blind_elk

I suspect you mean "Think you're better than me" - and I certainly am, grammatically!

Most of the braking effort is carried by the front brakes. So, I see little point in fitting massive brakes on the rear. In the worst case, you will get rear-end lockup every time you apply the brakes, due to the increased efficiency of the rears. As a best case, you risk having massive pedal travel, considering the difference in volume of the 2-pot pistons vs the 4-pot pistons (I'm guessing the 4-pots are larger displacement).

It's located on the underside of the inlet plenum, near Cyl#4 runner. If you disable it, you will never cure your idle problems. You will have a permanent HUGE air leak. It can't be cleaned. It is a bi-metal strip that is heated by current to close off a "gate" valve, thus preventing air by-passing the throttle plate.

Nissan spent hours and hours and hours ON A DYNO to get the RB25 ECU working. And you think a couple of numbers randomly programmed into an ECU is going to work? If the engine runs fine on the factory ECU, then put that back on, and wait until you can get the Z32 properly tuned to suit your car and mods.

I posted up an answer for someone else within the last week! IIRC, they are DB1165. You can find them on the Bendix website if you just look.

Found this comparison in relation to using a RB PFC in a Z32: http://www.aus300zx.com/forum/showthread.php?t=271413 The injectors are also wired differently (different pin-outs from the ECU). Might be a contributor to the problem.

IIRC, VG30s have a different firing order to RBs.

You can test the gauge by earthing out the wrie at the sender. So maybe you have a wire that is shorting to earth, but somehow stops. Could simply be a faulty gauge, or a faulty sender.

All the warning lights on the panel light up? Check the fusible links (usually attached to the +ve battery terminal connection). Apply direct battery power to the starter solenoid trigger (car in neutral, handbrake ON) - does it spin?

IT IS!!!Anyway, check all the rubber hangers before the expense of getting the exhaust re-shaped.

Take it to Daniel at DJM Automotive in East Burwood - 98082590. Tell him Greg sent you. He won't steer you wrong.

Maybe a stupid question, but it's not the ABS working is it. If you are warping disks at that rate, then you must be really nailing the brakes all the time. Have you discussed it with the manufacturer (RDA)?

Sounds about right. Don't think you are going to find a way around it.

Research. Get 6 different colours - 1 for each throttle. See if any one colour works better than the others!

You said in the first post they were "all clicking away". Take them all out, get them cleaned. Just to be sure.

Is it the "inside" wheel or the "outside" wheel? Sounds like a "locker".

Yes, this will be the problem. I believe a bit of nail polish will do the trick.

Did read it. And just read it again. Cannot, for the life of me, see any reference to you having changed the fuel maps, nor the fact that you had a broken CAS-aligning key. Nor that it used to almost run on these injectors. It's really quite easy to align the CAS on a broken key. And it will not do a thing if it is even 1 tooth out. How good is the battery? It might be that you are dropping too much voltage in attempting to turn the engine over, and the ECU can't cope. Try jumping off another car.

Ok, so while you are testing the coils, they are at a different angle to when they are "installed". That might suggest a fault in the wiring to #3 coil. Have a play with the wiring to the coil while the engine is running, see if that has any effect.

My money is on the wheel bearing.

It's not supposed to be loud! That's why the thing on the end is called a MUFFLER. If other people have loud exhausts, then they are risking a canary.

These 2 statements don't correlate. Either they all work, or #3 has a problem. Which one is it?

Under what conditions does the temperature go up? What causes it to come back down?

Consider this - the injectors you have are about 2.5 times the flow rate of the base-tune. That would suggest you are pumping in 2.5 times the fuel. That means something like a 5:1 AFR. Do you really think an engine can run with a 5:1 AFR? (maybe if the fuel was Methanol)

The principles are the same. If #3 isn't working, then they are not "all fine". To repeat the several squillion threads, it's simply a matter of moving / swapping component locations to determine which part of the system is kaput.