blind_elk

So, it's a "hot start" problem. Are you running the standard air box, or pods?

If you can't bounce the car, then it is likely that the springs are far too heavy. The Bilsteins aren't fully height adjustable, but they have slots that hold a circlip to support the spring base at various heights. I have mine set to the highest setting for a good "low" ride height. Have a chat with the guys at Quadrant Suspension in Berwick for the Bilsteins, or Barry at Toperformance in Vermont (Koni specialist).

I used Toll Autotrans to bring a car from Bris to Mel - cost a bit over $400 around 12 months ago. That's depot-to-depot (cheapest). You need to get the car to their depot a few days ahead of time, and they put it on the first available back to Mel.

I used Toll Autotrans to bring a car from Bris to Mel - cost a bit over $400 around 12 months ago. That's depot-to-depot (cheapest). You need to get the car to their depot a few days ahead of time, and they put it on the first available back to Mel.

If they lost their oil, then they can't work. What happens when you "bounce" the car? What do you mean by "noisy"? For around $1k, you can have 4 Bilsteins (see if SK's group buy is still on).

Information I was given a few years ago. to decrease understeer: Front needs - higher tyre pressure, taller sidewall (higher profile), more negative camber, lighter swaybar, softer springs, less weight forward.

30 psi fuel pressure is a bit low, from memory - more like 39. How did you check timing - some timing lights give an incorrect reading. Safest is to use an old-school plug lead between coil and plug, then do old-school timing.

I think if you ground the wire the goes to the sensor, the gauge should go full-scale. This will confirm the gauge is working. The problem with the heater is totally separate. Have you checked that a thermostat is installed? Is the top hose of the radiator hot when the engine is up to temperature (been working for more than about 10 minutes)?

Rememeber to take into account that the dyno run is done with the bonnet up. That allows the pods to inhale cold air from above the engine. Unlike when the bonnet is down, and they inhale hot air from inside the engine bay (in the absence of a good divider panel).

You need air flowing through the radiator for it to keep the system cool. My experience is that thermos don't work on 32s. Air simply hits IC and flows down under the car. At least with the factory-fitted engine fan, it creates a low pressure area inside the engine bay, and air has to go through the radiator.It coud also be that the radiator is too thick, and you can't cool the rear side of the fins. Have you confirmed that the water pump is still pumping water?

Yucko!

No, he would have a twin filament bulb (1 for low-beam and 1 for hi-beam). Skylines only have a single filament bulb in the outer (low-beam) lamp.

And if it is a problem, how on earth did the car pass compliance in the first place? Anyone got the wiring diagram for a Skyline. I think any Skyline would do, because my 32 behaves like that - and I've NEVER had a problem with RWCs (pink slips).

Nothing wrong with those readings. Leave the pump alone.

Pull the globe from the low-beam mounting, and show the twit that there is only ONE filament. No car I am aware of, where the lamp has a twin filament, ever has the low-beam filament active once the switch activates hi-beam.

Not much point speculating on what happened. Get the egine out, strip it down, pics of the various bits. Then we might be able to offer some theories.

Same thing. Usual one is to spray a bit of WD40 or similar near various joints in hoses. Revs will suddenly rise if the WD40 is sucked in.Check the TPS for "closed throttle" switching. Have you had the inlet manifold off recently?

Check the pins in the coil plug - make sure you haven't bent one out of alignment.

Well, you didn't tell us that. You said:"if I rev the engine over roughly 3000rpm with the clutch fully pushed down (ie. disengaged)" That suggests to me you are doing it deliberately. It sounds like it might be a dud thrust bearing.

Not yet. I'm building up in "The Rise", Tarneit. Should be in by chrissie.

You need to hold WOT until the engine is well and truly running. You don't back it off just because the engine sounds like it's about to fire. Or is having an initial "coughing fit".

Yes. VERY simple.Don't rev it to over 3000rpm with the clutch in!

Have you tried starting it with WOT?

I usually just nip it up "T"(ight) (as distinct from "VT", "FT", or "VFT")

Your boost gauge is connected / working? If it's spinning wheels, then I would hazard a guess that you have some additional power from boost happening. Maybe it's such a large turbo that it doesn't produce boost until quite high revs and loads.