery in it.

Water temp sensor? Air temp sensor?

I'm currently renting, but I take possession of a brand spanker next Friday. A house is, in general, an appreciating asset. And there aren't many of those investments available. Here's my maths (assumes everything constant - simpler that way): Renting, $10k per year. Thats $250k in 25 years. I have nothing, other than $250k less in my pocket. Buying, $250k mortgage, cost me $500k in 25 years. Ok, I've spent twice as much, BUT I have an asset worth $750k Given the tightening of the rental market, and the easing of interest rates, I reckon that I'm going to be even better off at the end of the mortgage.

So, it appears to be working initially, but then "dies" - is that correct? If so, then what you have described suggests that the mixture is going lean. I would suggest the fuel pump is dying after about 30 minutes, maybe overheating. What happens if you tromp it - the gauge should show rich. How far down the exhaust is the Autometer sensor? Is it heated? What ECU are you running? Can you connect the gauge to the factory sensor?

CBC (I think they are "Consolidate Bearing Co"). Word of advice - if you are replacing one side, the replace the other side. If one side is dead, the other is likely to be close to dead.

There is a locating / aligning key for the CAS in the end of the exhaust cam. It breaks. Therefore, it's possible to misalign the CAS. And if The CAS is misaligned, the engine won't start.

I have the original RB20 gearbox sitting behind a RB25DET in a 32 GTS4 - never have any problems.

There should be the slightest amount of free play with clutch engaged (pedal up). There should also be some free play in the pushrod in the slave cylinder.

Check the adjustment of the pushrod into the master cylinder.

It should be able to hold thermostatted temperature at freeway speeds, or up hills even. Sounds like a failed water pump. The fins have probably fallen off the impeller wheel, so it can't move water around.Or are you running a thermo fan? My experience is that the risk of cooking an engine isn't worth the couple of kW you get by replacing the factory fan with a thermo.

Well, from observing when I have a fuel pressure gauge attached, it takes about 1 second for the fuel pressure to come up.

They are usually rev-limited to about 7500. Crook AFMs usually limit to around 2500. There should be a tutorial on how to check base ignition timing.

I think the reason for them being there is to make sure the springs remain captive at full droop. As longs as the springs remain captive, shouldn't be a problem to remove them.

Just like dozens of others.Clean the switch.

What gear are you in? What ECU are you running? (I'm guessing a spot of pinking).

Is the vacuum hose connected to the FPR?

Have you checked the ignition timing? (I'm suspecting a slightly loose CAS.)

So how did it go? Or aren't you talking to me LOL ?

The inlet manifold. You should notice that the inlet manifold appears to have 2 inlets per cylinder where it bolts to the cylinder head.

Does your car have an aftermarket fuel pump? It may be that the O-ring that seals the fuel pump panel is perished or mis-aligned. Check the restrictor neck (where you fill) has been installed correctly. It should be "sandwiched" between the body and the fitting that takes the fuel cap.

The red-top is the early RB20. They have variable length runners, using a butterfly setup to switch between 2 sets of runners. That butterfly setup was prone to failure, so the engine would idle but not rev, or rev really well but idle crappy. Other things to consider - dirty fuel filter, dirty injectors, faulty CAS.