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blind_elk

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Everything posted by blind_elk

  1. blind_elk
    CAS is in the correct position? Locating key in end of exhaust cam is still there? Leaking injector(s)? What is the fuel pressure? REPLACED fuel filter? Camshafts still aligned correctly (not skipped a tooth on the belt)? What spark plugs? The knock error is because of a fault in the knock sensors, not because you have knock. But it shouldn't prevent the engine starting.
  2. blind_elk
    The problem is not to do with 215s on a R33, it is more to do with using 215s on a 8" rim. I'm running 235s on a 8", and they look a bit narrow.
  3. blind_elk
    I doubt 3000 rpm is going to produce any boost. It is highly unlikely to produce any on a "free rev" (even @ 6000) . You need to load up the engine to get boost. Also, check ALL the intercooler piping between the compressor and the throttle and confirm all the joints are intact.
  4. blind_elk
    The end of the "inner" may still be in place, but is actually broken. Check that you can't remove the end piece of the inner cable.
  5. blind_elk
    Don't have to "check". Just tell us exactly what you are doing to get these fans to work.
  6. blind_elk
    The heat range of the plug is correct, but what about the reach and electrode shape. Can you compare the new plugs with the old platinums?
  7. blind_elk
    You'll find all that info on the DBA website - www.dba.com.au
  8. blind_elk
    If the original gasket isn't damaged at all, you should be able to re-use the original. Simply apply a bit of hi-temp silastic, or else muffler putty. Both should be available from any decent spare parts store (Autobarn, Repco, etc).
  9. blind_elk
    Noisy lifters? Noisy injectors? Not just pinking, anything that causes a vibration through the block.
  10. blind_elk
    What do you want / need to do? (it's not quite rocket science!)
  11. blind_elk
    Wolf - local manufacture, local (24/7) support. It will set you back around $2500, installed and tuned. In that, they keep the car for a week to get the cold starts working correctly as well. The results you will get are only as good as the tuner. So, no matter which ECU you choose, get it tuned by someone who knows the unit. All Wolf tuners (as listed on their website) are trained by Wolf.
  12. blind_elk
    The "softness" of the clutch relates to the leverage factor built into the "fingers" between the thrust bearing and the diaphragm spring. It's quite possible to have a heavy duty clutch (high pressure rating) that is light to use. If you only asked him to change "the clutch", then he probably only changed the driven plate. What did he charge you for?
  13. blind_elk
    Have you checked the "socket" of the thrust fork, where it pivots on the ball, for signs of cracking? If there is cracking, the cracks simply open up when you press the clutch pedal, and the thrust bearing doesn't push the pressure plate. Did you measure the height of the clutch / flywheel assembly and compare it to what you took out?
  14. blind_elk
    Any news from the Bluegum front (or even rear or sides)?
  15. blind_elk
    A larger slave cylinder will only make the problem worse. Is the pedal box, where the clutch pedal attaches, still ok?
  16. blind_elk
    Pretty certain that you can return them to the seller (wrecker). Under the Trade Practices Act, the item must be "fit for purpose" - clearly it is not if it can't tell you within a reasonable level of accuracy how fast you are going, which is its designed purpose. Warranty only covers "faulty" ie doesn't work at all.
  17. blind_elk
    Well, you've disabled the AWD by removing the fuse.
  18. blind_elk
    That's for ATTESSA & AWD - nothing to do with HICAS & steering. Back to the problem - how old is the battery? It could be that the battery is taking longer and longer to be recharged after starting.
  19. blind_elk
    You might like to point out to the "pink twit" that it is only a single filament bulb (for low beam). Of course it will go out when you switch to high beam.
  20. blind_elk
    First off, those aren't jacking points. The jacking points are under the side sills. Or use the gearbox mounts. The chassis rails are very soft in compression, as you can now tell. Take the car to a crash repairer. They can probably fix it in a day. Couple of years ago, cost me around $250 to have one side fixed.
  21. blind_elk
    The tacho / speedo are basically mechanical displays, and are subject tto inaccuracy through wear-and-tear. The FC / TT are electronic, and not subject to wear-and-tear. I would trust the electronic display ahead of the mechanical display.
  22. blind_elk
    If the speedo and P/S are still working, then it shouldn't be a problem with the cable. The Japanese seem less opposed to fiddling odometers (winding them back). It's possible some sort of damage was done that prevents the odometer going past 100k.
  23. blind_elk
    You can probably fix it yourself. Usually, the problem is the screw that holds the piggy-back solenoid onto the rod mechanism comes loose, and doesn't operate on the rod mechanism. Just remove the door panel, and tighten the locking screw on the solenoid (make sure it's in the right relative position).
  24. blind_elk
    And, if I heard correctly last night, the government has legislated that ALL fuels must contain some proportion (I think 2%, but will increase - Qld going for 5%) of Ethanol.Was a bit concerned that they produced V-Racing to prove that the Ethanol wouldn't harm engines - experimenting with our engines!!!! Anyway, not a problem for me, as I use Ultimate (mainly because the Citibank credit card gives me 5% rebate).
  25. blind_elk
    (as stated numerous times previously) You should be able to see the rough section in the cam where the key used to be. Some visualisation will let you align the CAS correctly. If the CAS is even 1 tooth out of alignment, the engine will not start and run. You should also note, as stated numerous times previously, that some timing lights give an incorrect timing indication (usually double the "real" timing).
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