blind_elk

Check here: http://www.bendix.com.au/ProductCatalogue....;FromHomePage=1 Might be a starting point to find a North American Nissan that uses the same pad.

As many of you should now be aware, some SOB tried to steal my 32 last Wednesday. He smashed the ignition, leaving part of the assembly still attached to the column. The assembly has those "shear-off" type bolts, so you can't simply grab a spanner or screwdriver to undo it. I need a locksmith to remove the remnants of the ignition from the column. Any recommendations welcome (preferably in eastern suburbs - Glen Waverley). TIA

Item: Set of ACL forged pistons and rings Condition: Brand new, never installed Price: $1000 To Fit: RB25DET Location: Melbourne, but will post anywhere (included in price) Contact: Reply here Comments: Never installed because I realised I didn't really need them if I wasn't taking the car back on the track.

On closer inspection, it would seem the SOB was actually after the car. Bloody police were useless. The SOB left the scissors he used to pop the door lock. Thought they might be good for fingerprints, but copper wouldn't even try. I've got a new ignition lock, but it looks wrong - has an extra set of wires on the barrel. Hopefully when it gets all back together, it will be bulletproof.

Is it auto or manual (big difference in what oil suits)?

Nah, those are choona.

Bat Out Of Hell Has to be!

What is it showing, then? What exactly is your concern regarding the fuel gauge display?

DOH!

Fully aware that a good tuner is an absolute "must have" for an aftermarket / programmable ECU (like my Wolf). This is the thread that really prompted me to start this thread. http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Fi...Me-t233491.html It's not clear whether or not this guy has a programmable ECU. If not, then there seem to be a "horde of pseudo-tuners or pretenders" willing to offer advice on the subject.

I see a lot of threads "need a tuner". What do you people mean when you ask for a tuner? Being a bit old-school, a tuner to me is someone who will know how to read spark plugs, can adjust fuel mixtures on carbies, play with timing, etc. Given that you can't generally fiddle with the (OEM) ECU, so you can't adjust fuel mixtures, and you can't adjust timing (you can make gross changes by adjusting the CAS), I see little point for a "tuner" in these days of "the computer controls everything". Thoughts, comments, etc welcome.

Where's the AFR graph? You probably have a leanout, and pinking is causing spark retard. Also, how well is the SAFC tuned?

Have you checked the fluid level in the ATTESSA reservoir (in boot, RHS, behind lining panel). It may be as simple as topping it up.

Globes die. You should get it lighting up just before you start the engine. If not then either it's dead, or, worse, someone removed the bulb to hide the fault.

AFAIK, the braided version is exactly the same design as the OEM.

He said the the clamps are too big for the battery. So no need to stretch them!FSTR32 - you should just get a battery with the correct sized posts - problem solved!

Yesterday, while my car was parked at Glen Iris station, some pathetic excuse for a human being broke into the car, smashed the ignition lock, so the car is totally undriveable. Fortunately the column locking pin came out, so at least the car is steerable. $132 to get the car towed home! $300 plus for a new ignition lock. God knows how much to get the barrel re-jigged so I can use the same key. Then a new alarm (the battery was disconected, and now the alarm doesn't quite work properly, although does lock / unlock the doors). So if you spot someone with severe hearing problem - the Jaycar screecher went off on him LOL (110dB at 2kHz!) - that will probably be the useless SOB. If the police ever catch him, I'm going to hang, draw and quarter the bastard. Then I'll tar and feather him. Then I'll pull each of his teeth (no anesthetic!). And then I'm going to get nasty!.

Thanks for the reply, but I was out and about, so I wouldn't have seen your post (I got my brother to log in as me to post the thread). Anyway, timing, as they say in the classics, is everything. Jack just put his truck in for service. Reason I need the tow - some pathetic excuse for a human being broke into the car while it was parked at Glen Iris station today. Smashed the ignition lock, so the car is totally undriveable. So if you spot someone with severe hearing problem - the Jaycar screecher went off on him LOL (110dB at 2kHz!) - that will probably be the useless SOB. If the police ever catch him, I'm going to hang, draw and quarter the bastard. Then I'll tar and feather him. Then I'll pull each of his teeth (no anesthetic!). And then I'm going to get nasty!.

Could someone please get Jack to call Greg on 0421331954 ??!!

It's not there to measure the ambient air temp. It's there to measure the temperature of the air going into the cylinder. Particularly after it's been through the compressor housing. Even if you have a very good IC, the air will still be several degrees above ambient.

It will cycle around 0.5V at cruise. At idle, it could do anything because of the low gas flows over the sensor. Frequent short trips will absolutely kill fuel economy because the majority of your travel time will be on a "cold" engine, and the engine is running mega rich while it is cold.

Have you confirmed it is the coils? It could be injectors, as said previously. Have you got the sequencing for the coils set up correctly? And for the injectors? Do some investigation and analysis. Is the tuner a "Wolf tuner"?

Measure the hole in your 32 where it will fit!

S1 or S2 RB25DET? Are they the coils that came with the engine?

Are you getting the Plug'n'Play model, or a full wire-in loom? Really, talk with Robbie at Wolf (contact should be on their website).