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blind_elk

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Everything posted by blind_elk

  1. blind_elk
    Just as bad. Coz I have some RB25DET +.040 for sale.
  2. blind_elk
    Ok, might be wrong here, but I thought the circlip lived in the diff. That's why the shaft has a chamfer on the end - so the circlip can slide up and over the shaft and pop down into the groove.
  3. blind_elk
    If the fuel pump is dying, it will cause the injectors to deliver less fuel - a lean mixture.But, if you don't want to heed our advice, then don't. But stop wasting our time.
  4. blind_elk
    I'm guessing you want RB20 pistons.
  5. blind_elk
    Another +1 for Traction. You might also try Toperformance in Vermont (Koni specialists). Or Quadrant suspensions in Berwick (Bilstein).
  6. blind_elk
    It's easy to do, even with ABS. I've only activated the ABS maybe twice on my GTS4. First time was on the racetrack, shortly after I got the car. Second when I was out with a mate, and would have run up his arse if I didn't get the ABS working. Generally, I know how hard I can press the pedal without activating the ABS.
  7. blind_elk
    Put a fuel pressure gauge on it. Observe the fuel pressure when the mixtures go lean. And get the thing tuned!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
  8. blind_elk
    The ABS is supposed to "kick in and out". It is not designed to work on dirt. If anything, you want the wheels to stay locked - the pile of dirt that builds up under the tread assists stopping. Rather than remove the ABS, try learning "threshhold braking".
  9. blind_elk
    Have you confirmed if it's the coil or the ignitor at fault? Have you checked all the plugs, and confirmed no bent connector pins?
  10. blind_elk
    Are you using the RB25 coils? And I hope you are getting the ECU re-mapped.
  11. blind_elk
    Just to make it clear - you will need a FPR, you will not need to upgrade / replace the FPR.
  12. blind_elk
    Have you tried actually talking to DBA?
  13. blind_elk
    The C/R would be crazily high. No way could you run a turbo on it.
  14. blind_elk
    Depends where you are if you want a recommendation to repair one. After all, not a lot of sense recommending a place in Cairns, if you're in Launceston! It is probably making noises because the gears themselves are unhappy. It would be easier to get a S/H unit from somewhere - try any of the wreckers, either here, or in mags like Zoom / HPI. (I got a Stagea diff sent from Sydney to Melb for around $600, a GT-R one might be a bit more)
  15. blind_elk
    Look them up on the Bendix website - it will have a pic and measurements. They fit my r32 GTS4 no problem.
  16. blind_elk
    There is a locknut that stops the rod turning and "self-adjusting". Did you check the height of the new pressure plate compared to the one you replaced? Have you checked for freeplay in the thrust fork?
  17. blind_elk
    DB1220 (R32 / R33 / R34 GTR (non-Brembo))
  18. blind_elk
    1989 R32 GTS4 1999xx km
  19. blind_elk
    "Pressure Plate" and "Cover Plate" are the same thing.
  20. blind_elk
    The R33 GTS4 runs a 4-bolt rotor. If you look on the DBA website, you can find that the replacment is DBA953 (standard) or DBA953R/L (slotted). 280mm diam, 26mm thick (Fronts only, doesn't seem to be one for the rears).
  21. blind_elk
    Gearstick problem - some knucklehead left out the pivot pin that holds the gearstick in position! It probably also contributes to the difficulty of selecting gears. Take it back, get it fixed.
  22. blind_elk
    Could be a hole in the float.
  23. blind_elk
    Sorry Kaz, it's not.
  24. blind_elk
    Check for any error codes on the ATTESSA ECU. If you can't get AWD, then there is a problem, and you should have the AWD wrning light showing up on the instrument cluster. It sounds awfully like the dude has an error that he can't fix, so he's removed the AWD warning bulb.
  25. blind_elk
    Kaz, Might have one of those, but no install instructions. Will need to check once I get home.
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